broke bolt

I have an 87 chevy 4x4 with manifold bolt broke off in the head very back left hand side. Will

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U R so screwed......
If you have the skill of a dentist and the right tools (right angle drill, cobalt drills, tap and die set, and some good Karma) just maybe you can get it out
But, if you're real lucky, with the use of reverse cobalt drills, it might come out easy
Worse case...breaking off a drill inside the head, breaking off an "easy-out" (why they call 'em that, I'll never understand) or drilling off center
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bad news spray the broken bolt first with a good penetrating oil and let it soak for hours. you have to buy an " easy out bit"(reversed threads) and a drill smaller that the broken bolt.one that fits the easy out bit. then drill into the bolt with it about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. then use the easy out that is smaller than the bolt, but slightly larger than the drilled hole. thread the easy out into the hole(going backwqrds from the normal direction) and when it grabs the bolt, hopefully it will back the bolt out. spray the broken bolt first with a good penetrating oil and let it soak for hours. good luck. old john

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curdog wrote:

Can you WELD ???
if so get urself a 3/8 NUT.
now take 7011 rod and weld the nut to the bolt stud un the HEAD VIA the center of the BOLT.
Wait 45 seconds for the weld to cool, and then use a Wrench on the NUT to remove the BOLT..
This is the method we use since 1939 at Delduca's welding in BURTON Mi .
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good idea if you are able to get access to the shoulder of the bolt...
I've done this before too, works good if you have the access.
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Elbert Clarke
elbert.clarke@**adelphia.net
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You will likely have to remove the head to get out the broken bolt.
I have worked as an Industrial Mechanic (Millwright) for 32 years and can tell you that welding a nut on will get out the broken bolt. The heat breaks the bolt free especially when it is broken off in cast iron. Just as soon as the red glow fades you can try the wrench on the nut and then you will be a believer :) It has never failed when I use this method.
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Gordie
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Just wondering, is this a safe practice with an aluminum head too?
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On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 19:26:09 -0400, "SBlackfoot"

Sorry, I can't answer that as my experience only is with steel bolts broken off inside cast iron. Someone else may be able to help.
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Gordie
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in the same sentence you say "have to remove the head to get the bolt out" then welding works everytime.??? old john
Hello, The! You wrote on Sun, 28 Aug 2005 20:07:46 -0400:
??>>>> now take 7011 rod and weld the nut to the bolt stud un the HEAD VIA ??>>>> the center of the BOLT. ??>>>> ??>>>> Wait 45 seconds for the weld to cool, and then use a Wrench on the ??>>>> NUT to remove the BOLT.. ??>>>> ??>>>> This is the method we use since 1939 at Delduca's welding in BURTON ??>>>> Mi . ??>>> You will likely have to remove the head to get out the broken bolt. ??>>> ??>>> I have worked as an Industrial Mechanic (Millwright) for 32 years and ??>>> can tell you that welding a nut on will get out the broken bolt. The ??>>> heat breaks the bolt free especially when it is broken off in cast ??>>> iron. Just as soon as the red glow fades you can try the wrench on ??>>> the nut and then you will be a believer :) ??>>> It has never failed when I use this method. ??>> ??>> Just wondering, is this a safe practice with an aluminum head too? ??>> TNB> Sorry, I can't answer that as my experience only is with steel bolts TNB> broken off inside cast iron. TNB> Someone else may be able to help.
With best regards, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net. E-mail: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net
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snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net wrote:

u can access the bolt thru the WHEEL WELL ( remove the front tire !)
or remove the FRONT fender..and u will not have to buy HEAD GASKETS & Manifold gaskets

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Can you stand on your head, nod and put down the helmet, then strike and hold and arc inside the threaded hole on a small nut without taking off the head? My experience is in industry as I have told you all. Physically, MOST do-it-yourself welders can only hold their own on the flat so it makes sense to put the job in the best possible position. Also, you have to see what you are welding so how do you suggest seeing this particular bolt straight on while you weld? I was NOT suggesting welding under the nut to whatever happens to be left of the bolt. Stick the rod inside the nut.
Poke fun all you want. Try it and be a believer.
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Gordie
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"The Nolalu Barn Owl" <&#103&#111&#114&#100&#105&#101&#64&#110&#111&#108&#97&#108&#117&#46&#111&#1 10&#46&#99&#97> wrote in message wrote:

out"
While I agree with most of what you say, in my experience, there is no advantage to being able to see inside the nut while welding. Especially on a small nut. Just place the nut, use a stub rod, and weld in a tight circular motion. I've done hundreds of them.
Dave
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Well, you had better do "his" because after he started the thread he hasn't said a word. Maybe he is not as experienced as you are?
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Gordie
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SBlackfoot wrote:

yes
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We do it all the time on alum. heads...................
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wrote:

are you talking about the passenger side or driver side...
either way you may end up removing the head to fix this depending where the bolt actually broke.
One hard lesson I learned... do not put any real force on the small ease outs... Use the smallest drill bit you can to get a hole started in the center of the bolt and keep going up in drill bit sizes until you have a fairly large hole relative to the size of the bolt. Put your ease out in and tap with a hammer (not real hard) then apply smmoth even force to the ease out, to see if you can move the bolt. Be very careful here...this is were it gets to be a real pain in the ass.
ITs going to be a real bad day if you break an ease out in the bolt. Because ease outs are harneded metal and they are about impossilbe to remove once that happens.
Get some good drill bits, and a good set of ease outs. By the way ease outs are not just left hand drill bits.
The most important task is to get a hole started in the center of the broken bolt, square with the hole. Of course this is easy to say and very hard to do. Also it depends on where the bolt broke and even if you can get in there to drill.
If you have any doubt....take the intake off and most liekely you'll have to remove the head. If you are able to do so.
Its very easy to make the problem worse.
Ease-outs have saved my #$$ a number of times, but I did break off an ease out in a bolt one time, where I used to much force on a small ease out and it broke clean of even in the bolt I was trying to remove, needless to say I have a few choice words to say.
Expeience goes a long way in this type of work, ask around among your friends if you have neve done this to see if you can get some help.
--
Elbert Clarke
elbert.clarke@**adelphia.net
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Hi Will Mebbe you can drill the hole for the easy out, then heat the bolt/hole if possible, before trying to back it out gently with the easy out? Don't know if the heat could hurt anything else....if you concentrated it on the bolt only....the welding sounds the best, but everybody doesn't have a machine. Pete

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There is no possible way to weld the nut on with the head still on the motor unless the motor has been removed. I have looked at mine in the driveway. Once the head is in your hands the welding machine is within easy reach no matter whether you own one, borrow one, rent one or hire a welder.
The bolts usually break off near flush. Put the nut over the broken stub and weld down through the hole in the nut joining the stub to the nut. When the nut cools until the glow is gone try the wrench.
--
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Gordie
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