Body / Suspension lift on 1989 Range Rover

Just wondering if any of you guys out there have experience or advice on carrying out a body or suspension lift on a classic shape range rover?? (Normal, none elec air sprung model)

Not looking for enormous increase in clearance......more for cosmetics really.....(stop my poor little rangie from being dwarfed by all these Merc and BMW "pretender" 4x4's!!!!!!) But also to stop me from smashing off the front and rear bumper cappings and front bumper spoiler when I do then take it on mild off roading every now and then.

Any adverse road handling characteristics in the various mods available????

I've heard about many and a various ways of achieving a "lift"....i.e. fitting disco springs here and there, or fitting spacers between body and chassis. But I'm looking for something *subtle*.....1 or 2"???? something in that order.

Anyone got any ideas???

And is it something the average home mechanic can do?......or a garage job??

Thanx.

John. snipped-for-privacy@john.gjg@btopenworld.com

Reply to
John Newton
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Hi The springs are probably a bit tired anyway so could be replaced fairly easily if you can lay your hands on a pair on spring compressors and axle stands. On my 1982 RR I put RR rear springs rated 150 on the front instead of normal 130, and 170 rated on the rear. This gave a decent lift and kept it level. Sorry, I can't remember the colour codes. If you go for a 2 inch lift in springs and shockers, you have to consider all the other aspects of what that extra articulation will do. Brake pipes, joints etc

Regards

Reply to
Rudolph Hucker

I've done a bodylift on my RR

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I've only got basic mechanic skills, and it wasn't too difficult, only took me a weekend with lots of coffee breaks... :)

You can buy bodylift kits from various 4x4 places, which is probably better than being a bodge like me and making my own kit.

I did find that there was a bit more body roll after the lift, but as yours is an 89 model, you have anti-rollbars (maybe? corrections anyone?) so it shouldn't affect you as much. The main gear lever seemed ok, but the transfer case lever needed an extension welded onto it, and a 'slight' adjustment to the hole in the floor. The handbrake works ok, it's just a lot closer to the floor when it's off now. Brake lines will need to be lengthened - time to put fancy braided lines in? Bullbar/bumpers don't have to be adjusted, but it makes the whole package look a bit nicer if you do. Radiator cowling will have to be dropped a bit. I removed mine and stuck thermo fans on the front of the radiator, as well as keeping the engine fan.

A few notes above and beyond what's on the above page... (I'm too slack to update it).

  1. In one part I talk about "swivel bolts". They are actually the rear seat belt mounts. Make sure you connect them up again (get longer bolts?). As I don't have a rear seat in now, they're not being used.
  2. I mentioned an LPG line over the top of one of the bolts. It's not, it's a clutch line.

Now I've said that, I did a small suspension lift (using Old Man Emu gear), and it only took me half a day (with a lot of coffee breaks!), and it was a lot easier.

HTH

Macca

Reply to
Macca

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