Oil leak ffs. 300tdi

Is it just dirty engine oil or is it really black, loaded with carbon and smells burnt? Is it 'clean' hydraulic oil?

The power steering pump's not far from where you describe.

It is engine oil, it's not coming from as far up as the head either, is there some kind of expolded digram of one somewhere?

It is using a lot of oil & it's not burning any at all.

The 300TDi Overhaul Manual is on the Estonian site. It has some exploded views at the beginning:

I eventually traced mine to the vacumn pump, they have a tendancy to leak oil from the end.

The vac pump is the other side of the engine matey?

I don't think it's the bit with the belt in as there's no oil dripping out from the bottom bung - correct?

Also, a brand new one at that!

Yes, it's where the camshaft comes out of the block and there's an oil seal in the back face of the timing cover. The likely offending gasket (item 2 on printed page 10) is on the same face that has the 'hockey stick' gasket behind the water pump body. It's between the timing cover and the block.

It might be worth checking that all the timing cover bolts are present and tight. It's them that clamp this gasket.

Agreed - this should be dry and if it wasn't you'd see the evidence out the bottom.

and fitted with all new gaskets etc!!!!

My 200 did a similar thing a short while after I replaced the turbo several years ago, turned out to be one of the oil pipe unions.

-- "For those who are missing Blair - aim more carefully."

To reply direct rot13 me

bURRt the 101 Camper

This has only happened after i changed the water pump last week, come to think of it the three longer bolts where very oily & s*it up. I wonder if i didn't tighten then up enough?

Also had the timing belt done, but this has just manifested itself since my water pump job, those bolt where well manky, i replaced them with new, but could they be hydrualic locked in some way? I didn't exect them to be s*it up & oiled up & generally shiity?

Cheers for the help BTW.

Oil cooler return pipe perhaps I've had both RRC and Disco drip a bit when the unions have unexplainably slackened off a mite. Derek

I've only done one of these but don't recall there being any common bolts between the timing cover and water pump. Did you touch some that you didn't need to? The gunge/corrosion on the long pump bolts is from water leaking at the pump cover gasket or the 'hockey stick' gasket. I don't think that any of the pump bolts enter an oil-filled cavity intentionally.

Have you checked to see if the oil filter is loose. My TD5 did the same and it was a replacement oil filter that just required nipping up with the grabs. Bryan.

On or around Tue, 4 Sep 2007 20:41:36 +0100, "Nige" enlightened us thusly:

mind, they do leak, they're a crappy pump.

I dont they do enter intentionally, there are three longer bolts on the bottom of the water pump, they go right through the casing into the side of the block, as they where s*it up, my mech mate reckons they where verging on leaking anyway, as the bolt ends should not be oily. He reckons to take off the three bolts, clean out the hole & put *plenty* of thread lock/seal on the bolts & tighten them up very tight. They where tighter than hell to get off, but thought it might have been the crud etc.

If that fails, the whole feckin' timing case has to come off for a quids worth of gasket thats leaking. Joy.

Just smear s*it loads of no more nails round the edge of the timing case..

I wouldnt bother too much mate - You'll be getting a different one soon :)

Lol!

NO!

Lee D

Dipstick tube? Seen them come loose before. Badger.

There shouldn't been any need for 'very tight'. If you stop the oil passing up the theads you've solved the problem: thread cleaning and sealing should do that for you. I'd suggest that you don't try a high strength thread lock - you might want to get this apart one day.

Quid's worth - unlikely at LR prices!