Chrysler Royal, M6 transmission, fluid drive

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Look at oil compressor oil I believe it is 10w

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wrote:

Intersting thought... I've some (synthetic) compressor oil in the shop, I'll see if it is marked with a viscosity. If so I'll post the part number (it is IR oil)
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Believe me when I tell you that synj oil may very well be too slippery to use.
GM a couple of years ago was voiding warranties on some transmissions due to the use of Red Line Syn for that reason. ymmv
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Interesting... I'd not heard about GM doing that, and I use Red Line Synthetic High Temp...
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I went to O'reilly first, and the guy started laughing and "knew" without looking in any sort of publication that there is "no way" to get the stuff. Unfortunately, I knew that was going to be the case. At least the guy at NAPA looked in the book..
So, I then when to tractor supply to check out all the hydraulic oils there... most of them are 20w equivalent. I found one that said 10w20 equivalent... also, there were a bunch of oils that told what they would work in, but none of the initialisms were recognized by my brain.. I am hesitant to put something multigrade in there.
There is a bigger town about half an hour to the south, so i will call around down there and check around.
If you would like, I'll get you the part # that O'Reilly uses. Outta curiosity, why isn't O'Reilly on your "first" list?
Mike
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Sure, that would be appreciated!
The reason O'reilly's isn't on my 'first' list is because the prices are usually higher for the same parts and because of stuff like what happened yesterday. The guy didn't even want to look up anything.. didn't want to be bothered. I receive that attitude every time I go in there. He be dissin' my old-ass 'tranmission' too.. LOL
The NAPA, advance, o'reilly's, and autozone(which is the LAST one on the list) are all within about 3 blocks of each other anyway.. the people at the Advance seem to be the friendliest. Napa has the best filters.
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Ok, now, I have a new question... it is semi-related to this subject..
All the wiring in the car is iffy... every strand. If you touch it or move it, the insulation cracks and falls off. I bought a generic wiring harness which will handle the 6V system. I looked around a bit and seems like it would be about $1000 to get a "concours" quality wiring harness, so that wasn't an option. Besides, there is a nice fuse block with relays and GM blade-type fuses to make life a little easier (maybe)... and all the wires are marked for the entire length of each run.. it's actually very nice for the money.
So, the question... the car is positive ground. I'm assuming the wiring harness I bought is negative ground.. but I don't know if the wiring harness will "care" which end is ground.. does it matter? there aren't any diodes that I have seen... Maybe this seems like a dumb question.... but I don't want to let any smoke out of any wires.. The only reason I ask is because I have a couple of older aftermarket electronic ignition boxes that say "negative ground only"..
Let's say I went ahead and switched over to 12V negative ground. The 'new' engine came with an AMC 12V alternator with the huge pulley to match the crankshaft. Would the governor, solenoid, and interruptor switch wiring on the transmission need to be changed? I'm thinking about it as I type and it doesn't seem like anything would need to be changed in the system except the large wires at the battery (negative to chassis and positive to starter)... would reversing the ground and positive like that cause any fuses in the system to be protecting the wrong end of the circuit? Am I talking out my rear-end? LOL
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I used a similar harness when I restored my kid's Jeep and they are quite good.

The wiring harness doesn't care, but you must be conscious of the positive ground while doing the wiring. Fuses should always be placed "before" the load to protect the circuit downstream.

All items that were designed to operate on 6VDC must be changed to accomodate the new 12VDC power source. There are however adapters that can be used to "step down" the voltage to all circuits except the charging and starting circuits. This would eliminate the need to change "everything" over to 12VDC.

Yes!
Am I talking

No!
Mike
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Ok, you have convinced me to leave the car 6V positive ground for right now. I appreciate your input, definitely! My 90 year old grandfather is the driving force behind getting this car back on the road and the simplest route is the best at this point.... he will probably live forever, but i want the car to be back on the road sooooon just in case he doesnt live forever... lol
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Ok, you have convinced me to leave the car 6V positive ground for right now. I appreciate your input, definitely! My 90 year old grandfather is the driving force behind getting this car back on the road and the simplest route is the best at this point.... he will probably live forever, but i want the car to be back on the road sooooon just in case he doesnt live forever... lol
Maybe I missed it but what is the year and make of the vehicle?
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49 chrysler royal 2 door
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wrote in message

