1995 Nissan Maxima SE Manual Transmission

I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE with a manual transmission. The clutch first went at 90K miles. After getting it replaced by Nissan, it would slip every once in a while. At about 140K miles I decided to get the clutch replaced, since the first one gave no warning at all. Now it has 178K on it and the clutch went again. I'm trying to decide if it is worth replacing. The car seems to be in pretty good shape, but I'm afraid to fix it and have something else go. It also needs the starter replaced and troubleshooting to determine why there is a draw on the battery when the car is off, and why it stalls until warmed up.

The only things aside from brakes, clutches and tires that have been replaced so far are: Starter Alternator Rear Calipers Oil preasure gauge ignition switch

Any advice on whether to keep or get rid of it would be appreciated.

Reply to
Doug Ritschel
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If you keep it, get some driving instruction. Unless you take this car to the drag strip, there is no reason for 3 clutches in 200k.

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman

Keep it and replace the clutch. It seems to consistantly go every 90K miles. Clutch wear is dependant on so many things, most influential being the driver's habits. Since your clutch wear seems consistent, it looks like the system is OK.

That maxima can go about 300K miles with good care. You're about half way through with it.

The car

Replace the starter yourself, it's a very easy job. OR, re-lubricate it. Look here;

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I used his well detailed site to re-lube my starter when it was acting up.

and troubleshooting to

Possibly bad grounding somewhere? It's an old car and all the ground points have oxidized significanlty. Check things like; The -ve battery cable, it leads to a thick cable that attaches to the metal tranny housing. Alternator connections, but since the ALT has been replaced, the connections may have been cleaned up somewhat.

You can even add a ground kit. Google it up.

and why it

For the stalls,clean your throttle body and make sure to use cleaner that's safe for fuel injected engines. Do not use carbuerator cleaner. It's an easy DIY job which involves removing all the plumbing associated with the air filter housing. With the throttle body exposed you spray the cleaner and wipe untill all the carbon deposits are gone. Use a plastic toothbrush you're about to throw away.

Oh and, if you haven't done so already, I would recommend you change your anti-freeze. Spend a little extra and use Nissan OEM fluid. Why? The water pump replacement job on a 4th gen Maxima is expensive, about $400 or more, and you really shouldn't DIY on that one.

Hope this helps

CD

Reply to
Codifus

troubleshooting to

I've driven manuals for the last 26 years. My first car was a 72 Corolla that I bought in 1979, not sure how many miles were on it since the odometer was broken. It gave fair warning, slowly slipping more and more until I had it replaced. I put at least 70,000 miles on it without another problem.

Put 70,000 miles on the above Corolla. Put about 90,000 miles on a 1978 Corolla. Put about 50,000 miles on a Nissan Pickup. Put around 90,000 miles on a Celica. Never had a problem. Put around 90,000 miles on a Accord. Never had a problem. Put around 90,000 miles on Maxima, before having any problems. Put about 50,000 miles on a Nissan Pickup.

With the Maxima, I had taken it to Nissan for a tune up or oil change around

90,000 miles. They told me that it was hard to put in gear and that I needed the clutch replaced. A few days later, I heard a loud noise and I could move the shifter into any gear with pusing in the clutch. About a week after they replaced it, I was driving around in a mountainous area and it started slipping. Over the next 40,000 miles I noticed it slipping every once in a while going up steep hills. I took it to a private mechanic for the third clutch which lasted 38,000 miles. During the short lifetime of the second and third clutch I lent the car out a lot, so there were drivers other than myself.
Reply to
Doug Ritschel

So where do yo get an oil pressure gauge in your 95 SE? My 96 SE doesn't have one? Did I get cheated?

On a more serious note, my opinion is that Maxima clutches (at least in my 89 and this 96) aren't the greatest. Mine has always made a little "moan" at engagement at low engine speeds in 1st, and never has a real positive feel at engagement. I drive like a little old lady but my intuition is that a couple trips to the dragstrip and that clutch would be done. Same feeling with my 89...although it went to the end (about 300K) without a replacement.

My other car, a Miata of the same year, has a much more positive clutch feel on engagement.

I wondering if some of our faster contributors might have some suggestions on beefier replacement clutches/pressure plates (or maybe oil pressure gauges :))

M
Reply to
Mike

Yeah, that sounds more reasonable. But I would also change the clutch and keep truckin.

Dave

Reply to
David Geesaman

Did I say gauge? I meant switch. This is what is on the bill: ""Tech noted oil preasure switch leaking Story tech found and replaced leaking oil preasure switch" Part $15.00. Labor $40.00.

Reply to
Doug Ritschel

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