I have a 2001 Acura 3.2 cl and about three weeks to a month ago my car
would lock and my memory seats would move to a random position when I
start up the car. Then the other day I try to start my car and it
wouldnít start so I jumped it and brought it to AutoZone to have the
battery replaced but the guy at AutoZone tested the battery and said
it was fine and it needs to be charged. I then brought the car home
and hooked it up to a charger to charge overnight. Unfortunately the
charger that I have charges batterys at a very slow pace. I let the
battery charge for about 12 hours and it seems that my car still
struggles when I start it. Now when I start the car my indash cd
player goes into the mode where I have to enter a code and all preset
channels are erase along with my memory seats. In addition, my locks
still autolocks and struggles when I start it, and when I lock the car
with the remote the lights on occassion blinks to indicate a lock or
unlock and there is no beep sound. Now the car still has issues
-I donít think itís a fuse cause my clock is still retaining the time
-The battery is suppose to be good according to the AutoZone guy
-My alternator is suppose to be fine cause someone said that with bad
alternators if my car is on and I unplug the cables from the battery,
the car should shut off. But it doesnít shut off
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS WRONG.
-Can it be that my battery canít hold a charge?
-When off, can there be something that is draining the battery.
ANYONE WITH ANY IDEA PLEASE HELP.
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A classic for hidden battery drains is the glove box light - you can remove
the glove box bulb to see if it helps.
I think the battery is bad, in spite of the test. If it is a few years old
(especially if it is original) you will be ahead to replace it now rather
than wait until it gives more trouble.
Please don't remove the battery cables with the engine running again. That
test was no big deal 40 years ago, but modern cars have powerful alternators
and vulnerable electronics - it can cause a lot of damage.
This is indeed a horror story, the only thing I might add is that lots
of the problems you mention are software-controller types of problems,
i.e, chips...... it may be that these chips are voltage sensitive,
although this kind of problem should go away once you start the car,
since the alternator provides more than adequate voltage........ still
I think it has something to do not with a single chipset, but rather of
a more universal nature, ergo, my voltage solution... note that a weak
battery will not display the normal 12 volts, but perhaps 11
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