Rust converter

read here about some of the "rust" chemicals

later, dave (One out of many daves)

I know Mar-Hyde works very well but is flammable.

Mario Vintage werks resto

I thought that you would normaly do media blasting prior to any body work to reveal any rust, bondo and etc.

It doesn't really make sence to me to do both patching and PORing the car. It's one or another. I have used POR on the floor pans mainly because I don't have a facility to replace them and patching some of the areas is imposisible due to the location of the rust and the damage. Seems to be ok.

Anton

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I bought Masterseries for mine. It came highly recommended off of Samba forums:

Ben

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Just finished a total off chassis rebuilt 74 1200 T1, felt the only way to get rid of the rust was to remove every thing that looked faintly rusty, there is no such product as a rust converter, try as many as you like, then attack it with a powered wire brush and you will see more rust. Get the shot blasting done, apply a good primer before the bare matal can rust, and I mean in minutes, then weld in all the new bits. each time cleaning the repair and getting primer on quickly.

Rust cannot advance without air, which includes moisture in most of our climates. A seal stops rust. It ain't like cancer.

Are we good with that?

I have been trying Naval (Navel?) Jelly with some success so far. Of course I ground most of the rust away first. I tried without using this chemical and rust seemed to come back quickly (1-2 years) even using POR-15 and paint. I have done other vehicles using Naval Jelly and it seemed to kill the rust. I did many treatments to make sure that the treated area did not turn black anymore.

JMHO later, dave (One out of many daves)

On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 14:17:29 -0400, help-slip-franklin wrote (in article ):

No! See below.

I've used RustMort and am pleased with the results. After treatment I applied POR-15.

Media blast first to locate rust through areas and remove surface rust. Cut out all rust through areas back to solid steel. Weld in replacement panels and apply primer as you go. When all panels are replaced, treat metal surface with rust inhibiter. As soon as the treatment dries, apply a good primer.

(POR-15 is a good product but it leaves a very hard and glossy surface that I found hard to prep for final painting.)

The most important thing to remember is all rust, body panels, cars and owners are unique; what works well for me might not work for you. Listen to all the advice you get here then do what you think is best. If it doesn't work so well, try again. If it turns out well, help others by answering questions on this and other forums.

Good luck with your SB,

L Witter

POR-15 can be topcoated with body-filler, normal primer or paint while it is still tacky, or before it thoroughly dries.

So if you are using POR-15 on your car body, I suggest you prime it with normal primer before it dries. Then you should be able to apply your topcoats even after the primers are dry.

Practice on some spare panels first.