These instructions appear doable. I do change my own oil and own torque wrench and metric sockets. The dealer did suggest a manual transmission fluid change.
As the value of the car, tax-wise, continues to diminish, I am a little more willing to try things on my own to maintain the vehicle. The main risk is to be sure to apply a [penetrating oil to assist in loosening the bolts it seems. Would my local Autozone/Pep Boys have the required washers and/or what are the proper diameters?
Would these instructions apply to my 1994 GS-R 5 speed manual transmission?
I am a /little/ confused on the MTL. The above page suggests Mobil 1 is an acceptable substitute. Is this true? 5W30 OK? Located in Louisville, KY and winters are not too cold. Maybe 0 degrees a few days but normal cold in the teens.
"T.H" wrote in news:VcmdnYY-jv27rinXnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@insightbb.com:
Always a good idea.
NO! No penetrating oil is needed!
The bottom bolt has a 3/8" square hole in it. You need to use a pick to remove as much or the dirt from that hole as you can so the ratchet's
3/8" square drive will engage fully. If it slips and rounds off, you wil be AWFULLY sorry!
The upper (fill) bolt is a regular 19mm socket.
Tightening torque for the lower bolt is 29 ft/lbs. The upper bolt is 33 ft/lbs.
For the cheap price (about a buck apiece), get the proper washers from the dealer. The drain washer is the same as the oil pan bolt washer. The fill washer is a lot bigger and has its own part number. I just did mine and can't remember the part number, but the dealer will be very familiar with it.
Pretty much.
Space is definitely short. Draining is easy. Filling is not. The fill method suggested is OK, but you need to make 100% certain of two things:
1) that NO dirt EVER drops into the funnel, and,
2) that the funnel is well ABOVE the fill hole. The higher the better.
A third point is that the car should be prefectly LEVEL front-to-back and left-to-right. You can use a carpenter's level to ensure this.
You'll spill a bit as the oil drains out of the fill hole once the proper level has been reached, so have an oil-change pan under it.
Also, if the fill hose isn't quite all the way into the fill hole, oil can dribble out early, leading you to erroneously think that you've filled the tranny properly.
No no no no no to all of that.
Viscosity and mineral/synthetic has nothing to do with it.
Honda DID used to recommend ordinary 10W-30 motor oil, but motor oil has changed dramatically since then. The advent of OBD-II around 1995 resulted in a severe reduction in various traditional motor oil anti-wear additives. The reductions were done in order to allow catalytic converters to meet new government longevity regulations. The reductions also, unfortunately, meant that ordinary motor oil no longer possessed the proper qualities for manual transmission usage. That's why Honda developed their own MTF. MTF contains exactly what Honda wants to see (better than even the older motor oil, actually).
Honda knows the chemical composition of the metals and plastics used in their bearings, synchros and gears. Honda MTF has very specific additives particularly meant for Honda's own quirky designs. Genuine Honda MTF is the ONLY proper stuff to use in Honda manual transmissions.
"T.H" wrote in news:9dadnfPOvOsORSXXnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@insightbb.com:
I use the door sill plate for the front-to-back, and the rad support for the left-to-right. If the bubbles in the level are reasonably close to the middle, that's good enough; it doesn't have to be perfect.
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