3.5 V8 Cam options.

That's good advice - the standard LR 3.9 cam works really well with the

3.5 engine.

3.9 cam will achieve that. It has much better torque characteristics than the original 3.5 cam.

Fit a 3.9 cam.

You need to decide on tyre size first. If you're running 205R16 then a 1.

222 xfer box ratio is fine. Anything bigger and you'll want to consider a 1.4. A 1.6 will be too low geared and will increase fuel consumption. The 1.4 is fitted to V8 90s and 110s the 1.6 is fitted to Diesel 110s.

cheers

Dave W.

On or around Tue, 18 Nov 2003 20:31:38 -0000, "Mark Hale" enlightened us thusly:

I was told that. The 3.9 cam is almost identical to the *early* 3.5 cam, apart from everything being 2 degrees earlier, I think. This makes it an improvement for some later 3.5s, or a good replacement for the early ones if the cam's worn. Same price, within a fiver, so might as well.

The chain box has LSD in as well. Personally, not had problems with it; it's possible that it chews through tyres slightly faster.

however, by going for an LT230 (disco) one, you avoid the problem with propshaft lengthsº. Start from the gearbox end is my advice, line up the propshafts, you'll probably find that the normal RR gearbox mountings will do this for you, then adjust the engine mounting points if necessary. On my

110, they needed to go forward about 4" to line up with RR engine plates and allow the use of RR exhaust manifolds. The RR manifold/Y pipe combo fitted with the 110 middle box section a treat. º one of them will be 2" short. Using standard gearbox mounts on mine, the front prop was the right length, rear was 2" short. If you mount the gearbox differently, you may find it's the front shaft that's wrong. On mine, the front shaft is the same length as a Range Rover one.

I have recently fitted a piper 270/110 into a V8 with incredibly good results.

Got it from RPi as usual and fitted duplex timing chain at the same time too..

I fitted one of these cams some years ago into a 3.5, running 9.85:1 c.r., and achieved good results BUT only after some reworking. The lift was such that the valve springs were coil binding on full lift and causing a serious rattle over 4200rpm, and there was no power above 4500rpm at all. Ended up converting to EFI to get the fuelling spot on, I found that any carb needles available were always a compromise although the best I had was BAC needles with K&N filters. Engine produced bags of torque just above idle up to around 3000rpm, which was what I wanted. Then I converted to automatic gearbox and had to change the cam again, this cam is NOT suitable for an auto, unless you can live with it stalling every time you select D or R. Badger.

||||| I am at last installing a V8 into my Defender. I have a 3.5 V8 to ||| fit and I was advised to swap the cam for a 3.9 cam. || || I was told that. The 3.9 cam is almost identical to the *early* 3.5 || cam, apart from everything being 2 degrees earlier, I think. This || makes it an improvement for some later 3.5s, or a good replacement || for the early ones if the cam's worn. Same price, within a fiver, || so might as well. ||

Agreed 100%. I put a 3.9 cam in the trialler and the difference is amazing - load of low-down torque and a much steadier idle. The fact that the 3.5 cam I took out had almost no cam profile left is irrelevant ;-)