All acura experts,
I recently had my rotors on my 2004 Acura TL (6 speed manual) replaced
by a friend of mine. I have the Brembo brake calipers in the front. We
purchased the Powerslot premium rotors to replace my old plain one and
installed it. But since my brake pads had aroung 90% left(practically
new), we did not replace it.
As per instructions we took the car out on a spin for the first time
with the new rotor. Since the rotors were slotted, they were
noisy(like a train) but the noise went away after we tried to break-in
the rotor several times. But, I can hear a rubbing noise on the left
side when I turn left and a squealy noise on the right when I turn
right from the front wheels and this is driving me nuts. I dont hear
any noise when the car is moving straight.
My brakes are not covered under factory warranty( thats why we decided
to do it ourselves). I want to get rid of the noise. Can anybody help
me by pointing the right way to diagnose and rectify the problem?
Thanks in advance.
Oh, the joys of aftermarket parts.
Sounds like the rotors may be too big in diameter and are contacting the
pad slide shims or the mount bracket. Check the rotors' perimeters for
signs of polishing and scraping.
I had verified the rotors to be of same diameter before installing and
the holes match too. One problem was..the rotor fitted snuggly on the
screws and I had to tap it a little with a wooden mallet in the center
near all holes to get them in. But I am sure i did not make any
impressions or scratches on the rotor while doing that. Anything else
you think could be wrong??
Aha! A new development. When you say it fit "snugly on the screws", you
must mean the holes in the rotor did not line up with the wheel lug bolts.
That's very bad. And VERY aftermarket.
Are you sure the rotor is actually, really and truly, FULLY seated on the
hub flange? It should clang home when you install it.
Mike the rotor "top hat" thickness while it's off the car. Install the disc
again all the way as far as it will go, put the Phillips screws back, then
mike the clearance from "top hat" face through a hole to the hub face. Are
the two measurements identical? Might be tough to measure this for lack of
Mike the diameter of the inside of the rotor where it mates with the hub,
then mike the hub diameter. The hub diameter should be ever so slightly
smaller. If the rotor is smaller than the hub (even by a few thou), the
rotor won't fit properly.
Is the rotor's center hole bigger or smaller than the hub's center lip? Is
there a chamfer on the inside of the rotor's center hole where it mates
with the radius on the hub lip?
A non-fully seated disc (or a wheel with rust on it) will cause slight
movement while cornering that may be heard as noise at the wheels.
Put the rotor back turned 90 degrees from the position where the Phillips
holes line up. You can't put the small screws back that way, but you can
use the lug nuts (finger-tight) to hold the rotor in place. Now you can
mike the above-mentioned dimension.
Weird! I have to tell you...my powersteering oil hose was leaking and
since i had warranty i went to the dealer to fix it. I spoke to him
about the rotor noise also and I told him that I put the powerslot
premium rotors..he looked at it and said that they are not the right
rotors for my car...and the most weird thing is that he claims my car
is a type S. I bought this car from a private party and as per the
previous owner and other docs...it is a regular 2004 3.2 TL with 6
speed manual. The mechanic says that 2004 6 speed are considered type
S and they carry thinner rotors. I have never heard abt that...is the
dealer trying to trick me? do you know? please help me..
Oh man!!! i jacked my car up and spinned it...it did not spin freely
and I touched the inner side of the rotor....it was so very
damaged...had a gutter that ran all around the rotor which was abt
half a centimeter deep..thak got it did not damage my brembo
calipers...i finally removed them and replaced my old rotors..which
are still pretty good....but am getting brembo blanks now..
Powerslot does not carry rotors for AcuraTLs with brembo 4 piston
Thanks all for helping me out...Thanks Tegger!
Let me tell you something: you will not experience any better performance
from those aftermarket components than you would from the factory parts.
Aftermarket /looks/ cool (way cooler than OEM), especially through your
open-spoke wheels, but in the long run you will not be happy with their
If you had a deep groove in the new rotors even with your low mileage,
something was dreadfully, horribly wrong. Dump the aftermarket stuff and
put the factory stuff back on. That includes those 4-pot calipers and their
You may have forgotten to check and _lubricate_ the slider pins that
allow the caliper to 'float' as the pads slowly wear down. See all the
helpful stuff about brakes at www.tegger.com
Like I said earlier.. I did not change my pads...so I did not
dismantle my caliper...Should the slider pin be lubricated when you
change the rotor? I did not want to mess with the caliper...so left it
Also, I have noticed that the noise (squealing on the right and
rubbing on the left) went away when I applied my brakes.But I hear -
the squeal even with a slightest turn to the right (like while
changing lanes) and the rubbing noise on left when I make a sharp
turn. Anything else you can think of?
The caliper is hard mounted to the knuckle assembly so there are no slider
pins. The Powerslot rotor might have worked if the caliper was a sliding
type since it could have adjusted itself side to side.
I had the rotors on my 6mt resurfaced off the car, and replaced the pads
with another brand. The cheaper pads don't have the same initial bite as the
stock Brembos but they work very well for the money, quiet, smooth and
nowhere near as much dusting. Honda recommend doing the rotors on-car but I
was quoted 30/per rotor and to have them lathed off car was 10$/rotor.
The TL with a 6 speed is sometimes incorrectly called a Type S since it has
the manual tranny. Canadian versions called the "Dynamic package" are even
more of a Type S since they only came with Potenza RE030 summer tires and
thankfully not the terrible Turanza all-seasons.
Changing the pads does not require the caliper be removed. Just pop the 2
pins and wiggle the pads out. You'll need to push the pistons in to be able
to insert new pads so check the master cylinder does not overflow.
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