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Fuel Line Replacement

I have an '89 New Yorker with a 3.0, 6-cyl. that has a strong fuel odor. Upon investigation, I noticed a small leak at the fuel inlet, where the fuel line comes up the left side of the engine and it connect to a piece of rubber fuel line and continues to the fuel rail.

My problem is... I know I need to replace the rubber fuel line and clamps *BUT* the inlet of the fuel rails are really corroded where the rubber line connects to it. Would it be O.K., if I cut the corroded part out and use A compression fitting and a piece of steel fuel line to repair it?

Also, When I disconnect the fuel line, will I be sprayed with fuel?

TIA, Jesse

Reply to
Jesse
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Personally, I wouldn't. If it's really that corroded, replace the fuel rail and pressure regulator. Bandaid fixes like that always seem to cause trouble later on. I wouldn't concern myself if it was just minor surface corrosion, by the way.

Get a good rail out of the junkyard if money's tight. There's *lots* of

3.0s in the junkyard.

Well....it depends on how bad your leak is. The system may leak down to atmospheric pressure, it may not. If the system was like new, then the answer would be, yes, you could expect bad things to happen.

You should definitely follow the procedure to depressurize the fuel system just to be on the safe side. And even when it's depressurized, you need to wrap the connection in rags, or take some other measure to catch liquid when you take it apart, because fuel will dribble out of the lines and rail.

--Geoff

Reply to
Geoff

I'm not familiar with the particular vehicle, but generally you depressurize by pulling a fuse or relay that powers the fuel pump and start the engine and let it run until it runs out of gas. Then you do the rag thing as Geoff suggests as a precaution.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Reply to
Bill Putney
['89 3.0]

Be absolutely certain you use EFI hose and the correct clamps. If the hose does not say "30R9" on it, it is not acceptable. The lesser grades (30R5,

30R6, 30R7, 30R8) are not rated for the pressures involved in your EFI system. The correct clamps are completely smooth inside, and the edges are rolled. Standard worm-drive clamps aren't acceptable.

(As usual, of course, idiot "Nomen Nescio" has chimed in with baseless claims of "improper engineering". Ignore him.)

Depending on the extent of the corrosion, you'll either need to clean it thoroughly to remove the corrosion, or replace the fuel rail.

No.

It's essential to depressurize the fuel system prior to working on it so this does not happen.

DS

Reply to
Daniel J Stern

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