Many questions about buying < 1966 beetle - UK

Can someone please help with the following questions about buying a UK beetle. I am ideally after a 1966 or below (I think!) mainly due to the body panels. I am looking to go with the 'cal resto' look (I think that's right!) :

- What year did the front lights change from the nice sloping ones to the horrible vertical ones?

- What year did disk brakes come in?

- Did the Oval window come in RHD at all? Or are they all LHD? How rare are they now?

- What's with the ragtop models? Were they fitted as an optional extra? Are they more desirable, noisy etc?

- Are replacement parts harder/more expensive on older models like the

1966?

- When did the 'w' engine lid change to a 'semi-w' and then the horrible flat one?

- I would like to lower the car. I understand that the rear is quite simple, but the front is more difficult. I am not interested in going ridiculously low. I would like the pre 1966 wheels (without the holes) with whitewall tyres.

- In terms of engine, I have driven a stock 1600 before and it was not enough. Is it worth tuning a stock engine, or going for a 2.0l Type 4 engine conversion? I am not after blistering performance, but want something a bit beefier than the stock 1600.

Thanks in advance for help with any of the above.

Reply to
Dave Angel
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Dave the 66 is the last year of the glass over headlights (sloping ones)

Rag top modles would be 63 down were the parts are harder to find and more expensive.

57 was the last yr oval with W decklid.

you will want to go with a CB performance drop spindle disc conversion front end kit.

I would think you would be better off with a street 1776 or build a

2110 T1 not that the T4 conversions arn't cool, it just that you should beable to get all the power you need with out major changes.

Mario

Reply to
Kafertoys

I'm not certain, but I think that the headlights might have changed after '67 on the UK (and/or European) edition, unlike the North American version, which changed after '66. I'm basing this assumption on a metal T-1 model that I have somewhere that is designated a '67, has the sloping headlights, and 'non-towel bar' bumpers.

Al Adams

Reply to
Al Adams

Ah ha! That could explain things. I have spotted a 1967 bug which looks like a 1966 (and has been converted manually from 6 to 12 volt) which would leave me to believe that perhaps this could be the case...

Thanks

Reply to
Dave Angel

Regarding your question about RHD ovals: they do exist. I remember a few years back seeing the critical bits one would need to convert a LHD model to RHD from a parted-out oval at a swap meet here in the US.

As far as disk brakes go, I think that the European model T-1 came with disks starting in '68. North American T-1s retained the front drum brakes right until the end.

If you're looking for a sunroof T-1, you might consider the '64 and later metal sunroof models. Although not as sexy as the big cloth ones from earlier years, parts are a bit easier to come by (and cheaper) and, from the front seats at least, you still get a great 'open air' experience!

Al Adams

Reply to
Al Adams
67 was the change over year. the lights changed during the model run

Reply to
a-nony-mouse

Thanks for this Jan, this is exactly what I needed to know. I was thinking about the T4 route, but now not so sure. I just want something a bit more powerful, but don't want to spend =A31000's. Definately low down grunt is needed. I like the sound of a turbo in the future perhaps...

Reply to
Dave Angel

I'll chime in with some Euro spec stuff, seeing as how you are in the UK. VW's sold in the US market were not exactly the same.

1968 was the first Euro beetle to get upright headlights.

Those were only available in the 1302S and 1303S models, along with the

1600cc dual port engine. I believe those started around 73 (flat windscreed super beetles started in 71 I think, but no discs yet?)

I'm sure they did make them both ways. You can still find them for sale, but they are very desirable and somewhat rare.

Those were factory made. More desirable and rare, yes. The actual convertibles were more quiet than the steel roofed sedans, some say, because of the extra padding and no resonating metal. Some say they were warmer too in the winter, due to better insulation. I dunno.

Not really, not so much it would make a difference. Unless you go way old, early 50's and stuff. 60's parts are easy to find, even new. (Poor quality repros, usually)

Brainfart, can't remember

Dropped spindles are a safe way to lower the front some 2" or so, or was it 2.5... steering geometry doesn't change with those, so no other mods are needed. In addition, if you plan on installing disc brakes, you will need to get disc brake spindles anyway. Two birds with one stone... get disc brake DROP spindles and you get a lower front AND you can mount factory discs up front. (From a 1300S beetle, 1500 beetle, or Karmann Ghia - they are all virtually the same.) Bearing sizes may differ and brake pads may be different between different caliper models. There's one pin and two pin calipers out there.

There are countless ways to more power. A T4 conversion is expensive and requires a little more work than souping up the 1600. Each can be made just as powerful. As a rule of thumb, the T4 lasts longer and is a very strong candidate for big torque, and power up to 150hp. For power closer to and beyond 200hp, the T1 kind of takes the lead.

PARTS are expensive for the type 4, and not as easily available as they are for the T1.

Having built up both, I would recommend a T1 1600 based engine for your needs.

So now that we have limited our base engine choice to the 1600 T1, you need to decide some basic things about the nature of the beast.

You can keep the engine a 1600cc, and just make it produce more power. That means the engine will need to rev higher to make the power.

OR you can make the engine bigger, and make more power at lower rpms. This is generally more driveable, and reliable way to more power.

OR you can do both, if you get real power hungry. :D

A sensible 1600cc street engine would make roughly 75hp.

With bigger cylinders, you can get 1776cc or 1914cc reliably. Expect to get around 100hp or a hair more from a conservative daily driver state of tune. Better torque than what you'd get from a 1600 even if it made the same power.

You can also get a stroker crankshaft, those would bump the displacement even bigger, in several various combinations with different cylinder sizes. You can go all crazy and get close to 3000cc, but that's not for a beginner.... lol. Let's say around 2300cc is still relatively easy, in terms of stroker building. (Which is always a great deal more difficult and detail dependent than just fitting bigger pistons and cyls)

One more alternative for more power is Turbocharging. You can buy complete kits that contain almost everything you need, designed for a

1600cc base engine. It would drive like a stocker, until you gave it enough gas to get the turbo going, then it would make a LOT more power. Easy driveability and good fuel economy with a light foot, but nice power boost on command for when you need it.

Of course, you start craving for more power after each engine build, and you'll eventually end up with a 3 liter turbo or a Subaru STi transplant in the future with 600hp..

:D

What I', trying to say is, there is almost no limit to what you can do, engine wise.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

Your just demonstrating the old rule "How fast can you afford to go?"

Jeff DeWitt

Reply to
Jeff DeWitt

Dave Angel.. do you have 2 accounts on here?

Reply to
Andrew

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