740 strut tube disassembly - please help!

The only way I've ever been able to get these off is with an impact wrench, that makes quick work of it.

First, are you using a big vise? One key it to keep the tube stationary otherwise the effort is just going into moving the tube about instead of moving the nut.

As I remember, I used a very large pipe wrench, pulling on it while tightening the vise until the nut gave way.

It could be your efforts have actially compressed the nut enough to actually make it toghter. If things get desperate, there is always the Dremel and a cut-off wheel. Cut about 2/3 the way through the nut (possibly in more than one place) and then use a good, sharp chisel in the groove to break it off. You could also gring through the top edge, all around the nut, so that the top of it falls off, then remove the cartridge and deal with the rest of the nut.

As you stated, since you have replace nuts, destroying the existing nut seems like the way to go.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

I used a mig welder and welded a large nut, 1" to the top of the gland nut. Just the heat from welding the nut broke the bead and the nut came off easily.

On another note, I got a strut insert from Volvo dealer and a gland nut wasn't included. Anyone know these gland nuts can be found?

"Randy G." wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I have a medium size vise , 4" as I recall. It is burried but I will unearth it and give it a try. I realized it was difficult for my helper to hold it steady while I used 2 pipe wrenches. I have an 18" pipe wrench and a tube I can add for a bit of extra lever arm.

I don't have a high opinion of my skills with a dremel tool, I may get experienced if it comes to that.

Thank you for your reply! Open to other suggestions/ideas too

"James Sweet" wrote in news:KyfJe.7634$sv.3781@trnddc08:

I wonder what the tool that fits on the impact wrench looks like for this "nut"? The nut is about 2" in diameter, and has 4 small notches at 0,

90,180, & 270 degrees and there is the center pin from the strut sticking out of the middle of this "nut" about 4". Is your suggestion refering to a nut the fits this description?

Thank you for your reply also Open to other suggestions/ideas too

My cousin use to own a Honda car repair shop. The Hondas had sealed struts that were one piece- that is, the strut tube WAS the shock, and when it needed replacement you had to buy an entire strut. Koni (and others, I suppose) came up with a replacement cartridge like you are installing, but to use it you had to remove the guts of the old strut. Becasue the internals were under spring tension, the way they did it was to position a garbage can under a bench grinder. The mechanic would aim the strut towards the can while grinding the end of the strut off (where your nut is). Eventually enough of the strut end was removed that WHAM, the end of the strut popped off and all the guts (spring, valves, oil) would be expelled with great force into the trash can. It was exciting to watch.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

snipped-for-privacy@ernies.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

You are the second person who has told of the vast benifits of having and using a welder to solve this problem! I do like your idea of a large conventional nut welded to the existing "nut". I could cut down the length the center rod of the strut to make it possible for a deep impact socket to grab the added nut and use an electric impact that I have to take this odd congomeration of nuts off.

Regarding the need for a replacement nut, I would sure try the dealer and make sure you speak to the most expierenced parts person you can, Maybe call more than one dealer. I would expect that they can order them, sure hope so. I purchased inserts made by sachs. They are from germany and included the nut. They muct know by the time you get the old nut off you will not want to, or not be able to put it back on.

Thank you for your reply as well! Open to other suggestions/ideas too

"Randy G." wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Funny you bring this up, The first strut I am working on has no pressure left, much oil has been forced out, some on my brake caliper and flexible lines - which I will do what I can to clean up.

I am wondering about the other side which has not leaked. Did Volvo in the old days put an insert in the strut tube or did they simply build the parts right in the tube as you point out that honda did? I ask as I am wondering the best way to handle the strut that is pressureized as it will be next?

I would think from a manufacturing and repair point of view the insert would be simpler, but may cost a bit more in the begining.

thanks again

There's always the "Moron's Impact Wrench." Lock the tube in the vise. Attach a large vice grip to the nut. Hit Vice Grip with large deadblow hammer. For holding the tube in a vice- wrap it tightly with a towel, and tighten slowly until it is held enough to not turn. You may even be able to place the tube so that some stornr protrudence on the tube locks it on the bench to keep it from turning, and use an assistant with a strap wrench to further hold it from spinning in the vice... Or take it to a suspension shop and pay them to remove the nuts....

