I have a 99 GMC suburban k1500 with 84000 miles on it. I change the oil ever
3000 miles with vavaline 10/30.Then I switched to castral synth blend
10/30,but from what I understand this is not a real synthetic.Im thinking of
going to mobil 1 now. My question is if I do go to mobil 1 should I continue
changing it out every 3000 miles(This can get kinda expensive)are can it go
Are should I just stay with the regular oil?
I have a '99 Chevy Silverado K1500 and I just changed over to mobil 1
synthetic at 90K miles
I changed the oil and filter again at 91K miles and I'm going to do it again
at 94K miles.. then start going every 4K miles..
But honestly, for awhile I'm going to watch it, if it looks like it's
getting kinda nasty at around 3K i'll change it anyway..
Just what i'm gonna do..
oh, and maybe it's in my head, but I really do feel like my motor runs
better on synthetic, acceleration just feels, smoother. I dunno..
If I am not too late, you should take a little time to research AmsOil 100%
Pure Synthetic Products. I believe you will find that M1 is a hybrid, not a
pure synthetic, plus, independent lab reports that M1 does no perform as
well as AmsOil. You will like the 25000/12mo oil changes, plus, if you are
really sincere, install a dual-filtration system. Synthetic only needs to
be changed as a result of contamination, it virtually NEVER breaks down. The
cleaner it is kept, the longer it can stay in the crankcase. I have been
using AmsOil products for over 30-years now, and have always been extremely
If you want more information, email me or go to www.amsoil.com for more
info. The results don't lie...check it out!
Amsoil is snake oil. They refuse to allow their oils to be certified, and
sell their products in a mlm scheme. I've seen a number of dis-satisfied
And to push amsoil by discrediting Mobil1? Unbelievable. Take a trip over
Amsoil is one of the best synthetics available. Amsoil is sold to
dealers who then sell it to users, just like every other lubricant is
sold that is not mlm it is standard business practice.
Certified by whom, they have the first API rated synthetic, and all the
oils I have used have the API ratings on them.
http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/sequence_3f.htm is one of the
tests that is run. Notice the API CERTIFICATION...
Oh and in case you didn't notice AMSOIL is a supporter of Bobs site. And
anything on there about Amsoil is positive, only bad thing is the price
"Christopher Brown" < email@example.com> wrote in message
Let me separate my thoughts into two groups.
1. I think 90% of Amsoil is hype.
2. The reason I pointed him to that site is that he can get the truth about
Mobil 1 there, instead of being oil ignorant.
Just to throw in my 2 cents,
I switched my little S-10D from Rotella-T to Rotella Synthetic 5w40, and
there was an immediate difference. My peekid little 2.2l diesel can now
hold highway speed into a headwind in 5th gear, and my fuel mileage went
from 26mpg to 28mpg. The only difference was the switch to the
I am sold on synthetic oil, and have been for years.
Back in the bad old days I ran my 1987 Toyota Tercel 4WD wagon 77,000
miles with just 4 oil changes by using Mobil 1, and following Mobil's
recomended regimen of changing the filter every 3000 miles, and changing
the oil at 25,000 miles. At the time I sold the car it had no oil
related failures, and in fact never had an oil related failure.
The car finally died when it popped a radiator hose, and the moron wife
of the friend to whom I sold the car drove it across town with no
coolant in it. Cracked the head and block.
Mobil 1 is a 100% synthetic. And you can go 25000 miles between oil
changes. When Mobil 1 first came out, that was the recommended interval.
Check out http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html for a
real life study.
I'm running a 95 4.3, and can voutch for the lack of performance that
the engine has on acceleration in the full size. That being said, I did
feel a little bit more responce with my first synthetic oil. I've used
a couple of different brands. Now as to the age, thats where it can get
risky. I've heard reports of some motors that have very high milage
that are running fine die when a switch is made. The hypothosis was
that sludge and some other things were holding seals and gaskets
together, so when the synthetic came in, they washed away the gunk,
seal/gasket/whatever failed, dead motor.
My advice for the whole two cents it might be worth is to make a gradual
change, the motors i heard that sort of problems one were 300k mile
motors, not something like yours. At that stage, it's hard to say. Wil
the added protection and price balance out on a motor that is getting
rather old worth it? But if you change over i would make it gradual,
replacing one quort at a time. If you do that, don't bother buying
blends, because you will have made a blend in the crankcase, where you
know what it will be, unlike mixes in the bottle, who knows what
percentage is synthetic.
Best of luck to you and that nice little motor.
I switched a previous motor of mine (350 Chevy in an Impala) which had 200K+
(I say 200K+ because the odometer quit working around 185K). The motor was
still so strong when the car fell apart that we took the motor out and sold
the frame/body to a demo derby guy for parts. We opened the motor, and it
still looks great on the inside, and we figure it had syth for 45k or so.
That motor sits in the garage and evetually will make it into an early 80's
LeMan's my dad has. The only risk of moving to synth is leakage. If your
motor leaks currently, it'll leak worse with synth. With 180k on your
motor, I'd flush the motor at oil change, and then only run your first batch
of synth 1000 or so miles, as it'll clean enormous amounts of buildup out of
the engine. When we switched the 350, the oil that poured out on the first
change was dirty beyond my wildest expectations, as 1000 miles doesn't
normally do much to the color of the oil.
Also, some people do use very extended intervals with synth oils. Myself, I
stick to 5-6k on my oil changes.
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