cv boot or cv joint

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Well, I hope they aren't bad, either :-) But I'm certain they aren't. I've seen a bunch of bad CV joint boots but I've never even seen the grease get on the brake disc, much less damage the hub. Don't worry about it.
Maybe they have seen a hub that was damaged when the axle was replaced and the axle nut not torqued enough afterward. (The fit doesn't slack off when the axle fails - it has to be when it is disassembled.) The guilty mechanic may have tried to pass off the damage to the hub as being from the axle, but what happens is that the spline fit of the axle to the hub starts wallowing out if the nut isn't properly torqued... proper torque is somewhere over 100 ft-lbs; very tight. If so, that mechanic deserves coal in his stocking (why wait 'til Christmas for that?) for not owning up to his mistake. The failure shows up initially as creaking from the wheel, progressing to loss of drive as the axle starts spinning in the hub. The only fix then is to replace both parts.
Mike
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rynniki wrote:

the axle failure rarely causes the bearing to go bad, but it's not uncommon for bearings to be ruined by the axle guy pounding on the axle stub - brinells the bearing races.
if you can, find someone that knows what they're doing & you should have no problems. grease leakage does /not/ effect the bearing.
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In my experience, people who charge relatively little for a job like this are simply experienced or skilled enough to make it look easy. I think this one will go well.
Mike
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Well here is the outcome,they suspected the axles that were supposed to be only 2 years were never changed,i needed new bearings,new rotors,2 axles,the final cost with oil change and oil plug and washer was 1100.00 and he only charged me 250 for labor,he is a great guy he looks out for me,and also he showed me everything that was wrong before he ordered everything,he has helped me out in the past before for hardly anything,but at least i have everything new.
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Glad to hear of the good outcome, sad to hear the axles weren't changed to start with. Grr!
You are ahead of the game now (even $1100 poorer - you'll recover from that long before you have to go through that again). I know the rotors and bearings are fairly expensive, but getting those done while everything is apart saves paying for labor a second time.
Mike
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Michael Pardee wrote:

hmm, i guess you can say it's good that they'll not have to do this again, but at the risk of sounding like a whiner, honestly, how many hondas do you know that genuinely need /two/ new bearings plus rotors at only 120k? this is not a ford. $1100? bearings are $60 each, less if you go to the bearing store. rotors about $50 each. decent quality driveshafts are about $120 each. plus $250 labor, i still only make that a $710 job, and i think about $220 of that is unnecessary.
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i guess you havent read my previous posts lately,they did not replace the axles in the first place when they were torn before we bought the car,my rotors were bad i looked at them,just because i am a girl doesnt mean i dont know shit about cars,plus part prices are different everywhere in the u.s. depending were you live!!!!! it's done and over with now.....,and to let you know also is labor is 75/hour in md.,but for now i still dont have the car back its still there the parts people kept bringing the wrong axle,and then the axle shaft was too short,too much drama for 2 days
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rynniki wrote:

please don't flame - i made no such assertion.

agreed, but with respect, shopping around saves money. if you can buy the parts online for the prices i quoted, genuine honda parts from a honda dealer, it helps you negotiate a better price. take printouts of majestic honda's prices with you next time you need work done & see how it affects the prices you get quoted. /this is a suggestion, not a criticism./ works wonders for me.

if the car's ever had a front end collision and has not been repaired well, it's common for the engine to sit slightly askew and for a shaft to appear "too short". investigate this & check into getting a cheap & dirty "reallignment" of the engine in the bay. doesn't need to look pretty, just make sure the engine sits better. this should have been checked before the work was commenced.
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sorry. no the car has never been in an accident.i got her back last night,so far so good ,but i do have a question about abs brakes i think thats what i have,to me the brakes feel soft ,i dont remember them feeling this way,maybe cause i havent driven it in 2 days,but do brakes feel funny after new rotors? i dont want to spend anymore money
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No - they should feel about the way they did before. Time for a trip back to the mechanic. A good mechanic welcomes the chance to take another look at the work he's done if there might be a problem, and looking at the calipers he had to move out of the way is easy for him. The last time this happened to me was because I took the caliper off and the pads out to deglaze them, then reassembled without relubricating the slide pins. (That's probably what your mechanic did, since it would be a reasonable place to draw the line as to how much to check - the brakes are easy to get to and touching them any more than he had to risked stirring up the evil spirits.) One slide pin was rusted solid and when I reassembled the brakes that side never grabbed - the pedal was soft and I could turn that wheel by hand when the brakes were all the way down!
If you use your best conciliatory manner you may get this as a freebie even though it probably wasn't strictly speaking his fault. It sounds like he's been working with you to keep the labor down so far.
Best of luck!
Mike
Mike
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i went back this morning he readjusted the rear brakes beacuse the front was fine ,and the guy who usually works on the car said they were fine,i think its because i forgot how they felt cause i havent driven in 2 days
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how much are brakes usually? and how about a master cylinder if i ever need one?
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Roughly, new "linings" (the friction parts that wear out, pads for disk brakes and shoes for drum brakes) are about $100 parts and labor for each axle; that is, that much for the front and that much for the back. The front wears faster than the rear because it does more of the work in stopping the car (the weight shifts forward when braking). Figure about the same for the master cylinder. The master cylinder usually is left alone until it starts acting up - usually the pedal gets soft or sinks when you are stopped.
Most brake shops will do free brake inspections in hopes of getting the job if something is bad, and that can be a good way of making sure the brake linings don't wear out completely. When they do, you get metal to metal contact and the rotors or (in the rear axle) drums are damaged. Drums screech when the shoes wear out that far, while disk brakes make an unmistakable grinding sound when you step on the pedal. Now that you have new rotors (disks) in the front, you definitely don't want to wait for the last minute to replace the linings (like you'd want to otherwise... not!). When the friction material gets down to about 1/8 inch it's time to get new ones. 1/16th inch is really pressing your luck.
The mechanic who did the front axles can give you an estimate of how soon you should have the brakes rechecked for wear. I'm sure it won't be soon or he would have recommended new pads while he had it apart.
Mike
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alright guys wish me luck,its getting fixed today i will let you all know how it went.
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I had one go out at around 100K and the other around 130K. Its easy to see it, just look under the car and look at the drive mechanism that goes to the wheels. The rubber boot will be split.
A symptom is hearing a clicking noise when you go through a tight turn.
As I recall I paid either $200 or $300 per boot. You replace it with a rebuilt one.
Supposedly you can just replace the rubber but that requires more labor to take it all apart - so rebuilt ones seem like a logical approach.
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