Hm -- lifting the dizzie drive shaft out?

A wooden stick with the end shaped just a wee too big for the hole at the end of the shaft. (Pull the little spring out first to reveal the hole). Then drive the wooden stick into that hole tight, and you can lift the shaft up, rotate it, and do whatever you want with it.

When you are done, put a screwdriver in there and use it to push the shaft down, while you wiggle the stick off.

Jan

And if I have been bad . . . ?

I've clearly been bad. The wood grabs the shaft well enough to pull it part-way out, but not quite far enough for the gear teeth to disengage. Any attempt to pull the shaft higher results in the wood bit pulling loose. I'm using a pretty fat brush handle now and tamping it in firmly. It's like the top of the drive shaft does not want to get past the top of the opening in the side of the drive shaft bore - the opening that goes to the fuel pump opening. Need a more stronger grasp on that shaft.

Never mind - I got it. Needed a little more force to get the wood firmly in the hole in the shaft, and a little rotating of the crankshaft to get things loose.

The wood dowell trick should work, but I usually use a kind of snap ring pliers, the same ones that work on the crank gear snap rings. These are the kind with flat blades that expand when you squeeze. Mine are from Sears.

Remember, you don't have to take the gear all the way out, just far enough to clear the gear teeth, and also keep in mind that the gear has to rotate slightly as it comes out, just as it must when going in.

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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You also need to rotate it as you are pulling it up.

And some shafts have a wide part in it at the gears, making it harder to pull out.. but there's a section that is cut flat to provide a "window" where it can be pulled. I'm too lazy to go take a closer look of mine.

Jan

Fit as a fiddle and ready for love.

It is just one tooth off? I would leave it alone. I thought the same thing once and chipped the brass gear that the dizzy shaft meshes into. That was on my first Type I engine It still ran smooth, but I felt really bad because I had chipped that gear. Anyway, here is what I do to get that dizzy shaft with gear out. I take a new pencil, that has not been sharpened,and carefully shave off about 3/8 inch from the end all around to make it 1 mm or so smaller diameter. I stick a coat hanger down in the hole to get the spring out or sometimes I use a stick magnet. Then I stick the shaved end pencil into the hole and jiggle the shaft and slowly pull it out. There is a special tool made for just removing that shaft. jplikesm73vwbttl

Stop right there. After breaking a pencil off in the plug hole of the old engine's #4 cylinder, I'm not getting anywhere near this new engine with a pencil!

On Sat, 21 Aug 2004 16:57:57 -0700, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" scribbled this interesting note:

I used a piece of oak wood flooring. When I made this particular tool I cut it down to size, placed it in the hole until it was firmly against the gear, and I whopped it with a hammer, just hard enough to mark the end of the wood. That gave me the measurement I needed to shape the wood.

When shaping the wood I made it like a kind of dove tail. I made the end ever so slightly larger than the slot in the gear so that it takes a bit of force (not too much) to insert it into the groove. The slight wedge shape insures that it stays inserted until completely clear of the case.

In the end it is whatever works for you. This worked perfectly for me the first time. It just took a little effort to make the tool...

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

ROFL

:D

Jan