it will start but only after tuning off for about 5 minutes. it will start to chug and then starts. then it will start right away everytime. leave it over night and its back to running the starter for over 4-5 minutes until it catches. what up with this
Need new glow plugs or else the glow plug fuse is blown.
Lynn
I am not sure exactly what you are saying, but it sounds like either a leak in a fuel line allowing it to drain back into the tank, or it it only happens when cold (like below freezing - warmer if the compression is down) then it may be a glow plug issue. If that is it, remember that glow plugs can be checked without removing them and they don't have a fixed live. If one is out that's all you should try and replace. Don't try to replace a glow plug unless you know it is bad (resistance check will confirm that). Trying to replace them can create a much larger problem if the break off half way out for example. They are not like spark plugs that you routinely replace.
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My theories........... Possibly the little electric shut off valve in the Injection Pump is not fully sealing so when the engine is off air gets into the fuel lines. Then the pump has to push out the air and suck up the fuel from the tank. Look for bubbles in the lines after you shut off the engine or when you first get it started.
Or it could just be the glow plugs or its fuse or the temperature sensor or the relay. :-)
Gotta test things with a 12 volt probe or meter!
test the glow plugs first.
If you have a lot of miles on the engine, you may have a worn seal on the injection pump shaft. It keeps air out of the pump. The seal can be replaced but it is labor intensive since you have to pull the pump. Straight forward after that. If you have over 150,000 miles on it, consider also changing the water pump, new timing belt, and the oil seals on the belt end of the engine block since they are due and you have it apart. You will be good for another 150K miles then!
Regarding glow plugs, the most common failure is a cracked 50Amp glow plug fuse. They crack right through the 'A' stamped in the fuse! You can't see it until you remove the fuse and it falls out in 2 pieces. I fixed mine with a section of lamp cord stripped and terminals crimped at each end. Just long enough to connect to the fuse block terminals and after the first terminal was crimped on, pull the insulation off and then crimp on the second. 12 ga. cord. Blows a little slower than stock but good enough for a 16 year old car.
81 Rabbit Diesel LS 300,000 miles - sold :( 86 Jetta TD 265,000 miles - Used body parts on 88 Jetta Carat, kept diesel drive train for another, future, project. 89 Westfalia 2.3L Vortex Motor 140,000 miles on body 91 Jetta ECOdiesel 135,000 miles 93 Corrado SLC VR6 105,000 miles 05.5 MkV Jetta TDI with DSG
Doctor Dave,
I am not seeing any bubbles in the fuel lines and the glow plug fuse is intact. I would like to check the other components you suggeested. Where is the temp sensor and relay located? Are there any test that I can conduct to check these components?
Thanks in advance,
Bryan
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
Well I would think that if the temperature sensor was defective the Glow Plug Light would not light for over 10 seconds with a cold engine.
If you don't see any bubbles in the fuel lines then I think it is electrical. Check for power at the glow plugs when you first turn the ign switch on and the GP Light comes on. This will check the sensor, the glow plug fuse and relay. If power then I would suspect the glow plugs are faulty. If no power then suspect that fuse and you can bypass it temporarily or just test the two sides of the fuse with the glow plug light on. You should get
12 volts + on both sides of the fuse with the glow plug light on. Sometimes the fuse looks intact until you remove one of its securing screws and then it falls apart. :-)There are some tests you can do to see if ALL of the glow plugs are working since if you measure the ohms each one makes up about 1/4 of the total. I think you can remove the power lead going to the glow plugs at the fuse. Test it with your Ohm meter I just usually remove the power rail (if that is what it is called) from the #4 and maybe #3 glow plug and test them individually and test #1 and #2 while they are still connected to that rail.
JMHO
keptdieseldrive train for another, future, project.
hi, thank you all for you input. it turns out that cylinder number three is down to 200lbs on a compression test. tech said that the starter can not turn it over fast enough to start it. its either a burnt valve or the rings. its parked, too expensive to fix. thanks again
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