POR 15 Questions

That's how it sticks best. Rough, bare metal. Preferrably a little rusty. If teh metal was nice and shiny, it won't stick. They aslso sell an entching product to "prime" new metal surfaces before applying the paint itself.

Note that POR15 isn't very sandable after it cures (and certainly not before, LOL), so it would not work very well on body panels you plan to show people. It would be best left for pans and underside of car in general, maybe interior.

Jan

Jeff,

You might want to consider trying a product called Zero Rust

The company that makes Zero Rust seems less interested in promoting the magical mystical properties of their product, and more concerned with making and marketing a quality rust-proofing paint. They sell it in a variety of sizes and colors.

In the past I have recommended buying this product through J.C.Whitney. Recently I noticed that they had raised the price of a quart to about $24! You can buy it direct from the company for half that, $12 per quart, $36 per gallon.

Try it, I think you'll like it!

Al Adams

..............I've switched to ZeroRust as well. Everything that you say is correct, in my opinion. The cyanide based compound in POR15 is very toxic to the lungs and I actually developed an acute sensitivity to it a few years ago. For those who feel that they must use POR15, I'd recommend that they use a brush rather than a spray set-up and also make sure that there's a LOT of ventilation in your work area.

So other than the nasty chemical aspect (isocyanates) to POR-15 and supposing that zero rust is equal in rust prevention, are there any other advantages to using zero-rust, or stated another way - what's the prep issues with zero rust (have to get to bare metal, marine clean, etc). Thanks. - DB

................Scrape away loose rust. Clean off any oil or grease residue. Brush or spray it on. Won't cure completely for several days, weeks if the weather isn't warm. For bare metal, rough up the surface with a sanding disc or red 3M pad or whatever, clean off any oil or grease residue, apply it. No primer or etching chemical like Metal Ready is needed. It's a high solids alkyd enamel that has to cure a lot longer through evaporation compared to POR15 which has a hardening agent (isocyanate).

Interesting. So, essentially the same stuff, less nasty hardening ingredient and doesn't require metal ready. hmmmm. - DB

Metal ready is Phosphorus(SP??) acid, much cheaper generic stuff available.

J.