Well and truely up the creek?

Tales of the Wonderbus. Summary so far: alternator belt broke while driving, engine overheated. #4 cylinder will not hold compression. Also has pencil bit in it.

My trained chimp (me) pulled the engine and removed the head. At first, all four valves looked fine, no reason for trouble found. No marks along cylinder walls.

However, closer inspection reveals a hairline crack in the head, in the land between cylinder #4's two valves.

Now that the head is off, I calipered the bore diameter and stroke and confirmed that this is indeed a 1776 engine. So off the shelf 1600 heads won't work.

What are my options? To date, I have:

  1. Drive to Mexico and buy a new Puebla-built 1600,

and maybe,

  1. Call VW Paradise and ask them if they have a replacement head for this engine. They are the folks that installed it for the PO a couple years ago. Their workmanship is dubious.

Requesting suggestions on how I should proceed. I don't know if this crack means dead-head or not.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot
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Take a picture of the head and post link here. You will get more educated guesses if the crack is fatal or not.

I had this kind of cracks on all the cylinders, visible between the spark plug hole and valve. At least I was told that this is necessarily no problem on stockish engine. Still is running fine.

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Reply to
Olli Lammi

Well, considering that VW Paradise reads this group, you might find some complications when you try to get a head from them and you were not the original purchaser. I don't recall how you know for certain that VW Paradise built the engine. How do you know?

Reply to
jjs

;...did you adjust valves before you removed head??....hmmm....if I remember right you broke pencil attemptiong to find TD and did not. The crack is not good....but assuming it is a hairling crack will NOT cause zero compression cold. If the valves were tight to the point to not closing that would cause sucvh a condition. In short...the crack is a problem....but not *the* problem. It is important to determine the actual problem before reccomending repair options. You *can* get a pair of heads opened to a 90.5 bore from many different head porters/ businesses. But if you have more serious problems that simply a bad head they need to be addressed. I would put the head back on....no need to bother with niceties such as pushrod tubes...but do torque it in proper sequence so as not to stress the case. I would then adjust the valves....and turn the engine over by hand....if you have compression (you will feel it) then your valves tightened from teh same stressful overheating that ccracked the head.....if you still have no compression and the valves were intact and seated when you checked take a good look at the cylinders. You NEED to absolutely determine the cause of the lack of compression before proceeding with this engine...if you decide toi go with the puebla engine and give up on the 1776....and feel like shipping...... (looks out at baja desperately in need of a decent engine case...)

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

I have a receipt that came with the car showing that the PO bought the engine from them, and the words "VW PARADISE" are stamped on the case.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

Hi Gareth,

Sequence of events is:

  1. No compression in #4
  2. Broke pencil off in attempt to move #4 piston to TDC.
  3. Stared blankly at broken pencil end.
  4. Checked valves, very tight.
  5. Removed head
  6. Removed pencil (mashed kinda, never would have extracted it through plug hole)
  7. Noted crack.

See

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for picture of crack.

  1. Will re-install head per your advice and check compression.
Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

..typical DP overheating crack. That will not cause 0 compression....

..Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

Mike,

small cracks between the valve seats are normal and no problem. Cracks in the exhaust port, or from the valve seat to the plug hole are NOT OK.

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is agreat deal for those on a budget. John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

...BTW I was poking around on that site....pretty cool, but you will never get me to buy anything with PCB surface mount tube sockets...just not a good idea for longevity...though I'm sure an amp of that sort doesn't get kinocked around like a guitar amp....still old preferences die hard. =-)

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

Ain't surface mount, they're through hole, and in over 20 years of manufacturing tube gear (for home use) with thousands of preamps and power amps having been sold, I have never, ever had a tube socket come loose. But for you guitar players (I'm of the bass guitar persuasion) I would certainly use chassis-mount sockets. You guys are ANIMALS!

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

John, I can't tell from your site - are those heads bored for a 1776 engine? I'm looking at a bore of 90.5mm

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

\

....::looks down at furry knuckles::..... moi???

=-))

...Gareth (who just got two Carling SPDT switches in the mail today....ohh happy day....eyes iron on corner of desk)

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

Yes.

John

Reply to
John Connolly

Hand-cranking of engine showed Cylinder #4 would go up to 30lbs, then the pressure would drop before I could crank it around to #4 again. Hissing sound from oil filler neck indicated leakage going down past piston. This was with a dry cylinder.

While adjusting the valves to do this test, I also attempted to adjust the valves on Cylinder #3. The front valve (front is FRONT) adjusted nicely, but the rear valve is odd*. Can't back the adjusting screw out far enough to open up any clearance, and the ring? washer? the end of the valve compression spring? seems to be in the way of getting the feeler gage in there. It's like the end of the valve stem is somehow recessed into the end of the compression spring, yet the overall length of the valve has increased greatly. Does this make any sense?

For #4, I don't want to wait for Harbor Freight to get around to deliver the leakdown tester I ordered, so I'll drop by Pep Boys tonight and see if they have one, or some other means to shoot compressed air into the plug hole. I'll also figure out how to get some oil around the piston -- I wish I had some handy oil spritzer to shoot through the plug hole.

Probably get some piston ring tools, too. If #4 continues to leak my next step is to pull the jug and look for damaged piston or rings, I reckon.

*Which valves are intake and which exhaust on this engine?
Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

...you likely do not have the pushrod seated in the cup of either the lifter or rocker....loosen up the rockers and wiggle the pushrod...see if it sets into place. You are not goin to get full pressure by hand cranking...it went up to 30? well thats no longer 0..sounds like the valve adjustment tightened when it overheated....also common (as is the crack)

..Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

kmiddle two are intake (underneath the intake manifold(=) outer two are exhaust,../....ummm....next to the exhaust pipes ;-)

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

On Wed, 26 May 2004 15:48:55 -0700, "Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" ran around screaming and yelling:

*ahem*..."

these). These are a great deal for a low-buck performance engine. Price is per PAIR (2 heads).

JT

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

As far as tough amps go,I would have to nominate my early 70s ampeg VT-22.Vw content:I used to haul that hundred pound extremely loud amp around in the back of my 71 super beatle.It sure would have been a lot easier to get that thing in and out of a bus.

Reply to
john

Interesting -- when I clicked on the link this afternoon it was a blank, no details, item. I had to click on "Add items to your order" to even see they were heads.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

"Next to the exhaust pipes . . . " Well, I'll be danged if that don't make sense.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

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