Tyres

Conor, you're a total DH, you obviously know NOTHING about P6 rear callipers!

F*ck off Conor, you're either a troll or an out-and out-bodging tosser who knows f*ck all about this, what you suggest is the quickest way of wrecking the calliper! BTW I started working on these rear brakes when they had only just gone out of production - ie. we saw a lot of them on a daily bases.

That's common. Some want it to be hard on (ie you can't pull it up further) by 4 clicks or whatever and one in correct adjustment won't be. With enough force you can almost pull it up to the stop.

Indeed. What you must make sure is that the operating levers on the calipers are well and truly on their backstops with the handbrake off - not that it works by a random number of clicks. Otherwise the self adjustment won't work properly. If the MOT bloke objects, show him the workshop manual.

Sorry Dave, but after reading Conor's explanation it's clear to me that they could be brothers, in fact they could be identical twins...

I dunno - it's just conceivable that a G clamp with enough friction between its 'pad' and the piston could turn the piston. But I'm sceptical.

Quite. And if I'd adjusted it as tight as that I'd never have got the cable back on again.

Not sure about that, I don't want to risk breaking the cable and having to get back underneath again.

He was happy enough once I'd reduced the travel a bit and it's been behaving correctly for the few months since the test. He only retested it by driving across his forecourt, so I reckon he'd already found they were reading high enough anyway.

But a G clamp will exert a pushing force to that is likely to damage the ratchet mechanism as well as rotating the 'outer' piston, all the proper Rover tool does (and all that is required) is a turning motion [1] - what Conor is suggesting is like suggesting one can torque a bolt down using a sledge-hammer, sure the force applied force the two components together (akin to riveting...) but in doing so one is sure to damage the fixing. What I'm saying is, the G clamp will exert far more of a pushing force that it will a rotational force due to the pitch of the respective threads (pitch of G clamp thread vs. the thread of the adjuster)

Anyway, the only way one could get a G clamp onto a P6 rear calliper is to remove the unit first, rather suggests that Conor hasn't even seen the P6 rear brake assembly let alone worked on it...

Not the original P6 tool, the one I used was a Sykes Pickavant one which I think was for the Ford Granada Mk3 rear brakes. Brilliant it was.

Yup, I remember that...

I very much doubt that - the piston has to withstand the full force of the hydraulics. Unless you got it off centre and bent the steel lug that prevents it from turning in operation.

I know - which is why I'm sceptical. But without trying it...

I'm not that sure - with both pads removed it might swing far enough away from the disc to get some G-clamps in. But again I'm sceptical...

All I do know is the pukka Girling tool was a pain with the P6 - but easier to use on outboard ones.

The Rover one was in fact the Girling tool - and could well have been made by S-P. It's possible there was a better designed one but I've not seen it. The snag with the Girling one was it would fall off the piston all too readily - even although it was meant to lock in place. Which meant you had to hold it in place with one hand while trying to operate it with the other. Fine on the bench but not so with the restricted access on the P6 - and I always loosened the rear crossmember to drop the final drive unit a bit.

'We' always disconnected the read drive shafts and dropped the discs out as well as the pads that were being changed (of course in some cases the discs were in need of changed also...), this of course was done on a workshop ramp and with air ratchets etc. available so working conditions were a lot easier - it's fortunate that I've never had to grovel under any P6, I do have sympathy for those who have had to though!

But remember that you are also turning the piston, I've heard of crunched and bent ratchets (that is, on a previously working calliper that then stopped after a pad change), also the braking force on rear brakes are not great - which is another reason why rear cylinders / callipers have more of a tendency to seize.

From what I remember, no there won't be, even with the disc removed, at minimum it would need either a very small G clamp or the calliper un-shipped from it's carrier on the FD unit.

It's a lot more than you'd get out of a small G-clamp.

Yes but it's in the other direction, the hydraulic action works *with* the ratchet, the G-clamp is working *against* the ratchet (see below) - at best the ratchet has been designed to resist the force applied by the parking brake or a warped disc, a G-clamp can easily exceed either...

Hydraulic force Ratchet 'thread' ====>>>l/l/l/l/l/l/l/l/l/l/l piston direction _/ ratchet X Fixed point

G-clamp force Ratchet 'thread'

'Prace bets now!'

;-)

I can only go on my experience on the 2000TC I owned. And it works just as well on the Rover 600's as well.

How does it wreck the caliper, dumbass? You can't apply enough pressure to f*ck the thread.

I didn't have the tool, I needed to wind in the caliper, so I tried it=20 and it worked. Simple as. After all, there was nothing to lose by=20 trying.

I take it you, Steve and Jerry are the kind of f*****ts who don't know=20 the meaning of the word "ingenuity" and that if it says you must use=20 Tool BL1234, you can't do it if you don't have it.

Narrow minded people with a complete inability to think laterally.

--=20 Conor

I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't=20 looking good either. - Scott Adams

Erm, but a G-Clamp can, and quite often would, damage the face of the piston as it would be able to rotate on the face of it without actually turning the piston - because they don't have the 'pins' to lock onto the piston as proper tools do.

There's ingenuity and there's bodging.

Using a G-Clamp on a piston that needs winding back, rather than just pushing back falls into the latter category.