Minivan Ignition oOck Cylinder

We have a 1999 Chrysler Town & Country Minivan with about 54K miles. When it was about two years old we had a problem with the ignition lock that stranded my wife and required a tow to the dealer. The problem was fixed under warranty and at the time the dealer said it was a freak thing and said it was unlikely to reoccur.

Well, its 2+ years later and guess what, the van is stuck in my garage and the key won't turn no matter how much I have tried to jiggle the lock, played with the steering wheel lock, and the gear shifter. I have never had the wheel or the ignition area open before and would appreciate any advice I can get before I attempt to look at it tomorrow.

Symptoms: Ignition car slides easily into lock and the ring light goes on and off when the key is removed. Key WILL move to the "alternator" position and the radio and when this is done the dash controls illuminate normally. No matter how hard I try, the key just will not turn forward. It almost feels like I have the wrong key... When my wife had this problem, I expected it was the wheel lock had been cocked and was exerting force holding the lock from turning. I immediately checked the wheel and it turned freely about a half turn in either direction. I continued to turn it to the right and the wheel locked as it should do, but the key still did not budge. I've sprayed some WD-40 down the key hole, but again no luck.

Any ideas? I'd like to take a shot at this myself since towing will be a b**** this time around since the vehicle has the transmission and wheel locked and is in the garage so can't be accessed from the front easily.

Thanks in advance for all ideas and Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman
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Call around there are guys (at least in this city there are) that specialize in this kind of thing and will come to your house, driveway, parking lot, etc. and take apart the steering column to fix the lock. Without a factory service manual and the right tools, forget it.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

Ted,

Thanks for the suggestion. I found the paperwork from last time around when this was done under warranty. Seems the dealer replaced the ignition lock cylinder (#5003843AB) and the steering column housing (#4690523). There are no parts prices or labor shown on the invoice since this was done under warranty.

I was surprised to see the housing was replaced and this tells me that they must have broken this part to get to the cylinder. If anyone has the FSM and could offer instructions on getting the lock cylinder out it would be very much appreciated. I plan to take a look at it this afternoon since we need the vehicle running ASAP.

I will also call around per your suggestion to local locksmiths and also see what the dealer suggests to see if I can figure out my alternatives.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Removed the negative battery cable (to be safe), then removed the covers upper and lower plastic housing covers (three Phillips screws then easily unsnapped) and then removed the key illumination ring (two simple pry tabs, did not need to remove the connector). At this point tried to get the cylinder out by depressing the push tab, but it would not come out.

Called the local dealer parts department and asked about the replacement cylinder (provide VIN and price of part was $118 programmed to vehicle). They said that the key needed to be in the "on" position to get the cylinder out. They recommended using a hammer to tap on the key while using appropriate force to get the key to turn. I did this and also pushed slightly on the wheel to free the steering wheel lock. It took a bit of force, but eventually turned and the lock came out easily.

I then tried the lock out of the vehicle and it seemed to be working perfectly so I oiled it well and then re-installed without replacing. It seems to be working well, so we will wait and see. At least now I know if it does get stuck again how to get it freed up and then replace it.

I am sharing what I learned here so others can benefit if they experience the same problem.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Reply to
damnnickname

Hey, see my post about a 2001 T&C with a key that wouldn't turn. We're having to have the key cylinder replaced,and it's not cheap.

ajw

Reply to
tony

AJW,

Yes, I saw your post and can recall a couple of others over the many years I've read this newsgroup. (Based on the lack of postings, I don't think this has been a major defect in this or any other Chrysler vehicle...) Truth of the matter is that it was the second time we've had trouble with the lock cylinder. First time was under warranty and there was no cost to us, although it was a terrible inconvenience to lose the vehicle and have to get it towed to the dealer. (Fortunately we were close to home.) This time around I took the cylinder out myself and once it was removed was unable to see a problem. (It seemed to turn fine once I used the hammer and some restrained force.) I oiled and cleaned it and then re-assembled and its been working fine for the last several days. I have no idea what caused it to freeze up, but suspect a burr of some kind in the mechanism. In any event, the part was $117 at the dealer and I avoided that expense (at least for now.)

This is why I posted my experience. I wanted to make sure that if any one else had this problem they benefited from my learning. I also wanted to make sure the problems were documented here for anyone doing a search to determine if there is a quality problem with this part.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

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