specific endplay question....
Hello,
I'm a stupid kid who is now a little older and I have pulled my 18 year old project car out and I want to get it running for my 30 year old butt to drive. I always wanted the vw for fun and to learn about something I know nothing about: cars.
So here is the deal, I picked up a '72 super when I was 18 and I got it with no engine. I got an engine from somewhere else (from a 67 baja but who knows).
So now I'm a little older and maybe just a tiny bit wiser, but I'm still clueless. I finally have time in my life to drag the bug back out of storage and I just pulled the engine, knowing that the problem is still right there where I left it.
The engine is a 1600 DP, pretty much stock. Back before I went to college I was trying to cure a "little" oil leak. I just couldn't get it right, but that was before the internet and I didn't have a lot to go on. So I pulled the engine 3 times and replaced the rear main seal
-- that WAS definitely where the leak was coming from and I'm still sure about that. But each time I put it together it seemed to get worse. I never drove the car much at all, probably only a couple hundred miles max but I have no idea the history of the engine before that other than I vaguely recall the guy I bought the baja from saying it had been rebuilt "recently". My goal is to get the bug street legal again, and use this engine until I can build up the funds for a good replacement.
I have been doing a lot of reading (trying to get it right this time) on the internet and also supplementing with Bently, Haynes, and Muir. I started wondering if my problem might have been end play all along. Or at least once I removed the flywheel the first time I maybe didn't know what I was doing and I screwed it up then. But I know I hardly drove it at all after attempting to stop the leak, maybe < 5 miles so if my case is messed up there is a chance it can be saved???? Never know I guess without looking at it.
Speedy Jim, if you're out there this one is for you.
My real question guys is this: I can tap on the pully crank (gently) with a mallet and then back on the crank on the other end (flywheel OFF) and I can see a visible play. I would guess about an 8th of an inch but I haven't had time to measure yet.
I guess that's supposed to be bad, because 1/8 is way way way bigger than .005 +- a couple. However, I'm not sure if that's true, since the flywheel is OFF. That's my question. Should I expect some play with the flywheel off or should it be pretty tight still? I am really hoping that it's ok and I can just try to get the endplay good and tight with new shims and whatnot (~.006 or so) with the flywheel ON. I am going to attempt to use Muir's "all-thread and a gap feeler" method unless someone can recommend a better way for the home mechanic aka poser.
I think my two mistakes were 1 bad endplay and 2 seal flush with the case (not set in to the back of the groove). that would make the seal ride up on the flywheel a little. Probably not what is intended. I'm probably going to get one of those dual lip seals (not really wanting to do this again) from aircooled.
So please tell me that some play is expected with flywheel off!! If so I will be sure to get it right when I put it back on and I'll use good new shims and seals and o-rings and everything. I'll be sure to seat the new seal in good and tight with the back of the groove. I promise guys. I really do like my vw really. I'm pretty excited to pull it out again. I hated putting it away while I got my dumb degree.
Good news????
Thanks,
Chronologic