Update on camper engine problem.

Okay. Not meaning to be rude, so please don't take it as such. People told you to confirm that the valve stems were actually moving up and down as the engine turns over. In this post you say, "...checked valves and rocker arms, fine." Does this mean they are nice and pretty or that you checked that they were going up and down?

The reason for checking that is to verify that the camshaft is still connected to the crankshaft as in the timing gear is still attached and not broken. The distributor shaft is also driven off the cam, so you could check that the rotor turns while the crankshaft turns, maybe easier than confirming the valves are moving. The oil leak beneath the distributor could be from the oil pressure light sending unit. (at least that's where the T4 ones are.)

As it is very odd for zero compression on all 4 it is most likely something that is effecting the valve train on all 4. It seems to me, however that at least one of them would have the valves closed and you would have something indicated. Could it be that the valvelash adjustments were waaayyy off and that it ran long enough to burn big enough notches in the exhaust valves that they can't seal at all? You said it was running rough but it was running. Maybe it was rough because the timing gear was coming loose (I THINK although I have not been inside a T1 motor that the gears are rivetted onto the camshafts) - someone else can clarify this and support / dismiss my line of thinking on it.

-BaH

Not taking any offense, don´t worry. Like i mentioned, i cranked the engine with a bobbejaan wrench and yes, rockers and rods are moving up and down as they are supposed to be. As is the distributor, i took the cap off. Valves burned on all 4, i doubd it, this would be very weird. However, i will check it. To me, the engine has all required to run, but is not, and not a single bit of compression. Very weird but there might be a logic explanation. Yours

Bart Bervoets "Busahaulic" schreef in bericht news:doAFc.184312$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

Verify the valve clearance when the valves are closed for each cylinder. You don't have to measure the gap, just feel if there is some gap (looseness) of each rocker when valve is closed.

You could also inject compressed air into each spark plug hole (while that cyl is TDC on firing stroke) and listen for air escaping either at exhaust pipe or at the oil filler cap (ring leakage).

Speedy Jim

When you turned over using the starter, did the crank actually move? (Could be that you have no resistance to the starter because it's not engaging.)

Did you check valve timing? Might be that the PO tightened them down so they don't close.

More daft questions, but does the compression tester work ? James

It was tight valves causing the problem. The engine runs now, however, too hot. Timing is fine, carb seems ok for me as well, fan spins and i replaced the belt. What else can i do to drop engine temp? Note that all tin is present and original.

Bart Bervoets

What does *too* hot mean? Oil temp deg C.

Are the cooling flaps *actually* opening?

What road speed? What outside temp?

Speedy Jim

Hopefully the valves didn't get burnt. Any popping or sneezing at low revs or idle? Either through carb or exhaust.

Jan

Engine too hot too touch anywhere, pully generator so hot that belt starts melting.

Where are those? Sorry for being ignorant, but never heard of cooling flaps.

Even at idle.

This is africa, in winter, 25 celcius.

Bart Bervoets

Jan has an article here:

Jim