The upgrading continues.

My whiteline suspension kit is still on the slow boat from Aus to the good old US of A (so I can get it cheap along with my Decat).

The Cusco front strut brace is going on this weekend.

And I've just ordered a decent fixed rate Suspension kit because it looks like the original kit has been on since year dot. It's getting a bit bouncy at the front, and the top mounts are definatley starting to rattle a bit.

Kayaba 20% uprated struts front and rear. Eibach Pro 30mm lower 20% uprated spring kit. TRD top mounts front and rear.

Should tidy things up with aluminum diff cushion, and poly diff carrier bushes + the Whiteline kit

  • rear adjustable swaybar
  • front camber bolt kit
  • rear camber bolt kit and poly bushes for: o front control arms, inner, front o front control arms, inner, rear o front swaybar to chassis o rear trailing arms o rear swaybar to chassis.

Should tighten the ride up a little, losing nearly 15 years of slack.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar
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And there's me all happy 'cus my Audi CD player arrived this morning, so long tapes I am going to chuck em out the window on the way home :)

Why do German Car Manufacturers insist on putting Tape players in new cars? They must cost loads more to make as they are full logic jobs, not your usual rubbish

Reply to
Ronny

A tape player is, by definition, rubbish :)

Reply to
DanTXD

"Ronny" wrote

Because the kind of mullet rock gemans listen to sounds even better in ANALogue

Reply to
fishman

Nice, nothing ruins a car like sloppy suspension and theres no point replacing just some of the bits. There should be a vast improvement in it with that lot fitted.

Myself, i've just bought some anti-roll bar bushes (standard) to go along with my new wishbones with are complete with bushes and balljoints. Shock wise i've a new set of Gaz coilovers to go in after *small* bit of trouble with the ones i had.

Reply to
Chet

Gaz stuff is good. It's steel bodied instead of alloy like the really=20 posh ones, but that just keeps the cost down.

Had them on the Estelle and on the Saab.

Did price up Tein Superstreets from a local Jap specialist.

Tein Superstreets arround =A3900 inc VAT (Cheaper than from Tein=20 themselves) Uprated standard stuff from (including TRD top mounts which work out=20 cheaper than standard topmounts from a main dealer) Fensport, just shy=20 of =A3600 including delivery.

Thought about it hard, yes Tein adjustability and pillowball mounts=20 would be loverly, but also harder (heavier springs supplied and pillow=20 ball mounts pass a lot more shock through). Didn't think the extra =A3300= =20 made it worthwhile going back for more treatment for Syatica.

--=20 "Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

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Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

I wasn't so impressed, both my front shocks snapped in half after about 6 months! Fair play tho as soon as i told them what happened they send out new ones (same application, different design) without having to send the old ones back.

Its all too easy to go OTT especially with jap stuff where bits are everywhere. Mines a bit harder, when i was looking for coilovers only one company made them. Top mounts etc are OE only. I was going to get some poly bushes but i work on a 50% rule i.e. if the uprated part is more than 50% more expensive than OE stuff i don't bother. Clutch excluded but i really need a paddle one ;)

I ordered a wideband o2

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sensor a while ago, it was shipped yesterday. It plugs directly into my new ecu so not only can i log all the engine sensor outputs i can now log the wideband o2 aswell which should come in very handy. The one i got is the 2C0 with the display.

BTW

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is seriously recommended!

Reply to
Chet

The TRD ones are harder rubber, rther than ball bearing and metal/poly.

Means they still have a little more give in them, but still firmer, more solid,a nd longer lasting for normal driving than the normal Toyota ones.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Simple economics. They cost about the same to make within a few pennies but they can hit you for a 150 to 300 quid more for the CD player, or you can add a changer to the tape on most of them.

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

Nakamichi would disagree with you there. In fact, so would I. If my Sony K380 were working I'd challenge you to tell the difference between a tape and a CD on that, let alone a nak...

