Anybody know of anybody who carries these? I've been looking all over the net and can't find any. I will be installing adjusters on the beam also but everything I've read states that I can only expect 2" of extra travel from adjusters alone. If anyone has any links to internet sites covering these procedures or parts suppliers I'd greatly appreciate it! Thanks..........
Mac
75 Baja - in progress
69 Bus - finishing body work after Bajas complete
70 Ghia - after the Bus is complete will tear into and decide if it's worth keeping
On Annie ('63 yellow baja - pic in the photo section at
formatting link
) I installed the adjuster so that it goes wayup. I had to remove the suspension stop to do so, & it's really stiff (butit's great for a little speed over rough stuff). Also, use larger diametertires. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I was kind of hoping to keep a decent feeling ride on the street seeing as it will be driven offroad only a couple of times a month. I guess I'll just try the adjusters first to see how I like the lift.... Thanks for the reply.
Mac, You can always cut & twist the bottom tube & weld it back together, as well as adding the adjuster. I got to thinking, though; if it's a ball joint front end you can't go very far with it. Best to swap out to a link-pin king-pin frontend for off-road use. BTW the ride never bothered me on the street. The only time the stiffiness really rattled my backside was on choppy dirt roads, & all I had to do was speed up a little so that the suspension worked better. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
The two aren't interchangeable. The link pin axle is built around torsion tubes that are spaced differently from each other than ball joing torsion tubes. So if you try to fit a link pin axle centerpiece onto a ball joint pan, you can only get one tube to line up. No go.
Next thig you will think of is probably just replacing the swing arms and spindles. I believe this won't work either, for the exact same reason: the torsion bar spacing from each other is different and it would force the swing arm geometry to get all screwed up. If they even fit.
When you convert over to link-pin beam for a baja, you're grafting on the frame head also (firewall forward). Very common for serious bajas. I believe that is what he meant.
Jason in Albuquerque - using the lifted Thing front suspension on my Haja for now...
frame head also (firewall forward). Very common for serious bajas. I believe that is what he meant.
******** I couldn't remember offhand what had to be done for the conversion. It's been a couple decades since I've done any serious work on bugs (except for building the shortened blue bug in the mid '90s - pic at
formatting link
on the "About Me" page). I think someone made anadaptor kit at one time too, although I never used one & don't know whatit included. I *will* say it's a good idea to convert, on any off-road car that sees anything very rough at all. The ball joints are a weak link on those frontends. You also need to weld some thick-wall tubing over the tie rods, as the tend to bend very eaisly (even the chrome-moly aftermarket replacements). If you're just doing trail riding then the ball joints are fine. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Thats bull, the ball joint front end is stronger than the Link pin in stock forum. The main reason offroad vehicles usually swap to over is that you can get more travel out of a link pin beam. You also need to weld some thick-wall tubing over the tie rods,
You can simply take that sway bar that your gonna take off the beam and cut it up and put it inside the stock tie rods. But, if you do any beef ups to the tie rods you also need to brace the steering box, and maybe even gusset the steering arm too. If you just do the rods, you'll now break something else (i'd rather have a bent tie rod than a broke steering box out in the woods).
If you're just doing trail riding then the ball joints are
Ball joint beams are actually pretty tough. When you put adjusters on (both top and bottom, why do it half-assed) don't overdo the "lift" as you will over stress the joints. I belive that you can use the "lowered" ball joints because they are clearenced a bit for a little more free travel. Also when you are putting those adjusters in, since you got the welder out, go ahead and run a bead up and around the shock towers for added strength and even a a tackweld here and there on the bottom of the ball joints. Oh and for the OG question of who sells the spindles: Jatech ( I have thier 3" "lift" spindles on mine) which is mainly sold through SoCal imports and I think a few others too. I would reccomend going to these guys though:
formatting link
likely cheaper (and a better done spindle). And the BEST setup to date (other than frame head swap and lots of $$ in high end longtravel parts) is to get your hands on thing 181 parts. the trailing arms and spindles are configured differently than a type 1's, you get and instant 2.5" of lift and the joints are positioned better. use the trailing arms and spindles together and they are a direct fit to the beetle beam.
******* Really? I find it hard to believe that a ball joint with a bolt 1/2 the diameter of a link pin is stronger. I've never seen a link pin break, but I have seen ball joints break.
the tie rods you also need to brace the steering box, and maybe even gusset the steering arm too. If you just do the rods, you'll now break something else (i'd rather have a bent tie rod than a broke steering box out in the woods).
******* I agree that it's a good idea to beef up anything you can, But Annie still has a stock steering box & non-gusseted steering arm. The tie rods have the thick-wall tubing welded over them, & the only other bracing is the torsion tube braces (back to the body). It's been in all kinds of rough stuff, including being in the air over friend's heads (& actually coming down against atree - thus the reason for the tube braces :-). Nothing else has ever given me any trouble (other than the tie rods before I re-inforced them).
Sounds like the Thing parts are the way to go. I have other plans for Annie (like Brat 4wd drivetrain & custom-built suspension), but I doubt I'll be able to get to it for awhile...(things are just no going well at this time). ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Will my trailing arms mount to the spindles and also will my existing brake drums and hardware work with thing spindles? I just completely rebuilt the brakes and am not interested in spending like $300 + on swapping everything over to a thing front end..... $60 a peice sounds pretty good though for a 3" lift if that's all I need to buy!
No, the 181 traling arms must be used on order to fit the spindles. People have machined the type 1 arms to fit the 181 ball joints but its not a commmonly done thing (not really worth the time/effort from what I have heard). Brakes should be a direct swap for you. Allthough some longer hoses would be in order, you'll probably want S/S hoses if your offroading anyway. Mark Detro Englewood, FL
The brake hoses are thoe one component that I didn't change out because the were obvioulesly very new. Not a problem switching brake hoses to stainless steel.... actually sounds like a good idea on an offroad machine! But looking at all the money it would cost me to put Thing front spindles on my beam looks like it will cost alot more than I am willing to spend for the "Ocasional Off-Roader". Best stick with weld in adjusters and some taller tires. Thanks for the info Mark....
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.