OEM Tires, Optional OEM tires, and totally off-the-wall tires

BWahahaha!

Send this to Al, would ya?

That didn't tell me a whole lot. I was looking for insight, not come-uppance...

Always is 30 years.

Hmmmm...one set of 'overinflated' tires with 125,000 miles on them... Another with 85,000 miles... Another with 65,000 miles... And another with 90,000 miles...

Anything froom Goodyears to Bridgestone to Delta.

I think the problem was really getting the cheapest tire I could.

I've been farting around with tires for 30 years, and using different sizes for different effects for 20.

I make sure they fit the rims correctly. I try to make sure they're within a certain percentage of OEM spec. I onspect them myself weekly, I look at them before I start the car every day, and I have them looked at 'professionally' every three months.

The tire company I got to is top notch. If they wouldn't work on this car, Chick would have not put them on.

I'm not 'arguing' about anything. Only someone who is overly aggressive and too 'self-aware' would see it as anything else. Generally agumentative himself.

And my point is proven. Looking in the mirror again, hmmm...?

Oh, say hello to my little PLONK file. Non-comments aren't welcome.

Yup. But I'm more intersted in the tire size on this car than tire inflation. I sometimes carry heavy loads with this car, and would rather just leave the tires close to max pressure than filling/deflating/filling/deflating etc. Like I said, I've been doing it a long time with no ill effects.

I don't 'summarily reject' anything. I take everything into account. I am going to let a few pounds out and see if it makes a difference once I get a free minute...

And you're telling me you're an 'expert?!?!?!

Toyo Proxes T1r

195/45R14 15Lbs. 280 Treadwear MP V Rated Tread Depth 10 Rim Width (Min/Max) 6 - 7.5 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Toyo Proxes Tpt

185/60R14 16Lbs. Rim Width (Min/Max) 5 - 6.5 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If you tried to put the first tire on the rim meant for the second tire, the sidewall would blowout. A real recipe for disaster.

If you don't know this, then NO WAY are you telling me what to do with my tires!!!

So, on my Corolla with OEM rims of 5.5", I had to take a set of wheels off my Celica (6.5") to run the hi-poi 195/45-14s or run the risk of the sidewall flexing too much and blowing the tire off the rim...

Nope. They would both fit on the 6.5" rims you have. And the only real problem with running them on the 5.5 would be tread wear due to the narrow rim.. However I wouldn't want to run the 185/60 on the wider rim. No sidewall protection and you would probably have problems with the bead staying seated as well.

Undeniable fact?? Usually the stuff you put out is more or less correct (bravado and SOB-ness not withstanding), but I need to see a legit reference for this one.

I also want to see what's Horse Schidt about a manufacturer's recommendation for rim widths.

I'll take their word first...

Depends which system I'm using...

Huh? Talk about splitting RCH's...

I can switch to that system, if you'd like...

Not what Bridgestone said. I'll take their word...

[...]

How much does any of that matter in a passenger car? Really, I can understand worry over those stats with a race car since they tend to push the limits, but in an econo? FWIW, running a tire at a higher pressure will reduce contact area as you have stated over and over, but it will also increase ground pressure. I have seen nothing from you addressing the tradeoff--only an assertion that less area means less traction. And with some conditions, such as water on the road, higher ground pressure is far more valuable than contact area. As long as there is enough pressure to keep the side wall from bulging excessively and the tire isn't grossly above the max pressure printed on it, just about any pressure will do. But running low (as most people do since they don't ever look at their tires until one goes flat) accelerates tire wear. He's not talking about race cars, so tire spring rate, sidewall stiffness, and fancy tire dynos are irrelevant. A pressure gauge and some eyeballs are sufficient.

Ah, but I do drive windy, twisty roads as fast as possible.

Since changing from the 185/70-14s to 185/60-14s, I am able to take the twisties an average of about 6 MPH faster. Also, fuel economy increased about 10%. (Yes, allowing for odometer inaccuracies...the 'course' has been measured with two other cars. now all three agree on mileage...)

But, the point is missed.

My original quandry was this: on the old tires, acceleration was sluggish at best, and often going up very short, steep grades required dropping a gear (usually from 4th to 3rd). It would also mean winding out the engine longer into higher RPMs to get any kind of 'adequate' acceleration, esp for a small, light car with a 145 HP engine.

Now, the car FEELS like a small,light car w/ 145 HP. Acceleration is what I would expect, I reach the 'power band' quicker and can upshift to a higher gear at lower RPMs and still have plenty of grunt, whereas before the car would be wheezing under the same circumstances.

This was REALLY the quandry I was looking to answer...why the car took on completely different characteristics by changing the tires...

This looks like the reference I was seeking. Thanks.

Damn, Sam, if you're such an expert, you should know what I'm talking about!

Um, the way the car responds?!

I used to test aircraft components, spacesuits, and do Underwriter's Lab testing. Trying different sized tires isn't Rocket Science...

Yeah. It ain't too hard to figure out...

You don't know what I mean by being within a 'percentage of OEM spec'? Huh? It ain't Rocket Science here. Dooddamath...

Either that, or you're even more clueless than I think you are, no matter how many racing tires you claim to have mounted.

And if you want to continue the insults, exactly *HOW* did you 'mount them', buddy? ;P

And you wasted three responses on the same post.