I have a ticking n/s cv joint on my legacy estate which I will be removing shortly could anyone who has removed their shaft tell me if (like various Toyotas) it has a seal which prevents the front box dropping its oil or is it a drain the front end diff first job? Derek
Well Subaru dose something different. THe inner joint slips over a small shaft that sticks out of the transmission. The joint is held on using a small roll pin that you will need to tap out using a hammer and punch. When you put things back togrether, you must have the holes for the joint and shaft lined-up correctly, It may look like the pin will go back in if the holes are 180deg off but it won't .
Derek:
Oil seal is in the transmission, no oil comes out. Knock out the roll pin at the inner cv joint to remove the shaft, line up the holes when putting it back. One side of the hole has a chamfer, both on the cv and the shaft on the transmsission. Line these when re-installing. Outer end needs to have the axle nut removed, and ball joint disconnected so you can swing out the wheel hub to remove the axle shaft from the hub, then pull it out from the transmission. Make sure the car is safely jacked (jack stands or hoist). Ed
Thank to Ed and Craig I ordered a Haynes Manual (which Amazon assure me is on its way) but past experience has shown that little things like seals or absence of seals are not mentioned which is why my driveway looks like the Exxon Valdez was parked last week after replacing a driveshaft on a Ford Fiesta Derek
Are you sure about disconnecting the ball joint? I'm getting ready to do this for the first time (on any car) and just want to make sure I have the right instructions. My Haynes manual says to disconnect the "control arm" from the "steering knuckle". Is disconnecting the ball joint an alternate way, or in addition to this?
Just want to get clear as possible befor eI actually do this.
Thanks, Steve
disconnected so
I have just done the job (almost) and the bottom balljoint was not having it so I removed the two bolts from the bottom of the strut tube and separated the hub assembly- it just slides out and the driveshaft then pulls free, cost of bearing remanufacture was £53 plus £6 (?) for a new hub nut all i have to do is put it back in Derek
The ball joint connects the control arm to the steering knuckle. You can remove the 2 bolts at the strut tube but this will throw off the wheel alignment; removing the ball joint doesn't affect the alignment, but if the ball joint mounting is really rusted in place (don't force any bolts or they might break), then it's easier to remove the strut bolts than the ball joint, but needing an alignment check afterwards. If you remove the strut bolts, you could use a bubble level on the hub surface to check the angle and re-set the same angle on re-assembly, and this would be very close to what it was before.
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