I want to remove and install the inline 6 cylinder motor on my 1966
Chevy II and 1974 Nova. I want to fix some oil leaks and clean up the
underhood area. I'm planning on buying a hoist with 2 ton capacity and
then a length of chain to connnect the hoist to the motor.
1. Is the use of the chain an ok idea?
2. Where do I connect the host to the motor?
3. Do I have to use a headbolt and if so do I then have to replace the
head gasket? Any other issues about using the headbolt?
4. Do I pull the motor alone or should I keep the motor, bell housing
and manual transmission together during the removal and install?
Any suggestions/recommendations regarding removing and installing the
motors would be appreciated.
I haven't hoisted an inline 6 but have V8 many times. A chain works great.
I've connected the chain to an intake manifold bolt - replaced it with a
You can pull the engine and tranny together or separate. Together usually
has problems trying to get the engine over the rad frame and the tranny
jams at the firewall. The engine/tranny has to tilt at quite an angle. You
can buy a hoist accessory that will allow you to keep the engine level or
Have you tried Inliners International at http://www.inliners.org? They
specialize in inline 6s - typically stovebolts like yours.
On most 250s you'll find a hook attached just forward and just behind
the valve cover. If the car has AC the front hook will be part of the
AC bracket. If not the hoisting hook will be just to the side of the
thermostat housing. Use a short 24-28" chain between the 2 hoisting
points and hook your hoist to this chain. Removing engine and trans as
a unit is no big deal if you remove the grill, radiator etc. first.
Otherwise you'll need to remove the hood and tilt the driveline while
lifting dangerously high.
On Thu, 01 Jun 2006 05:45:27 GMT, Eugene Blanchard
The six in my old '74 Nova had a pair of lifting rings on it. One bolted
to the head on the rear near the firewall and the other one was on the
front of the head.
Don't have to use a head bolt just bolt the chain to a couple of the
empty holes in the head.
You can pull everything together BUT it isn't light. Make sure you have
a place to put it.
"Charlie" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
Chain works fine, but I highly recommend an engine tilter, especially if
you're doing the combined engine/trans. If you scrounge around some
boneyards, you should be able to find some factory hoist loops - bolted to
the intake at opposite corners.
If you're pulling it with the trans, drop the driveshaft at the rear yoke
first, then pull the drive yoke out of the tailhousing. Pick up a plug for
the tranny tailshaft (or a spare splined yoke from a boneyard) or you'll end
up draining the trans all over the floor when the combo's tilted.
Check, double-check, then triple-check that all hoses, speedo cable, ground
straps, exhaust, wiring, tranny linkage, etc. are all disconnected before
undoing the engine and tranny mounts - nothing worse than getting the engine
up 3-4" and having it hang on something still connected. While you're
jacking it out, if you encounter any resistance, stop and check it out to
see what's hanging. I once saw a guy destroy a vintage shift linkage because
he just kept going.......
I agree with the other posts on double and triple checking all the hoses and
cables. I was hoisting my 2.3l out of my Ranger and one of the cables
snagged on the other side of the engine. I hoist a little and stop and
check all around as I was alone. But I still managed to pull a wire out of
a connector that snagged as I was lifting. Fortunately, because I was
taking my time, all I had to do was push it back in the connector.
Right down everything that you have disconnected in the order that you've
disconnected them. It makes a nice checklist when putting everything back
Chains are fine. My buddy and I have been using the same chain forever
on our project cars. Combined weight of your engine and trans is
probably around 600-800 pounds. Not sure how much the 6 weighs, but my
crate smallblock was 450 pounds and a TH350 is about 150-200 pounds when
full of fluid. I've never weighed a manual trans either...
Like the other guys said, find the factory lift points - they'll look
like a piece of bar stock with a 3/4" hole or something bolted to each
side of the engine. If not, you can use a headbolt, but I'd probably
use a bellhousing bolt and an accessory drive bolt instead.
If you want to pull the engine and trans together, you might need to
remove the hood to get enough clearance.
My biggest tip: Don't rush. Especially if it's the first time.
Disconnect everything, and then check again. On an old Nova like yours
there's not that much stuff to disconnect, but there's still lots - fuel
lines, shift linkages, etc.
Also, you'll need the car up in the air to disconnect the driveshaft and
stuff, but make sure it's not too high - or you might find the oil pan
doesn't want to clear the radiator.
It's also hard to have too many helpers for this. Even if they're just
an extra set of eyes.
Oh... and never stand on the cowl to guide the transmission out. My
buddy had to buy a new windshield for his Nova after putting his behind
All good advice... I might suggest pull the radiator out before removing the
engine, Since you have to remove the hoses anyway it's just a mater of a few
bolts, better than having to by a new radiator
Another tool which might be handy is one that allows you to lock the
angle of the motor as you lift it and also allows you to control the
angle as you lower it in. My mechanic has such a thing and it really
makes it easier to raise and lower the motor. Wherever you purchase the
engine hoist should also have this tool.
My mechanic often leaves the transmission in the car, supporting the
front of the bellhousing so its' angle stays constant when the motor is
You could use a headbolt to fasten the chain or one of the
exhaust/intake manifold studs.
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