Starter wont kick in colder weather.

The following is not really bug specific stuff:

Seeing 12.5 V on a battery without load doesn't really mean anything. Turn on the head lights to make sure it doesn't drop significantly. If it does, your battery most likely has a high internal resistance and should be replaced. You can try charging it but the battery is most likely on its way out.

I've not had to do this to a bug, but on all starters you can short the two connections (one fat, one thinner) on the starter for testing purposes. When shorted, the starter should turn so make sure your car is in neutral.

If it turns, your problem is in the ignition switch or related wiring. If it doesn't turn, it could be the starter, battery or wire (including ground) between starter and battery.

To test the ground connection, hook the black side of a fat booster cable from the (-) of the battery to the body of the starter - just let the red wire dangle. if it now starts, you have a bad ground path. You can do the same with the (+) of the battery and the starter (+) but be /extremely/ careful doing so as touching the wrong thing can do some involuntary welding and do damage.

Sometimes smacking (not too hard) the starter and/or solenoid with a hammer might make it start. That's often an indication that the starter's solenoid contacts are bad.

Remco

.........I vote for bad ignition switch. Nothing lasts forever and these cars are old. I have a new pushbutton switch on the left kick panel under the rear seat where I can reach back and push it. It runs directly from the battery to the solenoid and I never have a problem now......never.

Amen bro.

And that's probably what his "snowplow" needs.

Speedy Jim

I had used that trick for years without problems.

Then I got my wife a Yamaha 125 bike to learn to ride on. Didnt start one day so a little tap with a hammer !

Still wouldnt start , so I stripped it out. Inside I found bits (lots of bits) of the magnet which had been glued to the outer casing. I had not seen one made this way until now.

I dont hit with a hammer any more just in case ! :-)

Rich

then there's the "Hard Start" solution. a ford solenoid that is "fired" from the ign. switch that then fires the solenoid on the starter. works every time.

Well, you just don't know your own strength -- Must be that yorkshire puddings you guys eat over there :)

I was talking about a kinder, gentler tap -- Just enough to shock the starter. One wouldn't want to smack the bejseesus out of the thing or ding the crap out of it. A rubber mallet is our friend.

Would that work with a busted ignition switch, though?

Well, you don't really even need to tap it at all. Just stick a big wrench up there and short the terminals so the starter spins. That vibration was always enough to jiggle the solenoid into working on the next turn of the ignition switch, in my case. Of course, that's a pain to do even in nice weather so a permanent switch or a relay is better (and less fire hazardy). :)

Yup, that might do it and mentioned that above. Smacking with a hammer is a lot more fun, though :)

I didnt hit it that hard ! Its only a litle starter on them bikes. Apparently its a common problem with that model. The point I was trying to make is how one day you might come across a similar design. The magnet was realy brittle.

As for the rubber hammer, I usualy use the wooden handle end and sort of poke at it. Or on different cars where you need a long reach a 2x2 or something.

Rich .

Hi! I had a similar problem on my 1973 Beetle. Someone recommended trying one of these hard start relay kits, so I did and it worked.

Mid America Motorworks

Hard Start Relay Kit Part 106-122 $24.99

This Hard Start Relay Kit reroutes current directly from the battery to your starter, skipping 15 feet of wiring and bad connections in the stock setup. You get more voltage to your starter for faster, easier starts. Kit includes relay wiring harness and 15 amp fuse. Instructions included.

Later on I replaced the main wiring harness and the column wiring harness. I got both of these harnesses from aircooled.net. Now it gets more voltage up front where it counts.

My wipers work like they are supposed to, fast on high speed selection. Headlights are brighter. No more engine almost stalling at a stop with the brake lights on, turn signals on, headlights on, and wipers on.

Cycl> I have a strange problem with my 74 super. Its used mainly in the

this is the problem with the "hard start" relays.... the above says it all.....wiring and "bad" connections...those connections and bad wiring are not fixed with a hardstart relay....bandaid on a bullet wound...

A starter relay isn't necessary anyway, there is one built into the solenoid on the starter.

The + side of the battery runs to the solenoid(/relay builtin), the

- side of the battery goes to the frame.

A wire runs from the solenoid to the ignition switch...

When you turn the key, + voltage runs in wiring harness, through the switch, back through the wiring harness, to the solenoid.

This is a small ammount of current. This activates the relay inside the solenoid.

The relay handles the big current required by the starter.

There are the following connections to check if starter isn't working:

1)+ and - on battery. remove, clean, wire brush. reinstall 2)ground cable where it connects to frame. remove, clean, wire brush 3)+ wire that runs from battery, to wiring harness. This is the thick red wire that runs from battery to fuse box. 4)in the fuse box, it runs to the ign. switch. 5)out of the ign switch, back to the solenoid 6)remove + wire (between battery and solenoid) from starter 13mm nut, clean, wire brush 7)remove + wire from solenoid (between solenoid and front of car), clean and wire brush

the starter circuit is very simple and easy to trace.

adding a starter relay is redundant and un-necessary.

Why energize a relay, that energizes another relay?

As an aside, from this. I have an immobiliser fitted on main ignition and starter solenoid circuits. This adds yet another bunch of connections and relays, which has caused the clickclick business. I will be adding a hard start relay, as its my daily driver & dont have much time to have off road & re do the existing wires & connections, plus its cold and dark & wet now, until March !

James

My main question has to be how many times to you use the "Plowbug".

We have a mercedez for the winter time and if it sits too long that battery has no charge and it goes bad.

I know in winter you probably use it for more than an hour at a time but what about the "off" season?

also a real simple idea is during the winter pull the battery and put it on a milk crate in the house.

this'll keep the battery warm until you want to put it in the bug.

I'm in cali and i've only had that problem a few times when it's iced over. I dunno if it'll help...but it couldn't hurt.

Raul