oily spark plugs

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Colisto wrote:


do the valve lash and run some injector cleaner through it. if it's not burning oil, has no ecu codes and runs ok, don't worry about it.
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<snip>

The #1 plug.

#3.
Did you remove the valve cover so you can see inside the spark plug well better? Or have you tried peering down the well with a strong flashlight?
I stil think you've got a gasket leak.
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TeGGeR®

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TeGGeR® wrote:

I'll have a good deep look with a flashlight. It must be leaking down there if no oil is resident on the electrodes. What is the gasket called in that area?
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snip

It's called by a few names, but for my 1991 Civic, it's listed as "Gasket B" under "Cylinder head cover" at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5 &catcgry1=Civic&catcgry291&catcgry3MR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CYLIND ER+HEAD+COVER .
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wrote

Let's unbreak that URL, shall we?
<http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Civic&catcgry2 91&catcgry3MR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+HEAD+COVER>
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TeGGeR® wrote:

<http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Civic&catcgry2 91&catcgry3MR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+HEAD+COVER>
That gasket is towards the top of where you put the spark plug is not leaking. I looked down and there is a crease I can see about four inches down and it is leaking. What is that gasket called? I assume there is is gasket there. Gasket B is the top one I think.
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Colisto wrote:

Those are the o-rings that I referred to in my earlier post. They are the parts labeled #16 & #17 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/aby5j . The diagram only shows two of the o-rings but there are a total of three #16s and one of #17 that are needed. As I noted in my earlier post, they're not a project for beginners.
Eric
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Is this somthing I should get fixed asap? The electrodes on the spark plug seem to not have any oil on them.
Eric wrote:

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It's not a panic, but if you leave it, the spark plug tube will eventually get pretty goopy and gungy inside, and may interfere with proper tightening of new plugs.
If you like, you can just swab out the spark plug tube (plug in place!) each time you do a valve adjustment (once a year is a good idea). Or more often than that if you leave the valve cover on, and just unplug the spark plug wires. You can get a piece of wire inside the tube with some terry cloth taped to the end like a big Q-Tip, and swab out the oil.

If any gets on them, it will get burned off. It takes quite a bit of oil entering the combustion chamber for the electrodes to stay wet with oil.
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Colisto wrote:

If the oil level in the spark plug tubes gets high enough for an extended period of time, then you run the risk of damaging the spark plug wires. Oil has a tendency to turn some rubber into mush. There is also a risk of causing a misfire which would cause rough running and likely send partially unburned gas to the catalytic converter. This in turn would cause it to overheat and shorten its life span. Of course, you can avoid these risks by following one of two paths. Either get the o-rings replaced, which might cost around $300, or periodically remove the oil from the affected spark plug tubes. I would remove the oil by swabbing it out with one of those heavy duty blue paper towels (without removing the spark plugs). Then drive the car for a week or two and recheck it. Depending on the status of the o-rings, you might find that you need to remove the oil once a month or so.
If you do decide to get the o-rings replaced, then wait until you can combine the labor with other services. For example, I would recommend waiting until you need to get a major service with a valve adjustment. In addition, you may also want to wait until you need to get the timing belt and water pump replaced. Combining all three of these repair jobs would be ideal since the valves will need to be adjusted and the timing belt will likely need to be detensioned before the cam towers are removed. It would also be a good idea to replace the cam seal and this is usually pretty standard on a timing belt job. A reputable shop will discount the labor on each of these tasks somewhat since there is overlapping work that needs to be performed.
Eric
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Alright, thanks for all the good info guys. I'll just keep and eye on it for a while until I can warrant spending the money on it.
Eric wrote:

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I have a 91 Accord with 200k miles on it. I had the same problem and got the gaskets changed more problem. Not sure of the cost because I also had other work done while it was in the shop. I would get the gaskets changed.
Daniel G
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