Belt tensioner 97 taurus

Can anyone give me a quick rundown on how to change the belt tensioner on a 97 taurus with vulcan engine? Chilton manual doesn't seem to mention it
anywhere (figures). Any special tools needed? I have a fairly extensive socket set, but I've heard sometimes they use a torx bit? I just changed the belt (which was at the "stretch limiter" and making noise) and when i moved the tensioner out of the way, it didn't "snap back" (like it is seized). I could manually force it back to tension the belt, but there is obviously something amiss.
Thanks for any help!
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Teknical wrote:

If you've already changed the belt, you were more than half-way through the tensioner job... it's easy. Metric socket set will get the job done. One bolt through the middle of the tensioner... it will be self explanatory when you get it out.
Rob
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Technical wrote:

If its like my Gen II 3.0, there is a single torx type bit in the center of the tensioner mount. You will need a torx socket. I just took mine on and off. It can be a little bit a of a challenge with e 3/8" drive if its on tight. There is a notch the tensioner fits in as well as the screw hole. On mine, it takes a 15 MM wrench to put on the tensioner wheel to pull it back. I was wishing yesterday that i had a 1.5 foot 15 mm wrench to make it easier to pull the tension off the belt.
I would take it off and clean it out. Maybe if the spring is not broke you might be able to revive it. Check that it spins freely as well as have spring tension. WHile you at it, check your water pump for shaft play. I have changed many water pumps on 3.0's. the tension on the pulley causes the bearing to wear eccentric and eventually cause the water pump impeller to scrape inside the housing. If yours is over 100K with original pump, you might think about replacing it while your working in the area. Change the lower radiator hose while your at it.
Bob

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