Anyone ever rebuild one of these engines? I have lost compression and starting to burn a lot of oil. It has a carburetor (i.e.. not fuel injected and a timing chain i.e.. not belt). I have done a Honda CRX Si and wanted to know if the carb and chain in this model made it more or less difficult to do. Thank for any opinions in advance. wolf
Overhauled my 86 B2000 last May. Pretty much straight foreword except mine had the second generation timing belt (same as B2200) since the first generation was narrower. Had the same problem of oil consumption and loss of compression which was caused by the rings being stuck and the oil ring passages being plugged. The basic engine block is the same whether it has a timing chain or not the main difference being in the front cover. My crank only needed a light polish and could have gotten by without. My head needed all new exhaust guides as that was also a source of burning oil. The block was bored .020" oversize. The carb didn't present a problem as I put a kit in it at the same time as the rebuild. I dismantled and assembled the engine and an automotive machine shop hot tanked the block, overhauled the head, polished the crank, bored the block, turned my flywheel, installed the new pistons on the rods for me (press fit pins) and provided me with bearings and a gasket and seal package for the complete engine. Total cost for all of the above was just under $1,000 Cdn. One word of caution, the vacuum hoses to the carb, intake manifold and pollution devices are a dogs breakfast as there must be hundreds of feet of them and dozens of connection points. No manual I have seen is clear on the routing so be careful to hook them up properly. I wasn't careful and ended up having to turn to a garage for a printout of their Alldata CD reference library for the correct hose connections so the damn thing would run and idle properly after. My B2000 runs like new, gets great mileage (about 540 Km's to a tank) and hasn't used any oil since my last oil change 3 months ago. Regards Lugnut
-- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety"
Benjamin Franklin "Wolfgang Bley" wrote in message news:dSbCb.2009$ snipped-for-privacy@typhoon.sonic.net...
Thanks. Sound like you pulled the entire engine. I was going to leave the crankshaft alone and just do the rings and head. Any thoughts on that? I know what you mean about the "spaghetti" hoses to the carb. That is a night mare . Thanks wolf
Yes I pulled the engine because you can't change all of the seals such as rear crankshaft, rear seal retainer etc without doing that. My rear seal was leaking anyway. You can leave the transmission behind by using a chain and cinch across the frame rails to hold the transmission up. An "in frame" is possible but you will need to hone the cylinder walls and impart a 60 degree cross hatch to seat new piston rings. If your engine is anything like mine was it had a pretty significant ridge at the top of my ring travel. That wear that was probably .006 to .008 would have made for a loose piston fit, a wide ring gap and would have probably only been a temporary stop gap overhaul. Since my truck looks and drives like new and I intend to keep it for some time as I just put a new set of tires on it I thought I'd do the full Monty. Regards, Lugnut
-- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety"
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.