Swapping D44 into ABS jeep

Well, it got sold. I didn't move on it fast enough.

True, but if you intentionally disabled the ABS, and then caused serious damage by smashing into something else, your insurance company would have grounds to disallow any and all claims made by or against you. ABS theoretically makes the vehicle safer, you see. Installing a Dana 44 without ABS is theoretically disabling the safety features that the vehicle was sold with. I am waiting for them to get legislation passed, that would disallow claims made by or against those bozos who refuse to wear seat belts.

Cheers,

Earle

Hi Earle, This is a litigious society, up until a couple of years ago, BMWs passenger cars and Mercedes 4X4s for a couple, had a switch to disconnect ABS. God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

off-road:

God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.comhttp://www.billhughes.com/>

I agree, I'll keep looking for the right one. I used to have a ZJ with ABS and there is a turn with a bump in town where the ABS would always kick in and make the braking very weak just where you really had to reduce your speed. Not a good feeling.

Yep. I just figured I would throw that in. I know it's farfetched, but I wouldn't fancy getting in front of a jury and explaining how I removed part of the stock braking system because it actually made braking worse. I'm just a poor retired guy and I don't even have an ASE diploma. How would I know stuff like that?

Cheers,

Earle

2002 4.0L I6 TJ Manual Tranny and until two weeks ago it never failed to start on the first crank. Two weeks ago I was setting at stop sign when the person behind me, for unknown reasons, thought I had pulled out and proceded to drive her little chevy car under the rear of my Jeep. My spare tire and tow hooks pretty much destroyed the front of her car but my Jeep appeared to be unaffected other then some scuffs on the gas tank.

The gas tank isn't dented at all, just some of the black paint is scruffed off. There is no other damage , or even minor srapes , that I can see other than some of her paint on the bottome of my spare tire and on the tow hooks.

Now if the Jeep sets more than 10 minutes after being shut off it doesn't want to start. If I turn the key and just crank and crank and crank it won't start at all. If I turn the key and crank crank crank, then stop, crank crank crank again, stop and crank crank crank again, it will normally start on the 3rd attempt. Sometimes it will almost start on the second 'crank crank crank' but fails with what sounds like a muffled belch or backfire. I checked the tank throughly I can't find even a small dent or any signs the tank was pushed out of place... I don't know. I can't figure out if it knocked somethign loose inside , maybe rust or something knocked loose and now clogging a filter ? It runs pefectly once it's started though. It will start just fine as long as it isn't allowed to set for long , almost as if fuel is draining out of something when it sits long enough.

Any ideas ?

Farrell

I could be mistaken, but I was told some have an antidrainback valve inside the gas tank on the pump.

I would suspect this valve has failed or jammed from the impact. I would suspect you need a new in-tank pump/filter/valve unit which is expensive.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > 2002 4.0L I6 TJ Manual Tranny and until two weeks ago it never failed to

I replied wrong and sent this to an existing thread so I'm reposting it. Hopefully I get it right this time.

I have a 2002 4.0L I6 TJ and until two weeks ago it never failed to start on the first crank. Two weeks ago I was setting at stop sign when the person behind me, for unknown reasons, thought I had pulled out and proceeded to drive her little Chevy car under the rear of my Jeep. My spare tire and tow hooks pretty much destroyed the front of her car but my Jeep appeared to be unaffected other then some scuffs on the gas tank and paint on the bottom of my spare tire.

The gas tank isn't dented at all, just some of the black paint is scuffed off. There is no other damage , or even minor scrapes , that I can see other than some of her paint on the bottom of my spare tire and on the tow hooks.

Now if the Jeep sets more than 10 minutes after being shut off it doesn't want to start. If I turn the key and just crank and crank and crank it won't start at all. If I turn the key and crank crank crank, then stop, crank crank crank again, stop and crank crank crank again, it will normally start on the 3rd attempt. Sometimes it will almost start on the second 'crank crank crank' but fails with what sounds like a muffled belch or backfire. I checked the tank thoroughly I can't find even a small dent or any signs the tank was pushed out of place... I don't know. I can't figure out if it knocked something loose inside , maybe rust or something knocked loose and now clogging a filter ? It runs perfectly once it's started though. It will start just fine as long as it isn't allowed to set for long , almost as if fuel is draining out of something when it sits long enough.

Any ideas ?

Farrell

I could be mistaken, but I was told some have an antidrainback valve inside the gas tank on the pump.

I would suspect this valve has failed or jammed from the impact. I would suspect you need a new in-tank pump/filter/valve unit which is expensive.

This is added from the other post. Is the ground connection for the pump in the rear and could it have been knocked loose or even the plug to the pump itself maybe knocked loose from the impact?

Can you get the stored trouble codes easily on the 02? Maybe a code has been set.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > I replied wrong and sent this to an existing thread so I'm reposting it.

Bill, she burned her hoochee. Now that's serious.

Cheers,

Earle

The fuel pump module, located inside the pump, incorporates the fuel pressure regulator. The regulator keeps constant fuel pressure for the injectors when the engine runs, and keeps the fuel lines under pressure even after the engine has been shut off. This is so that there is enough pressure so that the injectors can atomize fuel when the engine cranks, and allow the engine to fire immediately.

When the fuel regulator is damaged, it could leak fuel back to the tank and fuel pressure is released when the engine has been shut off.

This is a scenario of what probably happens when you try to fire the engine after some time, when the pressure has dropped to zero.

First the pump is primed for 2 secs by the PCM. But with zero fuel pressure, this is not enough to build up proper pressure to the injectors. Then you crank, and the pump starts running again. But at the same time, the injectors don't have enough pressure at the beginning. As you crank and pressure rises, the injectors start to pour non atomized fuel, which partially floods the engine. In the next attempt, the 2 sec prime of the pump rises pressure a bit more to almost normal pressure, but the engine is flooded and doesn't fire right away. The second attempt un-floods the engine, that why you may hear a backfire or o pop. Now the fuel system is under proper pressure and the engine unflooded, and with the 3rd attempt it will fire right away like it should normally do.

You can try this test. Turn the ignition on (without cranking) listen to the pump run for 2 secs and then turn off. Repeat this for 2-3 times, until fuel pressure is built up, and then crank the engine. If it fires right away, the regulator is damaged. The problem is that the regulator is integrated in the pump module which is non reparable and fairly expensive. But it should be covered by the insurance of the other driver.

Bill Spiliotopoulos, '96 XJ, '06 TJ.

Bill / Mike

I thought I had replied to this already , thanking you guys, but I don't see it here in Google Groups if I did.

Anyway, I believe you are correct that it is the fuel pump. The way I am starting it right now is to turn the key just enough to run the fuel pump three times before cranking. It starts instantly when I crank it on the third turn.

I started to just replace the fuel pump when it thought " Hmmm, if this thing can be messed up so easy should I really put the same thing back in ". Would an inline fuel pump (not in the tank) work better / worse / not an option ?

Also, this is the first time I ever posted / used this web based news groups thing... I want to apologize in advance is this ends up in the wrong place.

Farrell

I only see this reply to date, Google can be slow sometimes though.

Impacts are just plain nasty and can even blow the crankshaft bearings, let alone mess up a pump valve. The last used engine I took someone to see was in a front end collision and when I opened the oil plug, chunks of bearings came out along with tons of ferrous (magnetic) filings. The owner junked it when he saw that...

Inline pumps don't really work well. The TJ pump isn't known to normally have too many issues, I would stick with stock.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - G> Bill / Mike