Grindingbellhousing...

More help needed :) Can you point me to a guide on were and howmuch to grind out '61 bellhousing to fit a 130tooth flyweel?

I already converted my starter. Local machine shop replaced the pinnion and kept the original 6 volts bushing size, neat job for US$10).

Reply to
Eduardo Kaftanski
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The easy way is to just hang the engine on the tranny and use the flywheel itself to clearance the bellhousing. Turn the engine a bit (big wrench on the pulley nut) to grind some material off, then tighten the nuts a bit. Turn the engine some more....

Reply to
Max Welton

Whoa! Isn't that the way one engine builder clearances his stroker cases? Was it the red engine or the green one? :)

Reply to
J Stafford

On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 18:57:23 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@stafford.net (J Stafford) ran around screaming and yelling:

the pretty yellow ones... J

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

I read John Henrys tale about that... is that easy?

Reply to
Eduardo Kaftanski

It really does work. Make it even easier on yourself still and run the engine on the ground and let it do the work. Read the story of how I "learned" at

formatting link
-> tech help -> Using a 12V flywheel in a 6V transmission -

Reply to
John Henry

Reply to
John Henry

Would it work if the tranny is in the car?

Reply to
Eduardo Kaftanski

Reply to
John Henry

will report back :)

now have to actually get the engine assembled... see pulled studs thread :)

Reply to
Eduardo Kaftanski

I don't think there IS an exact measurement of how much of the hump to remove. You just take a good look at a regular 12V bell housing. Go back to your 6V bell housing and start grinding. I stuffed rags in the bellhousing to keep the metal powder under control. I've tried the turn-the-engine-then-tighten-the-bolts technique but I thought that was more work than just grinding the damn hump away. The other method of using a running engine to do the grinding is great if you have a method of running the engine on the floor (gas & battery supply) and an uninstalled tranny. Otherwise just grind the hump away as best you can and then attempt to install the engine, if it binds turn the engine in few rotations (this will score the hump and indicate how much remains to be removed), grind away the remaining material and install the engine. Your initial start-up will remove any hump material still in the way. Put your feet up and take the rest of the day off. You're out of the strain of the doing and into the peace of the done.

ogg

Reply to
ogg

I like that :-)

James

Reply to
Juper Wort

I dont really know where I have to grind... but looking back old posts, I came across a picture one of you sent me that was named grindingbell.jpg :) I used it to install the fork, ignoring the gringing part.

Looking at that picture... the only place to grin is the bottom part?

Reply to
Eduardo Kaftanski

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