Rust converter

Well, I'm in the process of removing all the old body filler on my '72 SB and cutting all the rust holes out down to good metal so I can weld new pieces over the holes in the body and I'm confronted with the follow questions:

1) Should I treat all the rust underneath the body and frame before welding all the patches? (Seems to me I can get to more of the underside and hidden areas by treating them before patching all the holes)

If so:

A) What is the best treatment for the rust? I've been told POR 15, Rustoleum Rust Reformer, Mar-Hyde and RustMort are all good products. B) I'm going to have the body media blasted after the patching, should I spray a primer shot over the patches as soon as I have them finished to stop any rusting or does it not matter?

Thanks in advance. H-S-F

Reply to
help-slip-franklin
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read here about some of the "rust" chemicals

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I have my own opinions from limited experience that I will keep to myself until this thread grows more.

later, dave (One out of many daves)

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

I know Mar-Hyde works very well but is flammable.

Mario Vintage werks resto

Reply to
Kafertoys

I thought that you would normaly do media blasting prior to any body work to reveal any rust, bondo and etc.

It doesn't really make sence to me to do both patching and PORing the car. It's one or another. I have used POR on the floor pans mainly because I don't have a facility to replace them and patching some of the areas is imposisible due to the location of the rust and the damage. Seems to be ok.

Anton

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Reply to
anton

Reply to
payments338

I bought Masterseries for mine. It came highly recommended off of Samba forums:

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Rust bullet was in my selection choice, as well as POR15. I have heard good things about all three of these...

Ben

63 Ghia "Der PMP"

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Reply to
volkswatson

Reply to
thelittlegreenworm

Just finished a total off chassis rebuilt 74 1200 T1, felt the only way to get rid of the rust was to remove every thing that looked faintly rusty, there is no such product as a rust converter, try as many as you like, then attack it with a powered wire brush and you will see more rust. Get the shot blasting done, apply a good primer before the bare matal can rust, and I mean in minutes, then weld in all the new bits. each time cleaning the repair and getting primer on quickly.

Reply to
thelittlegreenworm

Rust cannot advance without air, which includes moisture in most of our climates. A seal stops rust. It ain't like cancer.

Are we good with that?

Reply to
j

I have been trying Naval (Navel?) Jelly with some success so far. Of course I ground most of the rust away first. I tried without using this chemical and rust seemed to come back quickly (1-2 years) even using POR-15 and paint. I have done other vehicles using Naval Jelly and it seemed to kill the rust. I did many treatments to make sure that the treated area did not turn black anymore.

JMHO later, dave (One out of many daves)

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Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 14:17:29 -0400, help-slip-franklin wrote (in article ):

No! See below.

I've used RustMort and am pleased with the results. After treatment I applied POR-15.

Media blast first to locate rust through areas and remove surface rust. Cut out all rust through areas back to solid steel. Weld in replacement panels and apply primer as you go. When all panels are replaced, treat metal surface with rust inhibiter. As soon as the treatment dries, apply a good primer.

(POR-15 is a good product but it leaves a very hard and glossy surface that I found hard to prep for final painting.)

The most important thing to remember is all rust, body panels, cars and owners are unique; what works well for me might not work for you. Listen to all the advice you get here then do what you think is best. If it doesn't work so well, try again. If it turns out well, help others by answering questions on this and other forums.

Good luck with your SB,

L Witter

Reply to
Lawrence Witter

POR-15 can be topcoated with body-filler, normal primer or paint while it is still tacky, or before it thoroughly dries.

So if you are using POR-15 on your car body, I suggest you prime it with normal primer before it dries. Then you should be able to apply your topcoats even after the primers are dry.

Practice on some spare panels first.

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Reply to
thelittlegreenworm

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