Squealing and rubbing noise while turning after replacing rotors

All acura experts,
I recently had my rotors on my 2004 Acura TL (6 speed manual) replaced by a friend of mine. I have the Brembo brake calipers in the front. We
purchased the Powerslot premium rotors to replace my old plain one and installed it. But since my brake pads had aroung 90% left(practically new), we did not replace it.
As per instructions we took the car out on a spin for the first time with the new rotor. Since the rotors were slotted, they were noisy(like a train) but the noise went away after we tried to break-in the rotor several times. But, I can hear a rubbing noise on the left side when I turn left and a squealy noise on the right when I turn right from the front wheels and this is driving me nuts. I dont hear any noise when the car is moving straight.
My brakes are not covered under factory warranty( thats why we decided to do it ourselves). I want to get rid of the noise. Can anybody help me by pointing the right way to diagnose and rectify the problem? Please...
Thanks in advance.
Nash
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Oh, the joys of aftermarket parts.
Sounds like the rotors may be too big in diameter and are contacting the pad slide shims or the mount bracket. Check the rotors' perimeters for signs of polishing and scraping.
--
Tegger

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I had verified the rotors to be of same diameter before installing and the holes match too. One problem was..the rotor fitted snuggly on the screws and I had to tap it a little with a wooden mallet in the center near all holes to get them in. But I am sure i did not make any impressions or scratches on the rotor while doing that. Anything else you think could be wrong??
Nash
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Aha! A new development. When you say it fit "snugly on the screws", you must mean the holes in the rotor did not line up with the wheel lug bolts. That's very bad. And VERY aftermarket.
Are you sure the rotor is actually, really and truly, FULLY seated on the hub flange? It should clang home when you install it.
Mike the rotor "top hat" thickness while it's off the car. Install the disc again all the way as far as it will go, put the Phillips screws back, then mike the clearance from "top hat" face through a hole to the hub face. Are the two measurements identical? Might be tough to measure this for lack of clearance.
Mike the diameter of the inside of the rotor where it mates with the hub, then mike the hub diameter. The hub diameter should be ever so slightly smaller. If the rotor is smaller than the hub (even by a few thou), the rotor won't fit properly.
Is the rotor's center hole bigger or smaller than the hub's center lip? Is there a chamfer on the inside of the rotor's center hole where it mates with the radius on the hub lip?
A non-fully seated disc (or a wheel with rust on it) will cause slight movement while cornering that may be heard as noise at the wheels.
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Tegger

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An idea!
Put the rotor back turned 90 degrees from the position where the Phillips holes line up. You can't put the small screws back that way, but you can use the lug nuts (finger-tight) to hold the rotor in place. Now you can mike the above-mentioned dimension.
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Tegger

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...using the screw holes in the rotor. Forgot to specify that.
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Tegger

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OK will try that today evening and let you know. Thanks a lot Tegger. You rock!
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Weird! I have to tell you...my powersteering oil hose was leaking and since i had warranty i went to the dealer to fix it. I spoke to him about the rotor noise also and I told him that I put the powerslot premium rotors..he looked at it and said that they are not the right rotors for my car...and the most weird thing is that he claims my car is a type S. I bought this car from a private party and as per the previous owner and other docs...it is a regular 2004 3.2 TL with 6 speed manual. The mechanic says that 2004 6 speed are considered type S and they carry thinner rotors. I have never heard abt that...is the dealer trying to trick me? do you know? please help me..
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Check the VIN with Carfax;it will tell you if the car is truly a type S. Or call a different dealer.
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Jim Yanik
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I forgot to mention...I have the Brembo four piston caliper in the front..
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If you jack the wheel just off the ground, can you very easily spin it by hand, and does it keep spinning for a bit after you stop pushing?
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Oh man!!! i jacked my car up and spinned it...it did not spin freely and I touched the inner side of the rotor....it was so very damaged...had a gutter that ran all around the rotor which was abt half a centimeter deep..thak got it did not damage my brembo calipers...i finally removed them and replaced my old rotors..which are still pretty good....but am getting brembo blanks now..
Powerslot does not carry rotors for AcuraTLs with brembo 4 piston calipers...
Thanks all for helping me out...Thanks Tegger!
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Nashbk,
Let me tell you something: you will not experience any better performance from those aftermarket components than you would from the factory parts.
Aftermarket /looks/ cool (way cooler than OEM), especially through your open-spoke wheels, but in the long run you will not be happy with their function.
If you had a deep groove in the new rotors even with your low mileage, something was dreadfully, horribly wrong. Dump the aftermarket stuff and put the factory stuff back on. That includes those 4-pot calipers and their mounts...
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Tegger

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Nashbk wrote:

---------------------------
You may have forgotten to check and _lubricate_ the slider pins that allow the caliper to 'float' as the pads slowly wear down. See all the helpful stuff about brakes at www.tegger.com
'Curly'
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Like I said earlier.. I did not change my pads...so I did not dismantle my caliper...Should the slider pin be lubricated when you change the rotor? I did not want to mess with the caliper...so left it in place.. Also, I have noticed that the noise (squealing on the right and rubbing on the left) went away when I applied my brakes.But I hear - the squeal even with a slightest turn to the right (like while changing lanes) and the rubbing noise on left when I make a sharp turn. Anything else you can think of?
Thanks
Nash
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The caliper is hard mounted to the knuckle assembly so there are no slider pins. The Powerslot rotor might have worked if the caliper was a sliding type since it could have adjusted itself side to side.
I had the rotors on my 6mt resurfaced off the car, and replaced the pads with another brand. The cheaper pads don't have the same initial bite as the stock Brembos but they work very well for the money, quiet, smooth and nowhere near as much dusting. Honda recommend doing the rotors on-car but I was quoted 30/per rotor and to have them lathed off car was 10$/rotor.
The TL with a 6 speed is sometimes incorrectly called a Type S since it has the manual tranny. Canadian versions called the "Dynamic package" are even more of a Type S since they only came with Potenza RE030 summer tires and thankfully not the terrible Turanza all-seasons.
Changing the pads does not require the caliper be removed. Just pop the 2 pins and wiggle the pads out. You'll need to push the pistons in to be able to insert new pads so check the master cylinder does not overflow.

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