How much money to put into a 1993 240?

I have a 1993 240 wagon, which I love. The body is sound, without any rust problems. But there are several things that the car needs to have done to bring it fully up to speed, to the tune of just north of $2000. My question to other 240 lovers is, now much money would you put into your 240 wagon before you'd feel like you were throwing your money away? The thing is, even if I decided not to do the repairs and instead get another car, I'd just start shopping for another 1993 240 wagon. So is it more prudent to just invest in the 240 I have? Feedback would be welcome. Thanks.

Reply to
Patricia Butler
Loading thread data ...

IMO as much as it takes, as long as the body is solid and the car isn't rusty. 1993 was the last year they made the 240, so *any* 240 you find will be at least that old. The things that wear out or break on any 240 will likely be worn out or broken on another one, and it's not unreasonable to drop $2K taking care of all the neglected maintenance on any older used car you get. Don't worry about the cost vs the value of the car unless you intend to sell it. Generally speaking a car is not an investment, you are paying money to have transportation. Look at it this way, the cheapest new car you could get, some crappy Kia or something would cost at least $8K. Put half that into fixing up a nice 240 and you'll have a FAR superior car. Buy a brand new car in the same class as a Volvo and the value will drop more than $2K the moment you drive it off the lot. You don't have to dump a fortune into it at once, just make a list of things it needs, prioritize, and then peck away at it a little each month and you'll have a car that keeps getting nicer with age. Take good care of the cosmetics because those are getting hard to find, the mechanical bits are still readily available. If you keep it long enough it might even be a valuable classic some day. Few cars are as recognizable as a 240 wagon.

Reply to
James Sweet

I just went through this self-discussion. $2000 is $167 a month. Can you find a new or low-mileage used car for a payment of $167 a month? If you're going to buy another 1993 245, you'll still probably have to put $2000 into it...

I fixed my 1990 240 instead. And have a bit left to do among things I know about (new strut mounts, replace the hood release cable which broke at the lever end, replace a few trim pieces in the interior and on the body around the bumper).

Reply to
Tim McNamara

i recently had to shoot Dagmar (my 1976 245) -- well 7 years ago. it was traumatic. the mechanicals were all doable, but he had become "special". if the interior & exterior are all good, keep it, but realize that you have reached the point when cost of operation will just rise. there have been no Volvos built since 2000, but some of those are really nice & cheaper than a Kia. i stole my 2000 r from a toyota dealer (would a realota dealer have had better security?). he had no idea what he had & i was first. sometimes it pays to get up @

4:00 am.

i know this is emotional. get a newer Volvo for transportation. private sales of cars are cheap right now, but here are some thoughts. put your 240 out to pasture. drive him on weekends & slowly restore him. he WILL become a classic. give him to a younger friend or relative & when they wrap him around a tree just be happy they were driving a Volvo.

Reply to
Richard W Langbauer

With most other cars I would have said ' better the devil you know' if it's not too bad. But with a 240 I say 'better the angel ( ugh - couldn't think of a better word in this context ) you know'.

If the bodywork is good as you say there is no question as to what you should do. Consider yourself privileged that you have such a good car and spend what is needed ( over time as you prioritise what is needed ).

I have 2 x 1988 240 GL's and both are daily drivers for my wife and myself and I've had each several years. Most parts are easily available and there is a good fount of knowledge on them on the Internet, especially Volvo forums. I do most of the repairs ( not many needed ) and maintenance myself with very occasional use of a mobile mechanic across the road for things I need help on. If you are not able to look after it yourself find yourself a GOOD mechanic or car enthusiast to do it for you. They are quite easy on the maintenance front - buy yourself a Heynes or Bentley manual - your occasional use of a mechanic would have a guide to use then. ( Dare I say it ) - get yourself some overalls and a good tool kit too - their cost will be refunded many times.

Here in the UK old Volvo's ( esp 240's ) are much cheaper to buy than in the US. Compare 240 auctions on eBay.com ( USA ) and eBay.co.uk and you will see we are quite fortunate here in the UK where ( to many, many misguided souls ) a

240 is thought of an old man's car. Also petrol is much more expensive here which reduces their appeal. But petrol is only 1 part of the cost of car ownership, TCO is what you should look at. Though they have seemed to be rising in value somewhat recently.

My first 244GL which I bought in 1982 was a 1977 model and I paid £1800 for it privately. It was an Auto with leather interior and sun roof etc and was top spec in

1977. I had it 13 years with just 1 expensivish repair in that time and sold it in 1995 for £180 still running well. I bough a different Volvo, one of the non Swedish ones ( those cars are different ), a 360GLT ( don't think you had them in the states ), then a 440 Xi ( again non Swedish ). They don't last like the 240's do. I sold the 440 and replaced it with a 4 years older 240 in much, much better condition, that was a good move. The 240 Auto I bought in 1994ish to replace the 440 cost me £250 ( that's not a misprint ) and was in excellent condition. I had to replace the headlamp reflectors but the remaining expenditure over the following 6 years was just for regular maintenance items.

