outer swingarm bushing

Hi,

I need to replace the bushings of the swing arm of my 72 SB (IRS) in order to pass the technical revision. I need to do it asap, so I was wondering if I can just replace the outer bushings without the fuzz about the splines in the torsion bar (later with time and having passed the revision I would replace the inner one). Looks to me that I would have to remove the four bolts that secure the spring-plate hub flange, replace the bushing, and that's it.

Please correct me if I'm wrong

Ant

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Reply to
Ant
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There are actually 4 bushings to contend with per side, two at the inner allen-head pivot bolt and two on the torsion bar. And yes, you can replace the outer torsion bar bushing without removing the spring plate, but I wouldn't recommend it. If the outer bushing is shot, the inner one is too. Why do a half-assed job? It doesn't take all that long to do the whole thing.

Taking the thing apart isn't that big of a deal, I did this job last year and found it to be very simple. The biggest deal is unloading the spring plate and getting it off the stop on the shock mount so it is free from any tension. What I did was remove the wheel, disconnect the outer CV joint, then the three bolts holding the spring plate to the diagonal arm, then the inner allen-head pivot bolt(uses the same tool as the drain plug for the tranny..FYI). Now you can get the diagonal arm out of the way enough to get the spring plate off. Remove the 4 bolts on the torsion bar cover. Then put a small floor jack under the end of the spring plate and raise it slightly so you can get a large flatblade screwdriver behind it where it rests on the stop, and then lower the jack to unload the spring plate completely. Score a line on the stop following the top edge of the spring plate so you know where it was pointing before you pull it from the torsion bar, and then remove the spring plate. On my 74 super, I had to remove 4 or 5 fender bolts and pull the fender out a little to get the spring plate off. I don't know if your 72 will have that problem or not.

I used the red urethane bushings and found the ride to be much improved between the new bushings and new shocks. You'd be surprised how much of a difference it makes. If you use the rubber bushings I have been told you should coat them with talc. If you use the urethane, you need to check the weld that goes around the tube part of the spring plate. Put the urethane bushings on the arm and push them all the way against the spring plate. If it's not flush(meaning there is a high-spot in the weld) you need to clearance the weld with a dremel tool so that the bushings sit flush. Be generous with the special grease that comes with the bushings. The inner pivot point bushings I just levered out with a big screwdriver and pushed the new urethane ones in place. Piece of cake.

Talk to John @ aircooled. I got all the bushings for the front/rear suspension from him in a combo kit.

Chris

Reply to
Hal

Thats pretty much it. Just to be safe though use a large C clamp to press the plate against the housing once you've jacked up the car and have the plates resting on the stops. This will help prevent any disasters and help make replacement of the torsion cap easier. Good idea to spray the bolts (front and back) with some penatrating oil beforehand and a make sure you rethread them very carefully. Mark Detro Englewood, FL

Reply to
Mark Detro

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