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

"Randy G." wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I am have access to a ride today, sunday, for sure. Monday when shops are open, my access to a ride is less certain. I hate to feel like I have given up and have a shop do it, but that is something I have considered and contine to keep in mind.

Do you know, on an original from the factory strut, will I find an insert on a 90 740?

I find the best way to loosen the central nut holding the shockinsert in the strut is to loosen it (DON'T remove it before you have compressed the spring!) with a large (30-40")pipewrench while the strut is still in the car. (suspension at full droop) Loosen the brakehose support, and you can swing the complete stut outwards while still attached to the lower suspensionarm.

m-gineering wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@m-gineeringpunt.ennel.nl:

Thanks for the suggestion, I will attempt that on the second side.

What I am finding now, on the side that is off the car and is now in a vise is that the flange that can be gripped by a pipe wrench is so thin (approx

2.5mm, 0.1") that it does not stand up to the force that is put on it with the pipe wrench, which was happening prior to being in a vise too. What this material simply does is yields and changes shape, or breaks a little bit off.

So at this point it is rather distorted. I am off to get the use of a welder and some large hex nuts that will fit the over the strut pin and still fit the largest socket I have, and buy a new socket if I need to.

May have to buy a welder some day, have wanted one for ages, maybe now is the time.

The rest of the process has been manageable for me as a first timer doing struts. I have removed all the other parts in the past around the strut base, like the caliper, rotor, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Boy I do like those tie rod end pullers!! Position it, snug it, and within a turn the tie rod leaps out, simply wonderful. Sure wish that this silly strut nut would..........

For a good review of procedures have a look at :

1) The strut insert is a replaceable item. 2) I know of five methods to remove the top retaining collar. All of these methods require that the strut tube be clamped securely in at least a 4" bench vice (using mild steel protectors on jaws): a) Use Volvo tool with the four notches that engage in the collar. b) Use 12" to 16" pipe wrench (with extension pipe if needed). You will have applied top quality penetrating oil for _a_few_days_ beforehand. c) Heating the collar area with a torch. A propane torch is acceptable, it just takes a long time. Let cool to room temperature and repeat three times. Now do b). d) Use a pneumatic cold chisel on several of the notches in the collar. This is what the Volvo service manager used many years ago on my 1975 Volvo 240 strut. The vibration helps break the rust bond. e) Weld a large nut on the collar as mentioned already. This basically provides for a better grip on the collar, and the heat will also aid in breaking the rust bond.

If none of the above methods do the trick, then a workshop will most likely not be able to remove the collar. In that case, you will need to buy a good, used strut, and transfer the bearings, rotor and caliper from the old one.

The collar will be destroyed in the removal process. That is why you always have to install a new one, assuming that the inside threads at the top of the strut are not damaged by rust or mechanical deformation. I find it amazing that your dealer did not supply a new collar. I buy parts on-line from FCP, and the inserts i have received always came with a new nut for the top of the insert stem, and a new collar for the strut tube.

I have used methods b) and c) successfully on a number of occasions. I reinstall the collar with anti-seize compound, and torque it with a 14" pipe wrench with the strut in the vice. There is little chance of damaging the strut tube as it is made from a very high grade steel. While the strut is out on the bench, clean it up, apply Zero-Rust paint, and spray paint it black with a good quality paint. Also, check the water drain hole(s) in the lower spring dish, and clean out if plugged. To minimize the chances of the collar rusting into place, it is essential to keep the bellows that cover that area in good condition.

/ John

I agree up to that point...

