CDI Failures

To All:

The CIRCUIT used in the generic CDI modules was quite simple and robust because of it. Failures in shipped, manufactured units was rare beause the circuit test was relatively simple: Power it up and you could hear the inverter singing about three octaves above middle C. That said the input-side of the circuit was working. To test the output you simply unclipped the trigger lead from ground. That would cause the SCR to dischrage the capacitor through the lead to the coil or other load.

Failures in use were usually caused by over-heating or operator error. I fried a unit crossing Laugna Salida, a (usually) dry lake about 70 miles long. The dust got packed into the fins to such an extent than the you couldn't even see the unit. (You can't believe the dust... finer than flour.) Sometimes the heating failures were caused by catching too much air-time. An the cheaply built units, such as the ones from Universal, the heat sinks on the power transistors are not attached to the case (which serves as the ultimate heat sink) but coupled to it by spring-clips wedged between the case and the transistor. Depending on the orientation of the clips inside the case, and how the case is mounted to the chassis, and how much shock-protection the mounting provides, a hard landing could knock the springs out of position. If they didn't short-out the circuit board, the lack of thermal coupling would eventually cause the transistors to fail... often hours after and miles from, the butt-buster that caused the problem.

But the most frequent cause of problems was the guy who put it in wrong. I've seen them tucked up next to the muffler (so as not to clutter-up their All-Original engine compartment), polished to a blinding shine... to match the acres of chrome (and retain lots of heat) and connected in a bewildering variety of ways, none of which matched the relatively simple instructions that come with the unit.

But during the heyday of CDI modules all were offered as kits (Universal did so until they were acquired) and the hands-down favorite reason for failure was improper assembly. ( For some reason I've never understood, most Americans think they are very handy with tools and things.)

Full-flow oil filter, swivel-foot adjusters, vacuum-advance distributor, CDI module, platinum-tipped plugs -- you can LITERALLY double the useful life of your engine, save money, reduce the amount of required maintenance and end up with a vehicle that drives like a real car :-)

Too bad being smart isn't the same thing as being kewl.

-Bob Hoover

PS - 'Singing' -- Low cost CDI modules use inexpensive bipolar transistors. When used as the switching transistors in a DC-to-DC inverter their maximum frequency was about 4kHz. The singing came from the bipolar-wound step-up transformer and was exactly half the running frequency of the oscillator, or about 2000cps... which is about three octaves above middle C.

Modern high-tech CDI modules typically use MOSFET's instead of bipolar transistors, driven by an oscillator chip at about 40kHz. The thing still sings but you can't hear it unless you're a bat.

Reply to
Veeduber
Loading thread data ...

For that you will have to extend your search outside of the USA ;)

No worries, I'll ask mom to come over.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

...............If Kidd is ever able to convince The Department of Homeland Security to actually let you reside in this fair land, some of us are going to have to pay you a 'friendly' visit...............lol

Reply to
Tim Rogers

Reply to
Braukuche

Someone else will answer the full-flow questions, but I'd like to know more about the swivel-foot adjusters because I've had nothing but grief with them. First, the '58 had two broken adjusters. Perhaps they were the wrong brand. Second - and only narrowly related, but still air-cooled, my Triumph Trident had swivel-foot adjusters and the feet over the balls cracked. Finally went to the large 'mushroom' adapters in both and all is well.

Mr. Hoover seems to recommend them nonetheless so I have to believe that either the particular brand I had were the wrong brand, or perhaps applied to the wrong engine. Clarify? Anyone?

Reply to
jjs

..............I'm no expert on this but I can tell you that the '911' swivel-foot adjusting screws that Aircooled.Net sells have been perfectly OK after maybe four or five thousand miles on my '77 bug. I've re-checked the adjustment twice now and valve lash changes were very minimal compared to the Berg screws that were installed by the PO. I can't figure out why the Berg swivel-foots were losing their setting but I'm saving them just in case it was something else that was the problem.

Reply to
Tim Rogers

most are made it Taiwan. You have to get the good ones if you don't want to create more problems then you are solving. We have them, and have the genuine 911 Porsche adjusters which I feel are even better then the Courier, but they do require the same rocker modifications to PROPERLY install them. You can't just screw them in and adjust the valves, your rocker geometry will be majorly catty-whompus.

formatting link
Of course, every other store I've seen will tell you "just bolt em' on an go", but it ain't like that! Our instructions are included at the time of purchase.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

The online description for those parts says, "the rockers must be back-cut .060" Do I need to find a machine shop? And, just to be complete, what /is/ "back cutting"?

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

......................I did it with my bench grinder. (You've gotta be bold and fearless Mike!........)

.................The material that gets removed is under the valve end of the rocker arm so that the screw can have more room while it's being turned out for a larger gap.

Reply to
Tim Rogers

the courier (and 911 adj) head is thicker then the stock adjuster screw, so you can't back out the Courier/911 screw enough to get the proper clearance. Using rocker-shims is a hack-method of getting the clearance.

if you look at the rocker, you'll see you can cut the rocker back about .100" before you hit the reinforcing rib running from the rocker shaft. This is exactly what you need to do. If you use a grinder, you must make sure the grinding media is moving along the LENGTH of the rocker. If you grind "across" the rocker, it leaves valleys that can turn into cracks, because of the way the rocker is being stressed. IOW, you have to finish the grinding in the direction it's harder to do it in. ;-)

These instructions are included when you purchase from ACN BTW, the other guys all just tell you "bolt em' on".

John Aircooled.Net >

Reply to
John Connolly

................uh oh.

...........Well, I'm going to be disassembling everything pretty soon anyway. Those level 3 heads are gonna be far out!

Reply to
Tim Rogers

Bench grinder? /BENCH GRINDER/??? Jeepers, another darn tool.

. . . un-der . . the . . valve end . . . of . . . rock-er . . . arm.

Umm, okay, I had the rocker arm assemblies out and in my grubby hands just last week. (Sound of 54 year-old brain trying to remember what them eight little rocker arms looked like).

I'll study on this one.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

anyway. Those level 3 heads are gonna be far out!

Oohhh, fancy-schmancy!

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

Hehehehehehe

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Full Flow:

Today it is no longer absolutely necessary to machine the case to be able to fit an external, full-flow oil filter. There are pumps out there thet have both an outlet and an inlet port in the pump cover, and nothing goes throug directly. Everything is routed out of one fitting and the return fitting just routes the oil back to the pump body and through there into the oil passage where it was supposed to go anyway.

Another way to do it without machining would be to a) block a stock oil pump outlet hole by tapping it for a threaded steel "plug" which you would then Loctite in place, and b) route the return line back into the case via an adapter that screws into one of the oil pressure control valve bores. (Aircooled.net sells the adapters)

Swivel head valve adjuster screws

I hate the cheapie BugCrap swivel heads, the ones that have a rigid shank and a cup, all one piece, and captured inside the cup is a ball bearing with one side machined flat (that is what meets the valve stem).

They don't fit right without modifications to the valvetrain, and they break easily in higher rpm applications. Have gone through several sets and I no longer install these on any engine. Better to run lash caps and (new) stock adjusters.

Some people say the original Porsche style swivel head adjusters are much better, but I haven't tried those yet.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Reply to
ilambert

....by.....hand?????? Are you crazy??? We have "power tools!!!" =-))))

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

Use only original Porsche 911 swivel feet...

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

John is indeed correct, the only pro to be said of the "proper" courier style is the fact they are lighter....

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

Nothing more fancy neede than a good flat file... ( don't tell anyone I said so...)

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.