May I suggest you join the forum at the UK Volvo owners club ( it's free and there are many international members ). You will find any help you need there by just posting your query. ( I'm c_lee on that forum ).

If it has good bodywork as most do - keep it.

I think I should stop now, I'm sounding like a fanatic.

Reply to
clonet

Used cars in the UK seem to go for peanuts in general, not just Volvos. Beats me why they devalue so quickly over there, but then American cars do that here, at just a year or two old they tend to be worth a fraction of their original cost.

As for the fuel economy, a well maintained 240 with a manual gearbox can do better than 30mpg (US Gal), it compares favorably with many modern cars, especially for a midsize luxury car.

Reply to
James Sweet

It's weather & salt. CA has neither. my last two volvos were assembled in Halifax & Ghent. i have driven a 360 but not in the US or CN they do not meet the safety or EPA standards. the 240 is already a classic, but so is the 544 & the 1900 & wouldn't drive either day to day. the best actual Volvo that you can still buy is based on an 850 platform

-- e.g. an 850 or v70. still cheap, luxurious (hell i have a race car & until i rip them all out she has all leather seating & a seven speaker stereo. wicked pissa.)

uk cars are also cheaper beacause no one else drives assbackwards.

Reply to
Richard W Langbauer
Reply to
Patricia Butler
Reply to
Patricia Butler

"Patricia Butler" wrote

I did...

formatting link
of 8 say they're expensive, and I think I agree.

Maybe I'm just used to doing my own work (and I don't know their hourly rate, so I can't really comment on the big-dollar jobs), but some items do stand out as a little.... "extra"-pricey. Example: #11 - Air filter - Maybe $10 + 30 seconds to install?

And isn't #3 the same as #12?

Reply to
MasterBlaster

An important item, timing belt replacement needs to be done every 80,000 miles IIRC.

He already had the belts off for #1 so it makes sense to do it then.

#9 seems pricey to me. Unless there are problems like a plug being stuck in the head, this takes about 15 minutes. This price should include new plugs and wires IMHO.

That's way pricey. $15 for the filter and about 15 minutes labor. Unless he's also replacing the airbox thermostat, which takes another 15 minutes or so. If the preheater hose is still connected and the airbox thermostat hasn't been replaced, it should be to protect the air mass meter.

Duplicate of #3, so already done. I wonder why was it $49 at #3 but $135 here (except maybe as part of the labor done for replacing the timing belt).

Brakes are good. ;-)

And may you and your 240 wagon have many more happy years together. My

1990 240 hit one off those chunks of time this summer where lots of stuff wore out or broke in short order and needs to be replaced- but the car drives better than ever now! 27 mpg from Door County WI back home to Minnesota a couple weeks ago.
Reply to
Tim McNamara

The 240 Auto I bought in 1994ish to replace the 440 cost me £250 ( that's not a misprint ) and was in excellent condition.

Erm - that was a misprint - the year was 2004 but the price is correct and that was what I was refering to re misprint. The misprint was on the year.

.
Reply to
clonet

Really puts into perspective how much I save by doing this sort of stuff myself. It'd probably cost me $500 to do everything on that list, not factoring in the value of my time.

Reply to
James Sweet

I don't think their prices are *too* out of line, besides, sometimes you get what you pay for, and I don't see anything on that list that smells of BS. An air filter for a 240 is ~$15 for the part as I recall, and changing it takes a lot longer than 30 seconds, figure 10-15 minutes. I usually have to unbolt the air mass meter to disconnect the hose and then sometimes it's a fight to get the cover on and off with the radiator hose in the way. It's not a huge task, but the price is not excessive for a business, there's a lot of overhead beyond what the mechanic gets paid.

Reply to
James Sweet

yeah, i never did understand the placement of that air filter cover. you can sneak it in but i think i fixed the problem by renewing the hose w/ something non-standard. something that no licensed mechanic would ever think to do because of the liability.

as a retired general contractor i'm intimate w/ the costs of doing business. if you don't include p & o you soon become an ex general contractor. if they stand behind their work the prices seem fine.

Reply to
Richard W Langbauer
Reply to
Patricia Butler

Many of the items on your list you could (learn to) do on your own. They're not terribly technical or require special tools or knowledge. My sister does most of the maintenance on her Saturn... Well, dad did help her with the spark plugs, and I helped dad figure them out. Creative (silly) design, that Saturn 4 cyl.

And don't let these guys fool you. An air filter is a half hour job and at least a scraped knuckle or two... on my '83 anyway. Maybe it's easier to get at on later models, I dunno.

Reply to
clay
Reply to
Patricia Butler

Car maintenance isn't for everybody. I could learn to hunt and get my meat that way, but it's not something that appeals to me when I can just go pick it up at the supermarket, even if I pay more. I enjoy working on my car but I can understand why someone wouldn't.

Reply to
James Sweet

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.