Frustrations

Gal calls me up with a "My VW won't run complaint". I go over to take a look and sure enough, it doesn't run. No aircleaner, missing forward, rear and doghouse cooler tin. 009 distributor, crusty looking

34pict-3 sitting on a VW DP intake with the pre-heat pipes cut off. Ultra-cool "Bugpack" exhaust.

So I start with the basics. After replacing the battery I find out that we have spark, but no fuel. Pull the line from the carb, nipple comes out(!). So off comes the carb for an overhaul and a fuel inlet repair. Fuel pump doesn't, so it comes off too so we can get a new alternator style fuel pump.

After I fix the fuel inlet with a file and sleeve retainer per resident expert Bob Hoover's directions, we find out the bottom of the carb is warped to hell. That would explain the gobs of RTV on the bottom that were plugging up the passages, and the two gaskets. Carburetor is junk, despite a relatively young 1993 casting date. Has the generator linkage on an alternator equipped engine. Gal says "Yeah a couple times the throttle stuck on the freeway and I hit like 80 mph". Gee, I wonder why given the gouges into the side of the alternator case that line up perfectly with the bolt on the accelerator pump arm.

Gal doesn't want to spend too much money so I chem-dip it and clean it up anyway. We put it back on with extra gaskets and I hope for the best. Throttle shaft bushings are shot, but at this point it doesn't really matter. If it runs at all it will run like shit and I'm not tooled up to replace the bushings myself.

New fuel pump goes on, packed with grease and a new pushrod and mounting flange. I have her crank and nothing happens, no fuel. I put a vacuum gauge on the line to the carby and manually pull fuel to the fuel inlet. She cranks some more. Still No Fuel with a NEW #*(#$&#*@ pump. Pull fuel pump, and checking pushrod protrusion at the highest point it isn't 13mm per the Bentley manual but the other pump DID work at some point. Install fuel pump a second time, try it again, no fuel delivery. Remove fuel pump again, find pump lever broken off(!).

So off to the FLAPS we march with the pump in one hand and receipt in another. "Never seen that happen before...." according to the guy behind the counter. Bull Shit I'm thinking to myself. To set his mind at ease I buy another mounting block and a couple carburetor base gaskets. He warranties the pump and we head back to the car. I am DETERMINED to make this @**@*#& piece of #*#* run tonight.

New pump gets packed with grease. I test fit the pushrod in the new mounting block and it won't drop through. Mounting block is warped. The pushrod tested straight according to the kitchen counter roll- test, so we put some sandpaper on a stick and try to buff out the bore in the mounting block with limited success. After cleaning and a judicious application of grease to the pushrod it moves freely enough to look like it will go back down after it gets pushed up by the distributor drive gear. So I put the pump on again.

After a few seconds of cranking the filter on the suction line starts to fill with gas. SCORE one for me, finally. After a few more revolutions I pump the throttle a few times and the thing comes alive, sorta. Running like shit, but running. I break out the timing light while the choke is still on just to see where we are at.

Timing was 40 degrees AT IDLE(!!) according to the kewl aluminum degree wheel. I set the timing down to about 9 degrees and it still runs like shit, so I shut down and pull the cap. Point gap was perhaps .006. Re-set point gap, rubbing block is basically gone thanks to the lack of lube on the distributor cam, but the points appear to be new. It runs a little better but still 'like shit' compared to a normal car. It runs like shit compared to a properly assembled VW with all of the 'unimportant' equipment working as it should. It runs like shit compared to my Volkswagen, which runs and drives like a normal car thanks to the fact that I've put as much of it back to factory spec as possible.

Anyway, I drove it, and I listened to the transaxle growl in every gear, probably due to a lack of oil. This 1964 bug has a nice paint job, a nice interior, an alarm, lotsa kewl chrome, and to top it off a

-=total shit powertrain=- that needs to be replaced in its entirely.

It is truly a shame, the longer I stay in this hobby the more depressed I become when I see people BUTCHER these cars with a hatchet. On the upside, this car did have the little spring in the center of the distributor drive gear. That made my day, despite all the other screwups on this particular engine it had that damn spring ;-)

Chris

Reply to
halatos
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Sounds like Mario worked on it......

Reply to
Karl

Update to the sob story that took me a while to fix:

Girl bought a brand new 34pict-3, one of the chinese copies. We picked that up locally, it was finished 10 times better than the bocar carburetors. She also got an SVDA from the bughaus for $149.99. The distributor is a beautiful fine piece of goods. Made in Mexico, but it has a nice finish on every single part. The point gap was correct, out of the box and they even lubed the cam and included a new cap and rotor. Well worth the money.

