97 accord disk brake caliper

Somehow the passenger side disk brake pads froze completely wearing one pad down to the metal. Had to beat them out of the caliper. Am replacing the old pad retainers and shims with new honda parts.
Discovered the piston boot has a rip in it. There is no fluid leak so the piston seal is okay.
Can I replace the boot without completely removing the piston? What lube should I use on the piston, and caliper bolts. Is Syl Glyde ok.
Thanks
Been a while since I have seen your posts Teeger - thanks for all the support you provide.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If the pads on one side wore quicker than the other, then I would say you have a seized piston and that caliper needs to be replaced. Since you should do them in pairs I would recommend you do that. The remanufactured Cardone costs about $50-60 each.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hey Butch,
I had a similar problem with my 2000 Honda and I subscribed to ALLDATAdiy.com and it has been very useful. I am handy and like to do things myself and this subscription gives me diagnosis, repair, TBSs, recalls and labor times.
Check it out - I copied the link below for you.
http://traffic.alldatadiy.com/cgi-bin/redir?pd_link=i1-a44690-o4010-c66365
Andy Deil
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
butchb wrote:

The piston exerts equal pressure on both sides of the disc but the slider pins will prevent the pressure from 'unloading' if they get seized up. The whole caliper needs to be unbolted and hung from a hanger so you can inspect / repair BOTH the top and bottom slider pins. CR-V gets the same problem if not serviced correctly.
'Curly'
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

When I removed the caliper to get the pads out, the bottom slider pin was really hard to get out - had to spray it with WD-40. The grease on the bottom slider pin was black and hard. Will replace the slider clips, clean the pins and the interior of pin holder, apply Sil Glide to the pins and see if the piston is stuck - don't think it is. Will also replace the piston boot.
Oh just as a note in passing - replaced the worn out pads on the passenger side only with ceramic pads - all Autozone had in stock - the ceramic pads have more stopping power than do standard Honda pads - pulls left a bit when I hit the brakes - will replace the Honda pads on the drivers side with same ceramic pads - know any hard braking would produce a skid - no adventures wanted.
Thanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
butchb wrote:

although it's tempting to use, wd40 wrecks brake rubbers. not immediately, but if you check back in a couple of weeks, chances are, the rubber will be swollen and will tear easily. you need to use silicone lubes all the way, unless you're replacing everything of course.
the best lube to use is "m77". silicone and molybdenum disulfide. it's supposed to be used in original assembly, but by the sound of things, someone cut corners.
you can buy it from honda. failing that, only use a silicone lube. personally, i think sil-glyde sucks.

never ever change just one side. ever. totally unbalanced. major health risk.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

One note on the newer model Accords. My sister has a new 08 EX and just hit over 15k miles. I checked the rear pads and the outer pads had about 30% left on them while the inner pads are almost completely shot. I posted up on driveaccord.net and it seems like the Gen 7 and 8 have this problem. Looks like Honda needs to go back to the drawing board on the rear brake design.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.com wrote:

-----------------------
Same thing on brand new CR-V's. Dry slider pins seizing. Honda must be forgetting to pump the grease inside the slider pin holes when they assemble them. Very bad way to assemble a new vehicle.
'Curly'
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Curly: My bottom slider pin in the caliper with the inside pad worn out and plenty of pad left on the outside, was really hard to get out. Grease was baked - took lots of WD-40.
What grease do you suggest - will Sil Glide a Napa silicone grease be best - any other suggestions for high temp grease.
Thanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
butchb wrote:

------------------------
SilGlide (sp) seems to be the one most mentioned over at www.hondasuv.com I use a similar one called Permatex 22063 'ultra disk brake caliper lube'
'Curly'
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
motsco_ wrote:

the official honda solution is something called "m77". it's heavy duty, very good, but expensive. contains MoS2 so can handle heavy loads.
having had some terrible problems with silglide, [turns into a sticky glue] i say avoid it. as a minimum, need to be a proper silicone grease to preserve the rubbers.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Some people on driveaccord.net have been mentioning that it is just the design of the caliper being one piston which is causing this to occur. I'm not 100% convinced that is the case but on a new car I sometimes wonder if it is true.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@nowhere.com wrote:

that's way too simplistic. not only are single piston calipers are highly reliable if manufactured and maintained properly, they offer one extremely important design advantage over any other caliper design - the ease with which you can accommodate negative scrub radius, and thus make the car safer to drive.
http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm#Scrub%20Radius
to achieve negative scrub, the wheel disk needs to be highly dished, and the distance between the center line of the bearing and the wheel bolt circle minimized. conventional dual piston calipers tend to be much thicker and thus make negative scrub harder to achieve. [after-market multi-piston calipers use opposing pistons in compact calipers by having short travel, shallower pads, and more frequent pad change intervals.]
there's no more reason a single piston brake will seize on its slider than one piston on a multi-piston caliper will seize. and in practice, often less so.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Got a reman Cardone caliper including the part that it attaches to for $40 from Bumper to Bumper. Easy replacement - now am replacing the other side. The prices varied for this reman caliper + all the way up to $75 - so check several sources before buying. Cardone appears to use a white silicone grease on their slider pins.
Thanks for all the help.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
butchb wrote:

My experience with Cardone in the past has been less than stellar. Be sure to keep a close eye on it in the months ahead.
Just FYI...
JT
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
butchb wrote:

well, white stuff certainly doesn't have black MoS2 in it! i say keep an eye on that puppy. better yet, take it back and go for the more expensive ones. there is usually a reason for the difference in price.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
butchb wrote:

----------------------
Here's a CR-V link that includes Molykote and the explanation of "stuck Slider Pins" http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t '940&highlight=molykote
'Curly'
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.