Daniel

Suit yourself. I've owned a total of four and maintained a total of six of your exact vehicle. I guess you're right, though, I must not know what I'm talking about.

I guess you're right. That whole thing about how your noise is caused by the engine mount, and there being an exact procedure for centering the engine to correct this noise, and the procedure being contained on pages

9-12 to 9-13 of the factory serbive manual under "ENGINE MOUNTS", with further information about solving this noise contained in Technical Service Bulletin number 090192? All that stuff? Just forget it. It was all a stupid joke.

I guess you must be right, I can't answer it.

That is exactly what you asked.

That is exactly what you got. (Though, remember, it was all a big made-up joke.)

Good thing it costs $0.00, then.

Yeah, because lamely answering "I didn't think the same people would answer the question when I asked this time" is being all respectful 'n' stuff.

Well, gosh, darn, you caught me. I guess the jig is up and I can no longer post accurate and precise information in response to anybody's questions, complete with references to factory documentation, because Mr. D has figured me out. Shee-yoot, now I'm all sad and mopey. :-( :-(

Here's a link that will give you an *idea* what is involved,, not exactly the same but close... courtesy of Paul Smith and whatever manual he pirated for the pics..

The job is charged 2 hours in Chicago (~125/hr here) and the part is about $70 so it's about $300 to have it done here.

My *free* advice is if you are going to do it yourself ,, take it to a local rebuilder and have them rebuild it for you.. I for one have had terrible results from the chains (Peps, Murrays, and Autozone) dunno about NAPA none close to me,, they just don't hold up..Although if you go to poops and have it done, they may have an extended warranty on it if you don't mind going back again and again.

I had 4 of those cars over the years,, 3 Acclaims and 1 Spirit,, all 4cyls,, and put almost a million miles on them..and they all had that noise.. These are just absolutely awesome vehicles,, In all those miles,, NEVER left me stranded once.. Fix it until the body falls off. Repad the seats,, overhaul engines, trans,, whatever..!! Believe me ,, once you get *spoiled* by the cheap operation of this vehicle,, you will be spoiled forever..

Um, okay. Just to refresh your memory, part of your original post stated exactly this:

"but does anybody know if the drive shaft or anything else will have to be replaced? How much labor do you think I would be looking at for a job like this and would this be something that I could do myself."

Gee wiz, D, sounds like you are asking for a diagnosis to me. How else could the above statement be interpreted?

You obviously do not read any of the VERY helpful info that Dan REGULARLY gives on this newsgroup. I can't blame him for making a mockery of very stupid questions/responses/replys/reposts.

I read the OP differntly. He has a car with a ripped boot. He asked if anything other than the boot needed to be replaced. The car also makes a noise.

The answer to his question? Very simple. It depends. On what? How long has the boot been ripped? Has the grease either left the joint or been contaminated with dirt and/or water? If so, has the joint beed worn/damaged? If so, the joint needs replacing. If not, it needs dissassembling and cleaning and repacking. If during the dissassembly, cleaning and repacking, it is determined the joint has been damaged, it requires replacement.

If after the joint has been addressed, the noise remains, THEN it is time to look farther and determine :

1) if the noise is abnormal 2) if the noise indicates something serious 3) what is causing the noise.

THEN the issue of how to correct it can be answered.

As for the inner joint boots ripping on Chrysler front wheel drive vehicles, it is a common occurence - even when the engine mounts are good and properly adjusted - and it can happen on either side.

Another reason for "preventative" maintenance. When the car is on the hoist for an oil change, things like axle boots are readily checked and you KNOW they have been damaged for less than 3 months when they are discovered - ASSUMING you are either doing the maintenance yourself and know what you are doing, or you have a real mechanic, not a lube shop droid doing the maintenance.

In most cases, a joint that has had a cracked boot for less than 3 months can be put back in service with a clean/lube/replace boot.

In MOST cases, one that has been open for 4 or more months has suffered damage requiring replacement. Not to say a joint cannot get enough water and dirt into it in a week to do damage, or that a joint can NOT go six months without being damaged - but the odds are against both.

You know watching Dan Stern post over the years in everything from bobistheoilman.com forums to the Shelby Dodge forums, one thing is clear: The guy knows what he's talking about. He comes off as cynical sometimes but there's always at least a valid suggestion for the presented problem, especially when it comes to automotive lighting, but in general technical areas as well. I'd cut him some slack and brush it off if you don't like what you're being told.