Perfomance Engine

Hi Guys

I'm looking to build a stronger than stock engine. I am looking to get between 75hp and 90hp. What sort of rebuild will I need to achieve this? Will a 1776 bore with ported valves with a stock cam generate 75horses or must I move to a bigger size? I want to keep the revs under 5500 as I'm looking for this engine to last so I would like to keep the stock cam unless there are any other suggestions out there? Initially I'll run a centermount carb but later I plan to move to twin carbs.

Thanks in advance Regards Kevin

Reply to
Kevin
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centermount

Most hp/$ would be a 69*94, could give you your goal even with stock heads, needs a different cam though....

Ps. You can build a stock size 1584 to 126ps/hp, it has been done before..... Take a look here:

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J.

Reply to
BergRace

Reply to
jimt

Yes a 1776 with a mild-ish street cam will get you there, in the 90hp region.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

A Type 4 will do this also.

check out

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T.

Reply to
MN AirHead

centermount

Thanks Guys

It would be awesome to put a type 4 in there but sadly they are like hen's teeth here! The only concern I have with 94mm pistons is the extra heat produced I live in a hot climate temp often above 30C!

When you say a mildish cam, is that something like an Engle W100, or W110? I'll probably settle for a 1776cc then!

Thanks it is always a pleasure to get advice from the RAMVA experts! Regards Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

Yes, I have one too. 2 liter with a street cam and dual 40 Dells. Should make around 130hp, reliably. Not a screamer, but there's good useable power. Built it for a bus (Which is why I wanted a torquey compromise instead of high rpm screamer) but it's currently pushing my convertible around.

Jan

MN AirHead wrote:

Reply to
Jan

1776 and Engle 110 and dual 40's with near stock heads (light porting, no polishing, complete valve job, minot combustion chamber work, and HD single springs. Bolt type rocker shaft.) and 8.5-9:1 compression ratiois an excellent package where all parts work well together, and you get plenty of very useable power and awesome torque. It will last you a long time too if you do things right. (no cutting corners, invest on pro balancing, weight matching etc.) Redline would be around 6-7k depending on a few things. No pint in revving much past 6500, no more power to be found up there, the power curve will be on it'äs way down by then. No overheating even at constant 70mph freeway runs with just a T4 oil cooler in place of the original dog house cooler. (easy mod, and no more oil leak worries than with stock cooler.. no extra plumbing there.. I do however strongly recommend full flow oil filtration which will bring two external oil lines.. use good quality stuff only. )

Jan

Reply to
Jan

What Jan said.1776,110 cam,Webers.Add a good exhaust and a 009.Tried and true,almost classic.Type 4's are awsome but expensive.Steve

Reply to
Ilambert

Thanks again

I'll let you guys know what I eventually get. Probably around December or January!

Cheers Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

There was a two part article in Hot VW's magazine a couple years ago where they did some dyno tests of various configurations of Type I engines. I tore it out and saved it. I'll try to dig it up scan it and e-mail it to you.

Reply to
Brian Turner

Regarding carburetion - what about the dual weber 34 ICT setup? Too small? Or just the single weber progressive? I am wrestling with this issue, I am building a 1776 also, w/ engle 110. The $400+ entry fee for the 40s is keeping me from finishing the engine for now, but I have a good progressive sitting around...should I just use it for now and upgrade the carburetion later? Would it suck that bad?

Reply to
Charles Myer

Hi Charlie.See the thread re:Mechanic says my bus makes no sense.About the pros and cons of this set-up.I gather that a single Weber carb can be made to work,sometimes,in some climates,at some altitudes,BUT it ain't easy.Steve

Reply to
Ilambert

I suppose it could be made to work, but the engine really loves a pair of 40's.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Nice to know that my question has triggered enough response to make it useful for others. Anyone on this group motivated enough to put together a "Collective Wisdom" or Frequently-Asked Questions?

I bet that my question would have been there, and saved bandwidth.

So many questions!

One, for example, about getting replacement bits, like headlight switches, was kindly answered last week. The respondee said that any good VW parts supplier could order one for me. Which, for a newbie, triggered a couple more questions that I was too shy to ask, like "What's a good supplier? Pep Boys? The VW dealership 40 minutes away? Or do I need to schlepp all the way downtown to some industrial neighborhood and stand in front of a counter until some sullen youth with a scrawny goatee gets around to me?" Or, (even better), is there someplace online where Gen-u-ine VW bits can be ordered? The drive to downtown is ugly at best.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

.....................I'm not in California but even if I was, I'd keep ordering from Aircooled.Net. They've never messed up an order or sent me a crappy part.

.......here's the link:

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................They're in Salt Lake City which ought to make shipping pretty fast and inexpensive for you compared to those of us who are on the other side of the country.

Reply to
Tim Rogers

seconded, they/he also are quite good about offering individual pieces for fixing what specifically is broke, as opposed to places like wolfsburgwest that tend towards complete rebuild kits.

Nothing against wolfsburg, they're great too, but when the bank account is a three digit number saving a couple bucks is a big help. ;)

Reply to
Seth Graham

...how the hell do you manage to save up so muchh?? ;-)

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian
1.Stay far from the dealer.At least around here.The parts man sayeth,and I quote,"Oh,nobody fools around with that air-cooled crap anymore."2.There are lots of online sources that can help you,some with tech lines.3.E-bay and Samba once you know what you need/want(small difference really)Enjoy.Steve
Reply to
Ilambert

Who has three-digit bank account numbers??

Jan :P

Reply to
Jan Andersson

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