Hello All,
I have visited this group before for some useful information, and I'm hoping someone can help me, as I really goofed up a few days ago, and may have fried the ECU of my 1989 Toyota Camry LE Wagon, though I'm not yet certain that this is the case.
I changed my oil three days ago, along with the air filter. And since I knew that the large, rubber air cleaner boot (air cleaner to throttle body) was cracked, I decided to install a nice used replacement that I had found on ebay a year or so ago.
While doing all of this, I decided to check up on my distributor's rotor, to see its condition, and possibly replace it, too, if necessary.
Here's where I really screwed up. To gain better access to the distributor, I tried to remove the plug to the what I have now identified as the AIR FLOW METER (AFM). But while I should have first removed the small rectangular-shaped wire clip, I instead removed the two phillips-head screws and gingerly pulled back on the wire. This revealed some long rectangular-shaped copper leads inside where the plug enters. I that this was not the correct way to unplug the wiring harness from the AFM, and rather realized that the rectangular wire clip was the key to removing the plug, so I pushed the assembly back into the AFM and tightened up the phillips screws.
Keep in mind here, that, like an idiot, I DID NOT have the battery disconnected during the aforesaid maneuver.
And when I went to start the car, the motor turned over repeatedly, yet wouldn't start. It didn't even sound like it wanted to start.
I removed one of the plug wires, and put a copper testing wire that I have in my tool box for such an occasion, and had my neighbor turn the motor over while I held the wire about a 3/16" away from a metal bracket in the engine compartment. NO SPARK!
I then retrieved my Toyota shop manual proceeded to test a number of things, using a multimeter.
All of the fuses are good in the fuse box. (e.g. EFI, 7.5 amp, etc.)
The ignition coil checks out fine, via two resistance test values, both within specified ranges.
I could not confirm, however, voltage to the positive side of the coil.
Nor did I receive the correct resistance specifications for the pickup coil in the distributor.
Also, when I used a paper clip to jump the specified terminals in the diagnostics port, there is no steady flashing "CHECK ENGINE" light appearing on the dashboard.
Hence, with this being said, I have the following questions:
- If the fusible link at the positive side of the battery were blown (I forgot to check this, but will today) would the car still turn over, or would the starter not receive power and turn over, as is currently the case?
- If the distributor pick-up were bad, could this explain why the check engine light won't come on, or does that very phenomenon indicate nothing other than a short within the ECU, requiring repair or replacement? (NOTE: I am aware that the LED lights of instrument cluster could be blown, yet that is very unlikely)
- I have a spare igniter, or ignition module. Would it be worth getting this from storage and installing it in the car, or does the distributor come first in order of electrical pathway for this circuit?
- If I need an ECU, will one from 1990/91 models be compatible with my 1989? (I've heard that the ECU was re-designed by Toyota in 1990 or 1991, to improve cold starts, thus may be different)
- Is it mandatory to use an ECU with the exact same part number, and is there any special procedure to installing a used replacement ECU? (i.e. resetting or clearing codes, unlocking anything, etc.)
In close, thanks for any advice or help in this matter. I truly appreciate it. I usually take my 85 yr. old mother to to one or two doctor appointments per week, and need to get this car back on the road ASAP!
Respectfully,
Glen E. Sarkis