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

good to here about the mods! should handle like a dream! i'm selling my TEIN coil overs as i work over in maldon which is in the middle of no where and anything harder than stock will kill me round the roads my way! so bloody harsh!

still i'm budgeting for window tints this feb and getting hold of a set of original alloys in march to get polished up ready for the spring and maybe some decent rubber on them!

just running the damn MR2 is costly enough :) gotta pay the car off still plus save some back for the killer insurance cost! just going to keep it tidy as 0-60mph in 5.8secs is fast enough for me really :)

Reply to
Vamp

I've got this arrangement and it does make a lot of sense, providing you want your kit to support both CDs and Tapes. There's a lot to be said for the passenger browsing your tape collection in the front and you setting up the multichanger in the boot from your CD collection. The other thing is how many tape decks are stolen these days?

A better design is an MP3 / Wav system integrated into the car, with things like amps and whatnot bolted into places like the boot. The controls will be more direct, e.g. a multi function lever on the steering wheel, and we'll input the audio data digitally, through a cheap digital drive like on a computer with things like memory cards and whatnot as well as DVDs.

Reply to
Questions

The other day I was thinking of setting up a Honda Jazz owners' club. The club magazine would be called Jazz Magazine.

-- Peter

Get Circumcised to e-mail me

Reply to
AstraVanMan

Might not be such a bad thing. See if Fennies have Eibach Springs and Kayaba AGX's for your tubby, when it comes to lowering things a little without becoming a bone shaker. The consensus of the OC was for general road use, KYBs and Eibachs are good enough. If you really want coilovers, either Splurge on Ledas or DMS, or maybe JIC Magics, teins are supposed to be a hard ride, but a feeling like Jelly, compared to those, with the DMS Gold 40mm's being the best of the lot.

Sounds good, just don't go too dark, and get more points to go with that speeding ticket.

No bad thing, as MR2's can turn round and bite your ass if you aren't careful.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

yeah if i feel the need which i don't right now eibachs is probably what i'd get as there about £100 notes if imported from the US hehe.

nope legal smoke tint all round for me :)

yes as demo'd earlier coming home in the wet :) still it's pretty easily controlled in the MKII turbo as it's gradual unlike the MK1 which would snap.

Reply to
Vamp

Good man! I'm finally getting round to replacing my rear dampers on the 205 today. The front has had bilsteins and powerflew bushed wshbones for a while now, so it will be nice to get the rear sorted. Also gonna plumb in my boost gauge as well if i have time :)

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

I'm waiting for SteveH to come along any minute about how I should sell it now, and stop spending money, and put it toward something that doesn't need as much doing.

It isn't a case of it "needs" doing (no dangerous were, or splitting in the bushes, just some age related rattles, it's more a case of "it could do with it sooner or later, so why not do it now with parts that will last longer, and cost less than Toyota ones".

I'm planning that actual performance increases will be limited to a Decat (apart from the cone filter and dump valve already fitted), maybe a stainless exhaust when the original fails, an MBC, and a remapable piggyback ECU to sort out the proper fueling, and ignition timing, gain power and torque, and actually improve rather than decrease fuel economy, because it overfuels across the whole range anyway by default.

With Tvsv disconnected I can make full power in all gears, and an MBC should safely allow me to up the boost from 8psi to 10-11psi safely (when the boost gauge is fitted), and with a remap, should be able to make 250 at the flywheel, instead of 200, and a big wodge increase in torque, and lower in the rev range, because the Decat pipe means that boost will start at arround 1800RPM, instead of 2500RPM, and it won't go flat at 5.5krpm like it does now, it will keep pulling all the way to the 7k redline. Just going for simple breathing exercises really.

Things like hybrid turbos and the like can wait until I know whether the engine can take it or is going to blow a nut somewhere.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

LOL or simply 'jazz mag'

Reply to
Vamp

Jazz Club

'Niiiiiiice'

Reply to
SteveH

Erm, took the words out of my mouth.

You must be getting on for a total outlay of £4k now.

I mean, WTF is the point, given what you can buy for £4k?

Reply to
SteveH

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