Tech: 72 SB, can't remove the 36mm rear wheel nuts!

Maybe try some heat? If you figure that you are 200# at the end of the 5' bar, that's 1000 ft/pds. If you are bouncing at all, we're talking about serious force. If you can find some new nuts, maybe you can split the nuts to get them off using a dremel or other suitable cutting device. Any type of hammering action may damage the bearings. - Robert

I did mine a couple of months ago. Used heaps of CRC, heated with little butane torch. Busted heaps of tools. In the end I bought a cheap breaker bar, with a pipe over the handle, which twisted apart. I kept smacking it back into shape, used some old screwdrivers as pins (old pins of the breaker bar twisted out) and it finally came loose. I was about to give up. I'd probably stick it back together and take it in to the mechanics and get them to loosen it if I was doing it again. Probably take them 2.5 seconds and save a lot of tools. I wouldn't want to smack it with a hammer either. Andrew

I just did my rear seals and brakes this weekend. I waited until the torque meister tool I ordered arrived. Took less than a couple of minutes to get each one off. It was well worth spending the 60, it won't be the last time I use the tool. Just had to run to autozone to pick up longer lugnuts, the stock ones are too short. They should supply a couple.

Heres a link to the tool:

For years I've used an empi 36 mm anvil with a 1/2 fitting for a breaker bar. I tap the tool with a 12 lb maul while my son puts force on the bar. It has always worked and I never have had any problems. I bought it from JC Whitney and paid about 10 bucks for it about 12 years ago. Works for me............Dennis

I used a very well fitting socket a large bar and and 4 foot scaffold pole.

Spike

Torquemeister was the name of the original tool. No longer made by its original maker. When the Taiwan clones came out on the market, he could not compete with a product that was 1/2 the price of the original. [people shop by price first!] He said the clones were cheaply made and broke when used.

I have never seen one break yet.....

here you go:

Anton

It's unlikely, but did the cotter pin get cut off on both ends and the remainder is still inside the nut?

i use a 24" pipe wrench...position so you pull up...apply parking brake or have a helper hold the brake pedal down...never had one i couldn't get loose with a pipe wrench...i *think* there was one one time that i had to get the

Easy fix for $20 Drove over to the local Caterpillar repair shop (any heavy equipment place will do) Walk in waving a $20 and ask if anyone can brake them loose. Guy picked up an impact gun (1 inch drive +) and popped both loose and then snugged them back so I could get home. In and out in 10 min. Might need two $20's now. That was a few years back.

Derek

Randall Post wrote in news:wMUdi.2062$W snipped-for-privacy@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net:

Nope, pulled both out with little effort (so far the easiet thing I've done)

Robert wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@p77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:

Not to sound stupid, but how much force are these put on with? I've rebuilt many cars (even some British) - but I've never seen anythiong like this...why have them so freaking tight?

innews: snipped-for-privacy@p77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:

My book says 253 ft/pounds.

innews: snipped-for-privacy@p77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:

On my last bug they were stuck too. I put some penetrating oil on there, tapped them with a hammer a little. Did that for about 4-5 days. They came off easily with a socket and cheater bar after that.

I've found air tool oil a better penetration oil for lots of stuff (worked will on marine radar system) to the point where I would soak spindle nuts for a week as a SOP.