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Ignition Key and Start Problem

I've read a few posts about stuck ignition keys, and some of them hint that this may relate to starting problems. I don't understand enough about what goes on in the ignition switch to figure this out, so I would be grateful if someone could explain it to me.

Here's the problem. The truck is a 1994 Suburban K1500 4WD with

213,000 miles. When the engine is running, it runs very well, but just recently it has failed to start sometimes. The engine turns over, but I get no sounds like ignition is occurring.

When it won't start, here's what I can tell you:

1) When the key is in the start position, I can hear something what sounds like a fuel pump. 2) The key got stuck in the ignition last night. It wouldn't come out of the start position. So I could crank it, it wouldn't start, and it would only back off to the run position. 3) As for the stuck key, I tried moving the steering wheel, shifting the transmission (automatic, on the column). This didn't work. 4) This morning, I pulled one of the spark plug wires and turned the engine over, and I have spark. (When I did this test, the engine started, so lack of spark might still be the problem.)

The stuck key problem started a few month ago, but I haven't had the problem for quite awhile, so I assumed it was a badly cut key. When the engine wouldn't start a couple of days ago, the key was not sticking. Then last night when the engine wouldn't start, the key was stuck. I had it towed home.

I disconnected the battery last night and gave it a full charge. This morning I hooked it back up. I could hear the fuel pump running.I tested for spark (#4 above), and could see the spark. While doing this, the engine started. I shut it down and the key came out easily.

Is the key and ignition switch the problem? If so, how?

Thanks, Jim

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley
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You might have corrosion on the positive battery cable/terminal connection. Take the positive terminal off. It has 2 cables attached. One of the cables feeds the starter, the other feeds everything else. Split the rubber boot and separate the two terminals and the spacer washer. There will likely be a lot of corrosion here. Wire brush everything good and soak in baking soda solution, then wire brush it again. Once you have bright metal, reassemble the terminals, washer, and bolt. Now there are two schools of thought here for what to do next. One says to coat the terminals with vaseline to inhibit corrosion. The other says to coat the terminals with an insulating rubber compound that you can brush on. I have used the vaseline solution with great success. Be carefull around the battery after this, as there is an exposed 12 volt source.

KenG

Reply to
KENG

Do not confuse the ignition switch which is mounted on the top of the steering column at its base, with the key and lock assembly located below the steering wheel.

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

I would be stunned to find out that the key not coming out would have anything to do with a no start especially on a vehicle that wasn't equipped with a key-based theft deterrent system.

Reply to
Meat Plow

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---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I think I understand you. So i my case, the key is stuck in the lock cylinder for some reason. My have something to do with no start, maybe not.

One other thing that might be worth mentioning:

For several months, when the ignition key is inserted and turned to the start position , I hear a very loud tapping sound coming from somewhere in front of the firewall on the passenger side. The tapping (about 4 per second) continues for about 15 to 20 seconds after the engine starts. When turn the key to off, the tapping occurs again for the about the same amount of time, even when the key is removed. I pulled each fuse in the fuse panel by the brake release, and couldn't get the tapping to stop. I disconnected the battery (when the engine is off), and the tapping stops. I considered this to be just an annoying noise that I couldn't figure out, but now I'm wondering if it's related.

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Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley

Ken, Thank you. I don't know what the battery terminal would have to do with it. What's your theory about that? The battery terminals are very clean, and always have been. The battery charges well, also. (It will discharge after about two weeks of non-operation, but the truck has been driven nearly every day for the last few months.)

For the time being, I'm assuming that the same is true under the rubber insulation. But if you could explain a little more, I might be ready to take it apart.

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley

Apart from the tapping sound I mentioned in one of the other posts, I tried starting the truck a couple times this afternoon. It operates fine, with no hint of a problem. The key operation is as smooth as if it were new (using the same key that was stuck last night).

I don't want to drive this until I figure out what the problem is. AAA might cancel my membership if I ask for another tow :-) !

Reply to
jim_nospam_beasley

Jim, THe theory is that there are 2 cables in the one terminal. A bad connection might affect one or both of those cables. One cable goes to the starter only the other feeds the rest of the vehicle. If the large one (starter) is affected, then everything will work right, except for that the starter will not turn when the key is switched to start. If the other is affected, then the rest of the vehicle will not get power. The starter may or may not turn, but there will be no ignition, fuel pump or injector pulses. This is my first choice when there is a "engine will crank but will not start", or "engine will not crank, but all accessories operate". KenG

Reply to
KENG

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