OTish - rusty flywheel/clutch

I have just been stripping down an old engine I had stashed ready to weigh it in. I wanted the flywheel and clutch off it first.

It has obviously got wet at some point and the water has got inbetween the clutch plate and the flywheel/diaphram plate and left slightly raised rusty bits. They are too well established to wire brush or wet and dry off.

Does thie mean that the flywheel needs resurfacing and the clutch replacing or would they be okay to use? I assume that the friction plate will spin and wear the rust off and get it back to shiney metal? or is this not how it will work?

Will it all work - but with a slightly reduced life for the disc?

Reply to
Tom Woods
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If its that heavily rusted, your probably in danger of scrubbing the clutch plate.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Tom Woods uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Think of it like putting good pads on a fubard disc, you just wouldn't.

Resurface if it's worth even bothering - Think of it as a flywheel lightening exercise.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

It costs about £35 to get a flywheel resurfaced. A clutch kit is cheaper...

I'd be happy to sacrifice the clutch disc and replace it in a couple of months.

This is going on a saab - so i can do a clutch replacement in an hour or 2 at a later date due to saabs cunning backwards engine ;)

Reply to
Tom Woods

What ? Skimmed in a lathe ? I know somewhere a bit cheaper....

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

gonna have to pop up again soon so i can actually have a go in your GS and compare it to the go-faster ambi :) Have got some suggestions for brake pot mk2 too! :)

I assume that is jut skimming in a lathe. Thats the price at the local engine place (or its what they charged me when i last had one done - was down as 'refacing' on the bill). I've since had loads of heads done and they charge £22.50 for a cylinder head - so ive no idea why it is so much for a clutch. I had some stuff balanced too so perhaps the charges are all mixed up somewhat.

I was going to fit this flywheel and clutch to my new saab engine (its a much later one which gives me a better clutch) - and do so tommorrow. Might put it aside and sort it out later at my leisure - just noticed that it needs a spigot bearing too and i cant be arsed to troll about the local bearing suppliers to find one tommorrow - or wait a week for one to mail order. Can just use the original old one for now.

Reply to
Tom Woods

Have you ever used one of 3M's clean and strip discs? Clean it up as best you can with one of these and use it as you propose.

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You can get them quite easily these days from people like Cromwell Tools. Even if you don't use it for this job, get acquainted - it's an excellent product.

They come with a central hole for use with a mandrel, sort of velcro-backed or with an integral spindle.

Reply to
Dougal

Off to Korea on Thursday for a couple of weeks minimum, but anytime after. I'd like to get a comparison from someone about his engine. I don't really know how well it should be running - is my 11.5 MPG on LPG good bad or indifferent, can I improve it with that neat lambda probe thing.

Go on ? I need two myself - the bastards collapsed at the weekend.

Has to be very flat WRT the axis ?

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Fuck that - my local clutch supplier machines them FOC when you buy the clutch kit.

Reply to
EMB

I think my ambi has got about 11-12 or so from the last couple of tanks. I'll work it out later (have got it all written down) - and i've been running with the lambda sensor in all the time so i know it has been about right - so youre not too bad. should possibly go a bit higher for a GS. LPG converters reckon 2miles/litre is acceptible for a v8 - which this pretty much is. My car gets 5miles/Litre/25mpg as a comparison

Start trying to fill yours up at the same pump each time and keep track of the mileage and how much you put in each time

I cant see why it would need to be owt special?

Reply to
Tom Woods

I get about 12mpg on LPG, towing a trailer behind burrt. About the same solo!!

-- "For those who are missing Blair - aim more carefully."

To reply direct rot13 me

bURRt the 101 Camper

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200TDi Disco with rotten floor 200 TDi DIsco, "the offroader" 1976 S3 Lightweight
Reply to
Simon Isaacs

So I'm off spec then ? You're getting better mileage with more weight !

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

I'm running SU's though, and a fancy mallory coil, don't know if that makes any difference??

-- "For those who are missing Blair - aim more carefully."

To reply direct rot13 me

bURRt the 101 Camper

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200TDi Disco with rotten floor 200 TDi DIsco, "the offroader" 1976 S3 Lightweight
Reply to
Simon Isaacs

Is the air/fuel gauge working yet? Mine is great now :) (digital readout stuck on the dash)

am looking forward to finding out if this 3.9 is much worse than the

3.5 or even better. I'm finding it takes a lot less revs to do owt! Ive nto gone anywhere near the throttle stop yet :)
Reply to
Tom Woods

hmm. them SU's+the linkages all going spare when the EFI goes in?

Reply to
Tom Woods

No, I need to put it in the Y bend where the two banks join up, and I don't want to do it in situ - job for when I get back.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

thats exactly why i put mine in the front bit of the silencer box - silencer comes off with just 8 bolts and then it falls out but you have to fight the Y piece to get it out from the rest of the exhaust.

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(note - remember to move the flange past the boss before welding it else you have to do it twice!)

Reply to
Tom Woods

There ? I was thinking of in the actual Y piece. Is it hot enough?

I need all new clamps and nuts too, they are all rotted to fsck. Who does stainless ones ?

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Well - mine is working quite happily and will also work poked up the end of the exhaust.

Not Rimmer - when you buy a new exhaust off them the buggers dont include new clamps or bolts or anything.

Reply to
Tom Woods

I think you mean your local clutch supplier builds it into the price of the clutch.

Reply to
SimonJ

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