Sure, that would be appreciated!
OK, the O'Reilly part number for the oil is Line Code = OIL, part # = ND10
Take the line code and part # to your local O'Reilly's and they will get you the oil
The reason O'reilly's isn't on my 'first' list is because the prices are usually higher for the same parts and because of stuff like what happened yesterday. The guy didn't even want to look up anything.. didn't want to be bothered. I receive that attitude every time I go in there. He be dissin' my old-ass 'tranmission' too.. LOL.
The reason I ask is that I am a manager with O'Reilly and was curious about your experience. The part about the prices kinda surprises me since I have found the opposite to be true in my market. We do have a low-price guarantee so if someone has a lower price, we will match it. Sadly, the personenel varies from store to store, but believe me, the coprorate office puts a great deal of attention on superior customer service... sorry about your bad experience.
Mike
The NAPA, advance, o'reilly's, and autozone(which is the LAST one on the list) are all within about 3 blocks of each other anyway.. the people at the Advance seem to be the friendliest. Napa has the best filters.
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Well Mike, I finally called the O'reilly's here in town again to find out about the 10W oil... gave them the information and the guy came back and said the Atlanta warehouse had a whopping 2 quarts on-hand. The manager wasn't at the store today, and the guy said that he was not allowed to order a 12-case for me until the manager is in. Glad I called first..
Another thing that's wonderful is for the past 20 years, my dad has been telling me "oh yeah, i replaced the kingpins"... so I replaced the wheel bearings without really investigating only to get them tight and discover the front wheel still moves out 1/4" at the bottom... kingpins!! wooohoo! Probably will have to find new stub axle carriers since these kingpins are freaking TRASHED.
Sometimes I wish I was a freaking idiot and didn't *want* to fix broken things. Life would be much simpler..
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wrote:

Well Mike, I finally called the O'reilly's here in town again to find out about the 10W oil... gave them the information and the guy came back and said the Atlanta warehouse had a whopping 2 quarts on-hand. The manager wasn't at the store today, and the guy said that he was not allowed to order a 12-case for me until the manager is in. Glad I called first..
Another thing that's wonderful is for the past 20 years, my dad has been telling me "oh yeah, i replaced the kingpins"... so I replaced the wheel bearings without really investigating only to get them tight and discover the front wheel still moves out 1/4" at the bottom... kingpins!! wooohoo! Probably will have to find new stub axle carriers since these kingpins are freaking TRASHED.
Sometimes I wish I was a freaking idiot and didn't *want* to fix broken things. Life would be much simpler..
Why not just replace the king pins and bushings? It's not terribly hard. Your O'Reilly store has access to a company called "Rare Parts" and can get most any steering/suspension parts for the old 'gal.
Mike
If you have probs getting the oil, let me know.
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Ok, thanks for the tip on the front-end parts! I'll go check it out! The only thing i'm scared of with the kingpins is A> the pin is mangled and won't come out and/or B> the pin comes out, but the knuckle is worn out from neglect.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Who knows, you may turn me into an O'reilly's believer after all.. :D
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wrote:

Ok, thanks for the tip on the front-end parts! I'll go check it out! The only thing i'm scared of with the kingpins is A> the pin is mangled and won't come out
Rule #1 - KIng pins NEVER come out easy... they're king pins... that's what they do!
and/or B> the pin comes out, but the knuckle is worn out from neglect.
Rule #2 - Replace the worn king pin bushings and the knuckle is unharmed and lives to fight another day
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Who knows, you may turn me into an O'reilly's believer after all.. :D
That's the plan....
;^)
Mike
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wrote:

Please post pictures when done! <BFG>
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I will post some pictures of what I have done thus far, if'n you're interested :D
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The only set of kingpins i've ever had to replace were on a 1980 Ford pickup.. that was truly a joyous occasion. Thinking back on that is the reason for my apprehension about this car.. alas, it must be done.
Fortunately, I think the 'rare parts' will probably save me some money.
I also need to get a new clutch and pressure plate.. this one seems old enough it could be original. It's crumbling as well, so I don't really want to re-install it. This fluid drive is really a funky setup!
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