Polish for plastic lights

Oct 12, 2007 42 Replies

Actually, you'd want the clear to be applied to as smooth a surface as possible. Underlying scratches get magnified (or at least to the eye they appear more exaggerated) by clear coat. The clear should adhere just fine to a glass smooth surface. The difference here between what a polish does and what clear does is that the polish fills the fine scratches with an opaque substance that hides them. Over time it washes out and the scratches seem to re-appear. With clear, you'd fill them with a clear substance which would hold up to washes and wear much longer, but would show those scratches. You can see this in re-paints on cars often. If the primer was not sanded with a fine enough paper, or if it was used as a filling primer and subsequently shrinks some, you'll see scratches in the underlying primer, through the clear coat.

A friend told me he found some stuff at Wal-Mart and did the lenses on his Voyager. Worked well, but took a LONG time. He said he pulled the light off and spent a whole night of TV just rubbing away. But they came out pretty darn good.

Anyway, I found this stuff called PlastX at Wal-Mart and I'm going to give it a try. Probably on the Intrepid first, since that's the worst of the two cars. In reading the bottle it says there's an 'oil' in the stuff that soaks in as well as a polishing agent.

If any of you have a marine/boat store around, try using '210 Plastic Polisher' There is a paste, '210 plus' for the deep scratches and the spray to polish it. Stuff is fantastic and a little goes a long way. Headlights get it bad here in Florida

b

I've had pretty good success with the PlastX on my 2000 Intrepid headlights, which were getting fairly cloudy. You'll need to apply it every couple of weeks, but it did make a difference.

YMMV, or course.

After seeing this I had to Google AIRCRAFT SUPPLY. I have never seen or heard of an AIRCRAFT SUPPLY store and the web site only shows on line shopping.

I'll second that. Styling has destroyed good low cost lighting.

There is no such thing as good and low cost. See Walmart for example.

HID's aren't cheap but they are far superior to anything else.

Except HIR bulbs have a good performance to cost ratio (apporaching HID performance for fraction of cost).

Small town of 6,000 has a air port but no store.

Stop by and ask one of the pilots where they buy their supplies.

Why not just order from "Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Supply"?

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Results: 4 for plastic polish

  1. Novus Plastic Polish #1 Novus Plastic Polish #1 gently cleans all plastics without scratching & leaves a lustrous shine that resists fogging, repels dust, and eliminates static. Leaves a shield that resists fingerprin......
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    2. Novus Plastic Polish #2 Novus Plastic Polish #2 removes fine scratches, haziness, and abrasions from most plastics. With repeated use, it'll restore faded & discolored plastics. Contains mild abrasiv- es, but is non-t......
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    3. Novus Plastic Polish #3 Novus No. 3 removes heavy scratches and abrasions from most acrylic surfaces. This is an aggressive polish and is not intended for use on coated plastics or polycarbonates. Requires both Novus ......
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    4. Meguiars Plastic Cleaner #17 Safely removes fine "hairline" scratches and grime from clear plastic windows and windshields, acrylic and polycarbonate surfaces. Follow with an application of Plastic Polish (No. 10) to resto......
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From what I can tell, Polish for plastic lights would be "Plastikowy Swiatlo"; not sure what you mean by that, though....

"Jeff A." a écrit dans le message de news: fgahi2$21mn$ snipped-for-privacy@ihnp4.ucsd.edu...

Try black No 1200 wetable sandpaper. That does miracles. L.G.R.

Toothpaste will work..

For very light hazing. Anything more than that, and it would take you many hours to get one headlight polished out. Sometimes sandpaper is literally necessary to get it done in anything close to reasonable time.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Mechanical buffing will tend to overheat and melt the plastic. Go by hand with a 1200 black emery paper wet. L.G.R.

Properly used, a buffer won't harm the plastic. It is a tool though that requires more than just pulling the trigger and laying it into the workpiece. For those not needing, nor wanting to master a buffer, those fairly cheap home quality buffers available at Sears, Wal-Mart, etc. do just fine. They don't spin fast enough to generate that much heat. You can indeed burn through clear coat with one, but you really have to stay on a point for a while to do so. They'd be fine for even the most inexperienced to use without damaging the lens.

"Mike Marlow" a écrit dans le message de news: e0119$4735bbea$6210799e$ snipped-for-privacy@ALLTEL.NET...

If you say so. L.G.R.

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