rebuilt engine NO Oil presure !

Hmmmmmmmm. You *can* have an "air lock" if the sump pickup tube is not sealed where it enters the hole in the case. You may wish to consider taking the pump cover off to see if the gears are *actually* spinning whilst cranking...

Speedy Jim

On Sat, 1 May 2004 20:37:30 +0100, "John Skeldon" ran around screaming and yelling:

if it is simply that it needs priming, try pouring new oil into the hose coming *from* the pump to thefilter...this should give it some prime... JT

screaming and yelling ??? me no too pissed !!

:)

John

I have always primed my pump by packing the gears using assembly lube grease. - Bob

On Sat, 1 May 2004 22:25:20 +0100, "John Skeldon" ran around screaming and yelling:

hehe...thats my standard set greeting...LOL JT

...STP here. =-)

...Gareth

............This is just an idea but maybe your oil is escaping from the lifters where the pushrods are supposed to be and running back into the sump. Without the restriction of running through the pushrods & rockers, your oil might be flowing too freely.

the car and i'm trying to "crank" for oil pressure. I pre filled the cooler back to the top of the engine, the Sump is full of oil , i though i'd primed the oil pump enough but i'm open for suggestions.

freely BUT nothing comes out of the pump outlet going to external filter.

Several possibilities:

You gave up too soon. Remove the spark plugs and crank longer and faster.

A little oil/grease in the pump seals the margins of the gears and helps it prime. DON'T fill it, just smear enough in there to fill the spaces between the tips of the gear teeth and the body of the pump.

You put a pump made for a 3-bolt cam into a case with a 4-bolt cam, so the pump isn't getting driven.

The holes in your pump don't match up with the holes in the case, so there's no path for the oil to get into the pump.

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Or he's sucking air. (Late pump, early case.)

My favorite was the guy who put the full-flow oil pump cover on upside down (ie, outlet to the right).

-Bob Hoover

Like Robert says, pack the pump with light grease, then remove the adaptor from the where the standard oil cooler went and pour oil down it (it goes slowly), if the pump is sealed well with the grease you should get bubbles coming back up the hole. If you take the oil pressure switch out the air will come out of there until it's full. This will prime the area after the pump, the grease will make the pump suck better and the hopefully you'll get a start on the oil moving.

I've been in this situation a few times, so I feel for your frustration.

The other way is to make a pipe that fits into the oil pressure switch hole (M10 X 1.0 I believe) then connect a hose to that pipe, put it in some oil (enough to fill the engine's galleries) in a sealed container, then put an air line into the container until the oil has nearly all gone. Now you have a ready to run engine, plus you can sell the tank you just made on eBay.

I've been meaning to make one of these for years, but never got around to it, plus now having sold my lathe, that chances are very small.

Good luck

Gaz

I made mine from a length or iron pipe and two end-caps. Welded an appropriate fitting to one cap and left an air-hole in the other. Always hold the tube upright when filled with oil.

http://63.230.74.177/ghia/MVC-464F.JPG To prime the pump, connect the line to the output fitting on the pump cover, fill the tube with oil and turn the engine backward.

To pre-oil the engine, connect the line to the return fitting, fill the tube with oil and apply compressed air. Instant oil pressure.

Max

Err, do not pack it full of grease. Just "coat" the gears.

All I do is dip the gears in motor oil just before assembly. Oil pressure builds up reasonably fast when I turn the engine over without sparkplugs. All teh bearing surfaces and cylinder walls also received a light coat of motor oil during assembly. Lifters and cam are heavily coated with either STP, thick vaseline, or cam break-in lube. Depending on whether they are new or I'm reusing used parts.

Jan

right i'm sorted now ... put some grease into pump and took off the oil pressure switch. Cranked till oil pissed out of the hole, put switch back in and cranked again ..... Light went out !!!

Oh Joy !

John

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Or do like most engine-builders do and use a garden sprayer. Cut off the spray wand and connect it to a barbed fitting that matches the oil pressure switch. Keep pressure on the sprayer until you see oil at all eight push-rods. If the engine does not have the HVX mods you'll have to turn it over a few times to align the cam-followers with their oiling port.

Once the push-rods are full it's safe to start the engine.

Also see my earlier post on a handy pre-luber.

-R.S.Hoover

Nice! That's genius.

I'd enter the hose from the pump output (full flow) to fill the external filter and cooler and open the pressure switch as the air leak.

;-)

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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