Suburban question

I am looking for a suburban and I hope I will get some advice in this group to narrow down the exact model etc.

I am looking for an older car, from the 80s. It should be reliable and as economical as possible. I try to stay away from the complexities of later computer laden models, and I am not interested in the largest engine versions which guzzle gas faster than I can buy it.

All other aspects are not so important, it should have 4 wheel drive and space for 7 people.

Who has some advice and guidance?

Uwe in Maine

Reply to
Jaggy Taggy
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'84-'86 were carbureted and had the better early version of the 4spd auto. '88-'91 were TBI which got a little better MPG. All were solid axle/leaf spring front suspension. With front bench and 3rd row seat they would haul 9 in relative comfort. with front buckets, 8. In either form, there was a good bit of room behind the 3rd row seat. If you plan to do any med or better towing go for the 3/4T which would hurt MPG a bit. For light-med towing and/or a driver the 1/2T would do fine. For some reason the stronger 12bolt rear was dropped for the barely-enough-for-a-passenger-car

10bolt. I have 12bolts swapped into my '85 and '88 Suburbans and plan to put HD 3/4T axles into my '88. I'm sure there are a few 305 powered Suburbans, but I would NEVER want a 305 in anything. I had one and was disgusted with it. Little power and poor economy even in a Blazer which is over 1500lbs lighter than a Suburban. A 350 is the minimum to run.

Reply to
Shades

The suburban was only offered in the 350, 454 and 6.2 diesel (in the 70's it was offered with a 400). If I were you get a 90 or a 91 they are old enough to find for a good price, new enough to find parts and new enough that you can ask for help when a problem pops up. Just be sure to get the barn doors (no tailgate) because the rear floor cross member rusts out and the tailgate will not open (or close) after a while. Also look at the rear wheel wells they rust open and the owners just ignore them. The front wheel wells also rust out but only cost $37 to get new wells so they are not a concern. I looked at a 90 with a 454 for $3k and the rear wells had holes large enough to put your fist through...was a shame the rest of the truck was spotless. Therefore, pre-91 700R4 trans, post-91 4L60E for half ton and 4L80E for the

3/4 ton, the engine are the same. Pre-91 mechanical speedo, post 91 electronic... Try to find something with no more then 100k if it is your primary vehicle or travel truck, try to find something less then 150k if you are just driving the kids to practice or you to work. If the wife is driving it then get a suburban less then a few years old (the first time it breaks down you will never hear the end of it). We have a 96 at school that is basically the same drive train as the 91 but a newer body style so that would be a better choice if you don't want a truck to play with...and you probably can pick up a 96-97 for less then 10k. My 91 gets about 13-14 mpg the 96 at school gets 15-16 so anything with a throttle body and the old style rotating distributor should be able to be repaired at home with a little talent. I would not bother with anything less then the 90's because there just is going to be too much rust. However, I bet you could go into the late 90's and still meet you criteria. I would also try to stay with a 3/4ton truck. They were a little more heavy duty and (environmentalists stop reading here) are allowed a little more leeway with the emissions.

You could also pick up a late 90's with a 6.5 diesel but they are a premium so if you find one grab it! They are easy to work on, will run for ever and get good gas mileage.

good luck, mark

Reply to
r_d

'91 was the same as the 90 and older body style. There wasn't a 4L80 available in the '91 and older Sub' 3/4T. It was the TH700 or TH400.

'92 was the first year for the IFS Suburbans!

Reply to
Shades

If I am right

88-95 used the K Code 350 with minimal differences (if any) and transmissions as above.

I would look for a Burb in those years as 96 and newer used the Vortec

350 which seems to be more troublesome.

91 and back like to rust (I am in the process of repairing all the swiss cheese on my 89)

If you want the older body style, I would look for an 88-91, make sure you check for rust, fender flares and trim is an easy way to hide the rust that likes to form around the rear wheel wells, so check for rust thouroughly.

Figure out the seating arrangement you want, then get front and rear a/c and heat so 7 people can ride in comfort all year long.

Just my 2 cents.

Reply to
tekguy4

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