After installation of the parts it took just a minute to get the carb primed and get the engine started. A few adjustments later after the engine settled down to a nice idle and we went for a drive. Talk about AMAZING, this chinese carburetor is a fine piece of goods by my book. The idle adjustment stayed put and is consistent, the SVDA gives it a perfect take-off every time, and the alternator linkage came pre- installed so no clearance issues. We drove it home after a short test run, and drove it again tonight. The adjustments stayed put, it fired right up every time. I'm very impressed. This carburetor is everything the bocar and the pierburg isn't.

Tonight I fixed the leaky brake line to the master cylinder, tightened the clamp on a leaky axle boot, and replaced a rotten section of rubber fuel line between the frame horn and the engine compartment. I need to build a pass-thru fitting when we drop the engine to replace the tinware.

Back inside the car new rubber bump stops from WCM make the glove box pop open when you hit the button now. The brake pedal that didn't return thanks to an improperly installed return spring was fixed, which of course necessitated pulling the pedal cluster to repair. The clutch cross-shaft has been replaced at some point, but the hole in the shaft was drilled off center so I was unable to push the pin all the way through the clutch pedal and cross-shaft on reassembly. I'll work on that problem later. The new brake pedal return spring worked so well that I found(and fixed) about an inch of free-play at the brake pedal by lengthening the master cylinder pushrod.

I still don't know how to assemble the stock accelerator pedal, so I left the roller pedal in place. I really need some help on this, subject car is a 1964 beetle. It's very different than my 74 super beetle and I haven't been able to find a diagram or a picture for the accelerator pedal. Can anyone help?

Chris

Reply to
halatos

i read an article online at some point that gave the distance from top of pedal to the firewall where the pedal will bottom at full extension.... this dimension was somewhat critical because if the pedal can push the matercylinder's pistons too far it can damage it. This is why the freeplay should be set with the pedal stop and not the pushrod length... that is assuming someone previously has not already "adjusted" the pushrod.... the only time you would really be able to push the pedal to far is when the brakes are in desparate need of adjustment...

not sure if it is in one of the repair manuals, but i have also seen the dimension from tip to eyelet for the pushrod at some point...i can't be any help on either of the two dimensions i have mentioned, but might wanna check on those since you adjusted so much freeplay out of the pedal with the pushrod...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

What is the make of that carb? Just curious..

J.

Reply to
Berg

No clue, there was zero documentation with it and it came in a plain white box. We picked it up at B.A.P. Import parts,

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Chris

Reply to
halatos

Well remember that the brake master cylinder will only allow the pedal to move so far anyway if the hydraulic system is in good shape! If the pushrod only moves an inch, even if you move the pedal back a foot, the pushrod will still only move an inch. :-)

At least that is my opinion and I am sticking with it! lol

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

i agree.. exactly why i said : "the only time you would really be able to push the pedal to far is when the brakes are in desparate need of adjustment..."... this condition could definitly cause a much longer stroke and the possibility of bottoming out....

was just a general warning...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

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I had a look, but carbs did not have a listing. Did it not have any sort of marking on the body? Most Chinese things do,and you are quite right, some of their products are very good.

The thing in China is the fact that the same product may be produced by several plants, and you choose the quality by pricing..

We see this on Scooters and light motorcycles, they appear to be identical, but bears different names on key components. Their quality varies allot...

J.

Reply to
Berg

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Longer stroke & Bottoming out due to a lenghtened pushrod?????? Hmmm I don't see that. But yes you are right that the adjustment of the shoes or a hydraulic failure could cause bottoming out. Pushrod would not directly cause that problem though.

I do see a problem if the pushrod is too short and if there is a problem with the brake adjustment or a failure of the hydraulic system, the pedal would hit the floor and the pushrod would not fully push in the pistons in the master cylinder.

The master cylinder will only allow the pedal to travel so far! PERIOD!

At least that is how I see it! This is my opinion and I am sticking to it! ;-)

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

you answered it yourself, but you don't see it? okay... it's simple...if you lengthen the pushrod you have the potential for a longer stroke before you either bottom the piston in the master cylinder or hit the firewall...those are the only two positive stops if you have excessive travel due to misadusted brakes or a partial failure... it really isn't that big of a deal, as i said in my first post, and the fact that you "can't see" it doesn't make it any less likely...lots of folks "can't see" a little ole fuel filter being a problem in the engine compartment... lots of folks "can't see" a lot of things...that makes the vw world go round...enjoy. PERIOD..(that said, in capital letters, obviously makes it "case closed"... @@)

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

Sounds right to me!

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

LOL...Dave, you da man...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

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