If the above procedures do not work, it is still very possible to cut the collar off. A Dremel is indespensible for that. Use the Cut-off Wheels (these are thin, red, cutting wheels- about one mm thick or so). At high speed I have used these to cut locks, drill bits, and once cut a stripped wheel nut off a karman Ghia 's front wheel spindle. it may take three or four of teh wheels until you get the hang of it, but the wheels come in little tubs of 25 I think. FULL FACE PROTECTION is a must when using these for you as well as anyone in the vacinity (within 20 feet or more!). They al;so throw a lot of sparks, so fire protection and precautions am also recommended.

I would cut the perimeter of the collar near the top like opening a tin can of peas to get the cartridge out, then cut a number of slots down the sides of the nut until it can be removed with a chisel. Take care not to cut the tube. Clean the threads with a power wire brush and repaint with a thin coat of a good rust preventative paint.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Dude! A decent wire welder will cost a $300-400 or more. A Dremel will cost around $70:

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

newtovolvo wrote in news:20050806221915.449$ snipped-for-privacy@news.newsreader.com:

Now reporting back to the group on my progress. I continue to work on this during the week but am not able to do so full time like a weekend. I did get one side done. I went with the welder approach. Yes, it does cost more than a dremel tool. I now have a list of things to repair/make now that I have a welder (justification/rationalization?). So for me, I think it was the best choice. Out the door price with a welder can be a bit costly so I am not suggesting that everyone get a welder. Lucky me, I learned to weld ~20 years ago and found that I could make welds that are strong and considering it is the first time in many years that I have welded, don't look horrible either. I did 2 short practice welds for a total of 1 or 2 minutes on some scrap to get the hang of this wire feed welder. I had never used a welder of this type before, I do like it.

I ended up welding a large hex nut, (it was a 1.0" diameter thread & 1.5" across the flats), on to the "gland nut". Then used a portable grinder to cut through the center pin of the strut so that I could put the socket that I could get over the hex nut. I could not find a socket deep enough to go over the pin as it was, so I cut the pin. It appeard to be very high end steel and I will try making the cut off piece in to a punch. It may not have all the right qualities for it, but why not try it. Wear your safety glasses till replacement eyes become available in your size and color!

With the strut in a vise and I let the electric impact tool have it's way with this new hex nut welded to the strut nut. I first tried the pipe wrench on the big hex nut with the strut in a vise and even with a hammer on the pipe wrench, it was not a happening thing for me. In just a 10-20 short seconds the electric impact tool had it apart. If I was not going to be working with a big spring and spring compressors that would have been the moment to celebrate! Out came the old insert and in went the new! some anti seize compound on the new nut, tighten, and it was on it's way back in the car. While doing this work I also did replace the tie rod end and the ball joint on that side and will do so on the other side too. To anyone doing the ball joint or tie rod end thing, do yourself a big, big favor, and rent/borrow/purchase a puller. These are often available under the general name of a pitman puller (which I used for the ball joint) and a tie rod end puller for the tie rod end. With these pullers, once the nut is off, within seconds, these parts are off, literally leaping out of their tapered mounting points, at least they did for me. My wife was shocked how quick it was compared to the last time when I used the pickle fork. The puller is far superior in effort (or lack of it) and time.

I did carefully disassemble the bearing in the top of the strut (very easy to do) and repacked it with bearing grease. It had grease but was clearly dry. I know it does not move much, but grease is the least expensive thing on the list so I packed it.

I will severely limit the driving I do until I get the other strut done this week or weekend, and the front end aligned as soon as I am done. I put old snows on the front that I was "running through" this summer as they are too worn for winter use, but still have legal tread. If they get ruined now it is no loss at all to me. The snows will be replaced with new ones soon.

With one side done the drive is vastly improved. I certainly had a learning curve on this strut procedure ( i am sure the second one will go much faster) and am very, very grateful to all who replied with all your kind suggestions and helpful advise and encouragement. The people who populate this group put it at the top of usenet. I can not think of a better group. Thank you all for your willingness to help a total stranger. I hope I can do the same for others on subjects that I know a bit about. And thank you all for helping me to keep my rear wheel drive Volvo on the road for what I hope will be many years to come.