Will an external oil cooler help my 69 bug go faster?

I was just wondering what would happen if I put an external oil cooler in my bug. if it would do any difference or better performance. will it help a lot?

Reply to
69vwdude
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you are kidding, right?

Right?

Jan :)

Reply to
Jan

No there will be no change in performance but it will help protect your engine.

Be nice Jan

Reply to
Kafertoys

The *most* likely outcome is that it will leak oil....

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

LOL

Actually it can even HURT the engine. I'll give you folks some time to figure that one out. (Run a few Google searches in Ramva to learn more)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

-- I was just wondering what would happen if I put an external oil cooler in my bug. if it would do any difference or better performance. will it help a lot?

Nah... Just some extra plumbing to get stopped up with. Doing an engine rebuild and blueprinting the engine (to even more exacting specifications than even VW had the budget for), as well as making sure ALL cooling tin (including cooling flaps) are installed, sealed and working will help tremendously. Maybe the other volks on this board will disagree, but I consider putting in a 69MM counterweighted crankshaft a part of blueprinting the engine.

I am betting that the distributor is an 009 distributor and that the original stock distributor is long gone. Replace that 009 with a brand new SVDA distributor.

Here's something non-stock that you can improve your engine with: Replace that ancient technology Points and Condensor in your distributor with a Points Replacement kit from Pertronix or Compufire. Even better, supplement that with a CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition). I have the older Tiger CDI, but I am not sure if that is available anymore for 12V cars. I guess only the Mallory unit is available but more expensive. But with this upgrade, you get a hotter spark, better fuel burn which leads to more power AND cleaner exhaust. Pretty cool.

-GE

Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client:

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Reply to
geoffers

I agree with everything. The CW crank is highly recommended if you rev past 5500 a lot.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

this is what I get for not reading, what I was thinking was just adding an external oil filter to help protect the engine. my bad go ahead and slam away Jan

Reply to
Kafertoys

Yeah, it looks like the original poster has about $150-$200 wanting to be spent seeing as how external oil cooler kits cost that much. IMHO, that would be far better spent with a Compufire or Pertronix points replacement kit and especially a Bentley manual along with a few videos from

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Highly Recommended? Haha, how about saying you are FORBIDDEN to rev anywhere near 5500 if you don't have a counterweighted crank inside. I am thinking of all those forces caused by all that imbalance being thrashed around inside the crankcase and beating on those poor bearings and case.

Anyways, I would save up for that engine rebuild. I like those bugmevideos (cause I'm a visual learner...ya know). Taking care of a 30 year old car sure ain't cheap. Or any car for that matter. For me, living in a country like Japan (or any country where public transportation is more widely used) made me realize how much not having to take care of a car really made my wallet more flush with cash..

-GE

-- I was just wondering what would happen if I put an external oil cooler in my bug. if it would do any difference or better performance. will it help a lot? Nah... Just some extra plumbing to get stopped up with. Doing an engine rebuild and blueprinting the engine (to even more exacting specifications than even VW had the budget for), as well as making sure ALL cooling tin (including cooling flaps) are installed, sealed and working will help tremendously. Maybe the other volks on this board will disagree, but I consider putting in a 69MM counterweighted crankshaft a part of blueprinting the engine. I am betting that the distributor is an 009 distributor and that the original stock distributor is long gone. Replace that 009 with a brand new SVDA distributor. Here's something non-stock that you can improve your engine with: Replace that ancient technology Points and Condensor in your distributor with a Points Replacement kit from Pertronix or Compufire. Even better, supplement that with a CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition). I have the older Tiger CDI, but I am not sure if that is available anymore for 12V cars. I guess only the Mallory unit is available but more expensive. But with this upgrade, you get a hotter spark, better fuel burn which leads to more power AND cleaner exhaust. Pretty cool. -GE

I agree with everything. The CW crank is highly recommended if you rev past 5500 a lot.

Jan

Reply to
geoffers

On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 07:07:52 +0300, Jan Andersson ran around screaming and yelling:

until he posts "how do i install a hard start relay"? JT

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

LOL

I'm done with this one, for now... ;)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Excellent videos, I can recommend. I have the first 8 of them.

I've taken them up to 70 on the street, repeatedly, for years.... no abnormal bearing wear.

Our race engines use them sometimes, and go up to 8-9k. at each race, several times. I don't think the revs drop below 5k at all during a race. The 10k engines nowadays have CW cranks, and they make them for the lesser engines too. But not everyone. Grabted, these engines aren't built with longevity in mind. :D

Try maintaining 5 hobby cars :(

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

hehehehehehe yup, then it's open season again ;)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 07:13:56 +0300, Jan Andersson scribbled this interesting note:

You only have five??? You have to get out more!:~)

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Reply to
John Willis

Go for extenting the doghouse and put a T-4 cool in place of the T-1. Some guys say they get a 30f drop on a T-1 car. GO to my site and check out the engine photos. There are kits also available by Gene Berg but My manual shows you how to do it Free if you can get a T-4 cooler.

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Joe Cali

Reply to
Joe Cali Next Generation-usa

I actually have 7, down from 10 cars since January.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

The instructions in Joe's book are Dead On, can't go wrong. I highly recommend. I do this to all high perf Type 1 engines I build. That's the only cooling mod they need.

I did it to my T4 too, which now lives in my 66 bus and runs cooler than the engine ever did when it had factory cooling. Whole engine cooling system was modified to upright cooling, with the aid of Joe's book. I saved hundreds of bucks, but then again I did everything myself. I strayed from the plans in the book in that I modified the shroud to make a bend, so that it blows air down right between the cylinders on both sides of the engine. ;)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

On Wed, 07 Jul 2004 03:18:06 +0300, Jan Andersson scribbled this interesting note:

We feel your pain. Trying to cut down 'round here as well!:~)

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Reply to
John Willis

I must be a slacker. I can barely keep One maintained. :o) Bill Berckman

67 Beetle
Reply to
Bill Berckman

On 07 Jul 2004 04:45:04 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comSPAMOUT (Bill Berckman) scribbled this interesting note:

Who said anything about keeping them maintained???

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Reply to
John Willis

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