Well DUH!! (That's sarcasm aimed at myself - not at you.) That would explain it (LED draws less than 10mA - probably under 5mA - for dim lighting).
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
Greg acknowledged that and realizes that replacing the switch is not necessary, but he's doing it anyway.
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
That puzzled me until I read your later post.
This appears to be the sum of the matter: (1) The connector comes vented from the factory on all except the '98/'99 2.7L. (2) All 3.2/3.5 regardless of year come from the factory already vented. (3) The TSB (removing the rubber seal from the 2nd (unused) connector wire hole and replacing with a regular wire and terminal to act as a vent) only applies to the '98/'99 2.7. (4) The vent wire added according to the TSB is the same as what comes from the factory on the 3.2.
Is that correct?
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
Hi...
Hold on a minute before you sarcasize (what? :) yourself, Bill.
I'd respectfully suggest a second opinion, or another examination to insure that it really is a led first.
It's very difficult to make a led glow dimly. Once it reaches breakdown and triggers, it's on sufficiently bright that I doubt the OP would call it dim.
It can be dimmed a little by first triggering it, and then reducing the voltage a little, but first must be bright for at least a millisecond, but it's real hard to hold it there.
Take care.
Ken
It does not apply to the 2000 and newer model Because the issue was fixed after and vents were built into the connector. But if the vent get stoped up the problem could still occur on all years
It is the same set up and the problem occurs on all applications including the 4 cylinders, 3.3 and 3.8 6cly engine
The TSB adds a terminal/wire vent to the connector on the effected years. (I always remove the seal from the connector)
He's talking about the rubber seal that blocks the unused wire hole built into the connector.
Hmmm - that's not the way LED's work. LED's can be made to be as bright or as dim as you want them as long as they are seeing their forward conduction voltage - you can vary brightness with a variable resistor, adjusting it back and forth in a continuum of brightness with no hysteresis - a potentiometer something on the order of 10k ohm configured as a variable resistor would illustrate this. They don't experience breakdown with huge hysteresis like a flash lamp or neon bulb where it takes more voltage to start it (initial ionization potential) than it does to maintain it. A relatively high resistance drain to ground would do it.
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
Update II: A few weeks ago I changed the oil and inspected the oil pressure switch. I noticed that there was nothing protecting the wire near the switch. The wire descends to the switch encased in a plastic flexible hose-like conduit. About 4 inches from the sensor, the conduit ends and the (insulated) wire is exposed all the way to where it enters the end of the switch. In other words there is no outer wrapping for the wire near the pressure switch. Is that normal? I wrapped the wire near the switch with electric tape as best I could and so far the light has remained off..... Thanks!
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.